LS Engine install in a 64-66 Chevy truck

[Clyde65]

Anyone doing this? I am and would like to know more about your builds!

[gostranger]

i am currently doing one when i get pictures i will post some

[lownslw64]

I am also doing one. ls1/4l60e in a 1964 swb fleet. I am running the dropmember with mine.

[shortbed70]

lownslw64 Nice truck more specs\pics please?

[lownslw64]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

lownslw64 Nice truck more specs\pics please?

my motor is out of a 02 camaro ss 35th anniv with 38,000 miles and i am running sanderson headers(part#cs-ls1). i pulled the front of the motor off because the stock alt and a/c comp. hit my rack and both side frame rails. I didn't want to notch the rails so i am saving up to buy the billet specialties top mount tru trac system. The motor isn't in the truck yet, hoping to install it in the next week or so. As soon it is installed i wil post some pics. I will have to notch the firewall for clearance of the back of the heads and i will probably have to modify the trans tunnel for clearance also.

[Captainfab]

Here's a thread by TR65 that should answer one of your questions......
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=300335

[JRBECK64]

Originally Posted by lownslw64

my motor is out of a 02 camaro ss 35th anniv with 38,000 miles and i am running sanderson headers(part#cs-ls1). i pulled the front of the motor off because the stock alt and a/c comp. hit my rack and both side frame rails. I didn't want to notch the rails so i am saving up to buy the billet specialties top mount tru trac system. The motor isn't in the truck yet, hoping to install it in the next week or so. As soon it is installed i wil post some pics. I will have to notch the firewall for clearance of the back of the heads and i will probably have to modify the trans tunnel for clearance also.

lownslw64,
Is there a kit for the crossmember needed to install the LS1? Or did you use the front end pieces from the camero to install in your truck? Thanks for the info, I am about to start My 1956 Bigwindow Short Step and I am thinking about putting a 6.0 Liter with a Kenny Bell Super Charger in that. I have been starting to gather info and this is really helpful.

Thanks,

JRBECK64

[Slow Build]

Check out his build thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=367652
Engine going in soon.

[TR65]

Hey Guys,

Here is mine sittin in her. It is a 6.0L LS2 from a 2005 SSR with T56. It took a long time to get it positioned correctly: centered, square, height, front to rear angle, fore/aft position, and level. I think I have it correct. I mounted it 1" forward of the original 283 for more room at the back of the engine. It is about 1/2" higher than the original for oil pan clearance with a 4 degree front to rear angle. I used the original factory hydraulic engine mounts that I connected directly to the front cross member and are out of the way of everything. I fabbed a new transmission cross member and re-designed the e-brake gimickus. The stock exhaust manifolds with cats and y-pipe all connect without interference as does the stock AC compressor. I had to change the PS pump though.

I will start a thread soon with the details.

TR

[lownslw64]

Originally Posted by TR65

Hey Guys,

Here is mine sittin in her. It is a 6.0L LS2 from a 2005 SSR with T56. It took a long time to get it positioned correctly: centered, square, height, front to rear angle, fore/aft position, and level. I think I have it correct. I mounted it 1" forward of the original 283 for more room at the back of the engine. It is about 1/2" higher than the original for oil pan clearance with a 4 degree front to rear angle. I used the original factory hydraulic engine mounts that I connected directly to the front cross member and are out of the way of everything. I fabbed a new transmission cross member and re-designed the e-brake gimickus. The stock exhaust manifolds with cats and y-pipe all connect without interference as does the stock AC compressor. I had to change the PS pump though.

I will start a thread soon with the details.


TR

why the 4 degree angle? is that what is required or is that just what you needed for your application. can you explain?

[tommys66]

Here is mine, Its a 5.3 with 4L60E. I set mine at zero degrees in reference to the frame, but I am running a 9" rearend.

[TR65]

Hey Lowns,

Engines are designed to sit at an angle of about 3-4 degrees sloping down from front to back. Intake manifolds are machined at that angle the other way so the carbs sit level. On my engine the cover brackets are made at 4 degrees the other way so that the engine looks level in the car. I think the main issue is to get the drive line angles correct. Typically the differential is also mounted with nose up 3-4 degrees (although my truck was set at 6 degrees). When the drive shaft is installed then the "working angle" of the universal joints (that is the angle between the transmission tailshaft and the driveshaft, and the angle between the differential output and the driveshaft) is equal to within 1/2 degree, greater than 1 degree and less than 3 degrees. That way the universal joint forces, front and rear cancel each other and are not large in any case. So why not run a straight shot between the engine and differential? Then the universals don't "work" (the needles in the universals don't roll) and the needle bearings "brinell" on the race and wear out.

Here is a good link on all that. More than you wanted to know probably. I don't want drive line vibrations messing up my ride.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

TR

[Frizzle Fry]

You want the diff nose down static. That is so that when you accelerate it will come up and move toward zero degrees. If you start off nose up the pinion angle will increase under load. Here's a good read on it.

[TR65]

Mike,

No doubt that is what you want in a race / drag car.

Most highway vehicles will spend almost zero time twisting the diff significantly, particularly with the trailing arm suspension on these trucks.

The point is well taken though. It doesn't matter whether the diff is nose up or nose down as long as the working angles of the universals is correct (front and rear close to equal, at least 1 degree and less than 3 degrees)

Stock set-ups are typically engine tail down, diff nose up to get the universal working angles correct. I think the trucks use a higher nose up angle to allow for loads in the bed which will shift the working angle towards a smaller number.

Here is a neat tool for measuring pinion and drive line angles. I calibrate mine using a good level.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95998

TR

[Thealien]

Looks good guys, I'm loving all these LS swaps.

[tomlamb]

Here is my build with a 2008 gen IV 5.3 motor

[65Custom]

I'm planning on putting in a LS motor and I was looking the pics of the motor mounts, I see your using the original frame mounts, but the Rubber mount to the engine looks like it was made for that mount, So are the are those something you purchased or is that something you fabed up?

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I'm planning on putting in a LS motor and I was looking the pics of the motor mounts, I see your using the original frame mounts, but the Rubber mount to the engine looks like it was made for that mount, So are the are those something you purchased or is that something you fabed up?

Mine were fabed so that I could use the original 2008 motor mount... I think RRC may still have the template to make another one if you want me to ask them.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by tomlamb

Mine were fabed so that I could use the original 2008 motor mount... I think RRC may still have the template to make another one if you want me to ask them.

I'm a little confused the motor mount was fabbed or was it the frame mount? Either way it looks great and the frame mounts look original to me barring me looking at one for comparison.

Also how is the clearance to the fire wall I would think you could set it back more with a LS style engine.

And yes once I get a engine (hopefully soon) I might hit you up to find out how to get a set.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I'm a little confused the motor mount was fabbed or was it the frame mount? Either way it looks great and the frame mounts look original to me barring me looking at one for comparison.

Also how is the clearance to the fire wall I would think you could set it back more with a LS style engine.

Just the frame section, the motor mount is the stock 08 part.

The engine sits a little forward of what might be ideal but at this point in my build I'll take it as it could only go an inch back or so.

[Fleetside65]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I'm planning on putting in a LS motor and I was looking the pics of the motor mounts, I see your using the original frame mounts, but the Rubber mount to the engine looks like it was made for that mount, So are the are those something you purchased or is that something you fabed up?

these allow you to bolt your stock motor mounts up to the LSX motors....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4572/

here is my LQ4 getting a test fit with the 65 cross member/motor mounts, will probably be swapping the front sub frame/cross member out for an 87.....

[Clyde65]

If you use the tubular motor perches from CPP, the trans crossmember from CPP, you will need to cut the top of the frame about an inch so ( right at the perch mounting holes) the CPP perches will fit properly( two rear holes on frame), this is how the 68-72 truck are done, since they could get a big block. this puts the motor about perfect, easily install electric fan and have room to put you hand behind the intake/engine at the firewall. The trans mount will bolt up to one of the factory frame holes on each side.

You can get the adapter for your LS engine at transdapt or CPP sells them too. I would suggest for you to go ahead and get all the frame work and mounts done first, put the adapterplates on the engine with the bolt style car motor mounts, slide the engine in leaving the perches a little loose until the trans cross member is right, then lock it all down.

I would also suggest you look at ebay for an ls engine harness, this is about 400.00, but it is all new, also you can get the pcm returned at Wait4me performance, this is all because I just did it and made mistakes and spent way too much money on stuff that didnt work or there was a better way to do it.

I hope this helps....

Clyde65

[rafman66c10]

Hi,

Im about to install a 2000, 5.3 ltre Vortec engine into my 1966 Chevy Truck, half ton. Im planning on keeping my 200r4 transmission while ditching the 283 engine currently in place.

What do I need to make this fit and work?

Will I need a torque converter spacer to mate the LS with my 200R4?

Can I run headers without clearance issues? (i dont want to cut into my frame)

Do I really have to pull the pens out of the ecm? Why cant I just cut the wires?

My LS has the cable driven throttle body, do ineed a geometrical bracket to run my stock trans tv cable?

Thanks,
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[sdwolff98]

To answer your questions:

You need adapter plates to mate to the stock engine frame mounts fairly easy to get everybody and there brother are making em now.

You may need a spacer plate for that trans am not sure. Call bowtie overdirves he can tell you.

The tv cable also contact bowtie he has some kits I believe for adapting to the 200r4.

Yes depinning the harness is a much better way than cutting and soldering especially the reference wires off the sensors. The solder adds resistance to the sensor wires and can mess up the engine computer while running. the power wires and grounds you can cut and solder without any truubles. Are you planning to tackle your own rewiring? If so go to lt1swap.com he has pinouts for most of the cars and trucks systems and even gives a run down on what to keep and not to keep also rigging up relays for the setup as well.
to d pin the harness a couple of jewelers or eyeglass style flat blades work excellent for opening up the pins without damaging things that is how I did a new factory harness on my truck at home. Waiting to get engine reflashed to stock for a running test of the harness.

Question on the headers are you going to run the engine stock or heavily modified? if stock grab a set of 2010 camaro l99 v 8 exhaust manifolds they clear the frame rails nicely. I am using them on my l92 64 gmc truck swap. Doug thorley makes a set of 67-87 headers for this swap also one of the other board members has used them with good results. Personally lol i like cheap the camaro manifolds for the pair cost me 70 bucks lol. I started trolling the camaro 5 forums looking for them as a last ditch factory effort in my truck and they work great. the have 2.5 inch outlets on them.

Sean

[rafman66c10]

Hi Sean and thanks for responding.

To answer your question yes I am going to modify the engine and put it in a cam with headers. Thanks for the advice of calling bow tie overdrive that worked out pretty good. I am planning to do my own wiring at home. I guess depinning is the best option. I have been looking at the "asp kicker" cam by vinci at vinci cams. I'm thinking I use more torque than anything else and I don't plan on driving over 5000 rpm ever. I just would like to know if I am stuck with using a certain brand of headers or if I can use any plain ol headers without having clearing issues in my truck.
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