S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Here's the finished motor mounts, and the final engine placement. Note the added height to clear the mechanical fuel pump. This build will need a small transmission tunnel.

[69l46vert]

Great info Skymangs! Thanks for taking the time to do it. It's going to make things a lot easier for someone like me who plans to go down this road.

[b.sharp]

I bought a '50 1 ton a couple weeks ago. I have been looking at everyones build of these trucks trying to figure out which way to go. I wanted to leave it stock, but it does nothing for me. These s-10 swaps are bad a$$ and I love the look. I was poking around a freinds last night a found a short bed frame,4cly,5sp for $200. I am know joining the swap team. This article is great. I don't think I would tackle this project without this board and these tech articles.

Thank you for such a great article. I am following every step of the way.

[skymangs]

Thanks guys.

Here's a tip for those who are using the old school 350... If your donor vehicle has a 4.3, you can swap all the accessory drive stuff, and run a serpentine belt. You will need to pull the crank pulley and water pump as well (reverse drive pump). Here's some pics, I just set up on a mid 70's 350 for a customer.

[skymangs]

Lets spend a little time on steering columns tonight. A lot of guys try to save a buck by re-using the stock S10 column. That works, but IMHO, they look like dookie... There's a lot of crap hanging below the column (pic 1), and keys belong in the dash on an old truck. But if that's what your build calls for, here's how I go about setting an S10 column up for a swap.

First I open the firewall hole about 2" more to the left (covered earlier). Then I make a poster board template (2 pieces) to fit over the column and match the angle of the toeboard/firewall. Trace it on sheetmetal, then cut it out. Next I make a small "drop bracket" for the column. I make the bracket so that it uses the same bolts as the pedal assembly to attach it. (pic 2 and 3)

Then I attach the drop bracket to the dash, and hold the column in position while I tack weld the backside. Once that's done, the lower bracket (to firewall) gets positioned and tacked. Then I pull the whole thing out, and seam the backsides so it doesn't show. (pic 4).

When it's all done, your drop bracket shouldn't even be visible. (pic 5)

[skymangs]

If I use the stock column, I make a cover for all the crap hanging below. Just 18ga. sheetmetal, I make a poster board template to get the fit right, then cut it in steel, bend, and weld to finish it.

[skymangs]

I think a lot better way to go is a brand new column from Gearhead Enterprises (Ebay). All the wiring is tucked into the column, and looks much cleaner installed. I've gotten them in plain steel and/or chrome, column shifted or not. All cost around $170-180 shipped. Installation is the same for them.

If you are using a column mounted shifter, the only shift rod I use is the Lokar one. It is pricy, but works better than anything else I've tried. It is adjustable, bendable, and uses double heim joints, so it will work with a LOT of mis-alignment.

Here's a pic installed

[Uncle Jimi]

Skymangs, Looks awesome, you sure make this look easy! I'm wondering what gauges are those in the 4th pic of post 60? Also, would you mind posting a link to the Gearhead steering column on ebay?

[skymangs]

Uncle Jimi: I don't recall the brand on the gauges, but they are common 3 3/8" aftermarkets. I can cover how to convert your stock gauge pods to hold aftermarkets later as well. The best look I've seen is 5" round gauges. They fit right inside the stock bezels, and look trick.

[skymangs]

Here's a link to an example column on ebay. I just want to be sure we all understand that I'm not endorsing any particular company, I'm just showing what I typically use. Correct length should be 32"... 30" will work, but you have to get a little creative on the firewall bracket.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLAIN-Steel-...49ab99&vxp=mtr

[skymangs]

Next on the list is gas pedal install. I make a pedestal for the S10 pedal. I do that so it has enough room for full travel, therefore gives you full throttle when it's near the floor. Once the pedestal is made, I position it, then tack weld it on the floor. Then I mark for my throttle cable hole in the firewall, drill it out to 3/8", and use a square file to "square the edges" so that the cable snaps in at the firewall.

[fine69]

Great stuff in this thread. I just bought a 49 Chevy panel. And was considering options for suspension. Can you tell me what is the best choice year wise for a donor S10 chassis?
Also do you sell the cab to frame mounts outright?

[skymangs]

Thank you, I like using 87-91 chassis, with a 4.3L and 700R4. pre-87 didn't have a 4.3, so the 700R4's from them won't bolt up to a small block. 92 they converted to VSS, with no mechanical speedo output. Send me a PM on brackets, I've made them for several folks, but I don't usually do it that way since the running boards and bed are kind of a fab as you go thing.

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thank you, I like using 87-91 chassis, with a 4.3L and 700R4. pre-87 didn't have a 4.3, so the 700R4's from them won't bolt up to a small block. 92 they converted to VSS, with no mechanical speedo output. Send me a PM on brackets, I've made them for several folks, but I don't usually do it that way since the running boards and bed are kind of a fab as you go thing.

So the only drawback on 92 and later is no mechanical speedo cable? So if you're using electronic gauges there's no issues? and the 700r4 will accept the 4.3 or the SBC/350?

[ratty 46]

Very informative & well thought out. I dig the fact that you've done this, at all, for the general garage build guy - like me.\

I've stayed away from these trucks before due to not feeling comfy about the swap. I'm feeling much better now.

My previous experience was in complete tube frame or back half round tube builds (cars). If you believe it I find it a bit EZ'r due to not having to work with constraints between a newer frame & an older body.

Again - I appreciate what you've done & will probably attempt this type build after my '64 Fairlane tube car hits the road.

Keep the updates coming.

[skymangs]

Uncle Jimi; I use the stock S10 holes on the pedal bracket. I drill new holes on the underside of the pickup dash to bolt the pedal assembly through. I also use the same bolts to secure my fabricated drop bracket. Grey and black truck has 17x8's front and rear. I think the tire size was 225/50R17 front and 255/50R17 rear.

Ratty46, thank you. I've done Camaro stubs and custom triangulated 4 links as well. These are just the mainstay of my projects. Easy to accomplish, in-expensive, quick turn around. and very popular.

[Uncle Jimi]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Uncle Jimi; I use the stock S10 holes on the pedal bracket. I drill new holes on the underside of the pickup dash to bolt the pedal assembly through. I also use the same bolts to secure my fabricated drop bracket. Grey and black truck has 17x8's front and rear. I think the tire size was 225/50R17 front and 255/50R17 rear.

Ratty46, thank you. I've done Camaro stubs and custom triangulated 4 links as well. These are just the mainstay of my projects. Easy to accomplish, in-expensive, quick turn around. and very popular.

I hate to clutter your thread, but... THANKS!

[skymangs]

Someone asked about cutting the inner fenders. First I cut at the bottom wind line, front to rear (pic 1). Then I hold each inner up against the cab, and mark the area for the upper A frame. Then I cut that area up to the second wind line. That's it, this will clear the frame and A frames with both versions of my brackets.

Once it's all fit, I'll take a flap disk, and clean up my wobbly plasma cut lines.

[skymangs]

Let's move on to running board brackets. I start with 1.5" 11ga. square tube. I cut the front bracket to 10 inches. the rear 2 are 9.5" long (see attached PDF)

Once the lower brackets are cut, measure 1/2" in, centered, mark for your hole. Then measure 4 3/8" and mark center. These will be the holes for your running boards. I drill all the way through with a 9/32" bit (pic 1), then open them up to 1/4". Finally I use a 1" holesaw on the bottom side for nut/socket clearance (pic 2). Pic 3 shows them bolted to the bottom of the running board

[skymangs]

Next I mock the running board up, bolting the rear to the fender, and blocking below my new lower brackets. It's important to be sure that your board is on the same plane as your cab floor and bed rail! Also, check the gap between the splash guard and the back of the cab. should be about 3/8". The running board should be parallel to the bottom of the door from front to rear as well.

Once it's mocked up, I verify my templates fit between the lower bracket and the frame (pic 2 is of the templates). If this is your first build, you'll have to make them. I used strips of 1.5" poster board, then notched the lower end, and angled the upper end to match my frame.

Once your templates are made, trace them onto 1.5" square tube, cut them out, and fit them to the mocked up running board. I tack the lower side, then pull the board off to seam weld the joint (pic 3). Then re-mock up your running board, double check all the critical fitment areas, and weld your angled brackets to the frame. Finished product should look like pic 4. I just finished running boards on this truck yesterday, it's about a 4 hour process.

I buy a 20ft stick of 11ga. 1.5" steel, it's just right for 2 49.5" bed cross sills, and has enough left to finish the running boards as well. Cheers!

[ratty 46]

Well I'll tell you skymangs ... you make it look EZ. I dig the in-expensive part the most.

I've got 1 more car to SFI to 7 seconds & then I'm all over this project!

Keep us updated PLEASE.

[dettmer13]

As far as exhaust and headers go, has anyone been able to use long tubes? I'd really like to use them. I've used the trans dapt motor mounts, and I'm using a 5.3L. I'm also looking at the block hugger Hooker headers as well. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

[skymangs]

Almost forgot... I don't buy those fancy bolt kits. Running boards go on with 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts, 1/4" washers, and nylock nuts (courtesy of Lowes).

[ratty 46]

If I can ask ... how many of these do you do each year?

[Uncle Jimi]

Looking good Skymangs. Where on the frame are you attaching the angled pieces? I thought most guys went parallel with the bottom of the frame, but looks like your shooting for about the middle?