No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[robnolimit]

More Shock Tech No, this shock is not mounted upside down. Time for shock history 101. Most shock knowledge is based on what we've seen in the past, and that's mostly working on mass production cars. Yes, the Big-3 (and all others) know that the ride quality and performance would be better if they reduced un-sprung weight by properly mounting the shocks, but, they are a few more factors at work. MONEY is #1. Simple hydrolic shocks are not built well enough to run 'upside down', they would cavitate, heat, froth, and then leak out all over the place. So, to save $$, in goes the budget shock. I once heard that GM paid less than $4.00 for basic tube shocks. Besides, Most drivers don't really care (sad, but true) about the shock quality that much, so, barely good enough is OK with them. But, not for use. "Good enough" isn't even gettin gup to the starting line. We want 'Better', 'Best'. 'Awesome',...... So, we start with a great shock and only go UP from there, and they mount the correct way, to reduce un-sprung weight. - Every little bit helps, and the details matter.

[robnolimit]

Sway Bars As we stated earlier, to get the truck to really grip the road, the low roll center and using the roll force to plant the tire is the key. But, we don't want to have excess body roll. The wide spaced spring stance shoule handle that just fine. But, some of you will want more. Rear sway bars are effective suspension tools that can be used to tune and custom tailor the ride to your liking. Our original design idea was to use a 'floating' bar and links, mounted to the chassis (again, reduction of un-sprung weight) and use links to connect to the trailing arms in a leveraged location. This will somewhat reduce to bars effectiveness, and allow the truck to 'settle in' to the corners with more tire grip. ** Every part of the design so far has been to 'free-up' the axles ability to 'tip' and settle the forces to the road, helping to keep both tires stuck to the road. We don't want to start binding it up now.

This truck had a bunch of parts all ready on it. One of those items was a Hotchkis Suspension floating sway bar. Not a bad design, and almost exactly where we had planned our bar location. - If you check out our rear bar for OE C10's, it's in the same area. So, for the sake of the customer, we decided to re-use the Hotchkis bar. The links were adjusted and it bolts to the trailing arm in the provided mount lugs. The Hotchkis Bar is 3/4" solid. Our plans call for a 1" x .120 wall bar. The twist rates are almost the same. To us, the larger bushing mount surface of the 1" bar is a plus.

*** We will report back on the driver feeling, bar vs. no bar ***

[robnolimit]

At this point all that was left was to put the truck back together. Exhaust, fuel tank and tires. Here's something I'd like to point out.
** We never removed the rear axle.
** The driveshaft was not pulled from the trans
** The brake lines were not disconnected
These things all add up to make the install easier and faster. Without compromising the ride quality or performance of the suspension system. Next week we will have picts with the bed on, the stance, and some road feedback.

[chevy_mike]

Very nice Rob. I am happy someone has taken the time to help explain how the trailing arms should work. It drives me nuts to see folks put poly bushings in the arms or used boxed arms without any type of flex joint up front. The stock I beam design was made to twist, to help with articulation. The rubber joints have some flex as well. When you take all of this factory designed stuff away, all you do is make the arms bind up, which people take for "better handling".

Thanks for helps to educate the masses. Looks like a great setup!

[Clndesl]

This kit is exactly what I was wanting. Wish you would have had it 6 months ago cause now I have a bunch of new stuff I need to sell to get this

[gringoloco]

What anti-sway bar works with this kit? Is it just the hotchkis blade style? Looks like your top mount *might* work. Looking forward to notch updates

[SCOTI]

Rob..... 2 questions for you:

1) Was there a reason you chose the sleeve mounting arrangement top & bottom vs a dbl shear bracket set-up?
2) What is the angle on the C/O's? I'm curious is it looks close to what my shocks have & I was worried about angles impacting their performance. Didn't know if its just as important w/the C/O arrangement.

[SCOTI]

Ttt . . ......

[Clndesl]

About how much will this lower the rear

[Andy4639]

Rob I notice the coil springs are located in front of the axle but the older kit I have they are behind the axle. Any reason for this, I know my 71 isn't a weekend racer but just thought I would ask.
I always thought the further out they where would help with the body roll.
Ha I went back and read the other post's after I read this last night at work.
Man I wish I could afford one of your whole system's for my truck!
A man has to have dreams I guess!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Rob I notice the coil springs are located in front of the axle but the older kit I have they are behind the axle. Any reason for this, I know my 71 isn't a weekend racer but just thought I would ask.
I always thought the further out they where would help with the body roll.
Ha I went back and read the other post's after I read this last night at work.
Man I wish I could afford one of your whole system's for my truck!
A man has to have dreams I guess!

Mostly yes, as far as shock spacing goes. Our FatBar and 3-Link have the shocks to the rear and outside. And, we did a coil-over kit for the OE trailing arms years ago (like 20) (that hurt to say) that was back and out. Our FatBar and 3-link use suspension geometry to get the trucks to work well and smooth out the ride. With the new trailing arm system, we were confined to some of the OE geometry, so we had to find other ways to smooth it out. So we used the leverage from the trailing arm in our new kit. And, believe it or not, we've learned a few things in twenty years. Our big goal here was to deliver on the promise of a true bolt-on suspension system that is reasonably priced (check the competitors offerings) and delivers actual performance and a better quality ride. Not as easy as it sounds, but I believe that we did it.

[Andy4639]

Thanks for taking the time on here to answer questions for us all.
Look forward to seeing you again in April.

[duallyjams]

I currently have your rear shock and panhard bar relocator with a 2" block and coil spring, would I be able to upgrade to this ?

[robnolimit]

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

[70inbville]

[QUOTE=robnolimit;7508257]The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.


Is this drop including the blocks or not? just checking before ordering parts I don't need. Thanks

[robnolimit]

[quote=70inbville;7519620]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.


Is this drop including the blocks or not? just checking before ordering parts I don't need. Thanks

Good question. let me clarify.

To get the long shock/travel/ride/performance, in a way, total drop was the sacrifice point. WITHOUT a block, just the kit, with the axle directly on the trailing arm, the drop amount is 4" - 5". And, we would like the shock to stay in it's sweet-spot for the best performance. Yes, you could screw down the shock, or run a shorter shock, but that kind-of defeats the purpose. So, if you want more drop, add a 1" (5" - 6" drop) or 2" (6" - 7" drop) block. Blocks and U-bolts are not included with the kit.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

Hey Rob,

Any pictures with the bed on?

[Clndesl]

Rob
Do you think I could install this on my freshly powder coated frame without messing it all up. I already got rid of the factory lanyard bracket before powder cause I was going to run your panhard.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Clndesl

Rob
Do you think I could install this on my freshly powder coated frame without messing it all up. I already got rid of the factory lanyard bracket before powder cause I was going to run your panhard.

no problems, just need to drill a few holes.

[dirtyjim]

very nice set up and pretty much exactly what I was looking for, i'll wait till the notches are available before ordering.
just a couple questions, is that tank one of yours or another vendors?
right now i'm running one of the old cpp rear coilover set ups and my main gripe with it is the lack of travel and having to run way to stiff of a spring because of it. the other was the coilovers are mounted to the rear and outside limiting exhaust options out the back with a rear mounted gas tank. yours will solve the exhaust problem, right now i'm dumped in front of the rear axle

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by dirtyjim

very nice set up and pretty much exactly what I was looking for, i'll wait till the notches are available before ordering.
just a couple questions, is that tank one of yours or another vendors?
right now i'm running one of the old cpp rear coilover set ups and my main gripe with it is the lack of travel and having to run way to stiff of a spring because of it. the other was the coilovers are mounted to the rear and outside limiting exhaust options out the back with a rear mounted gas tank. yours will solve the exhaust problem, right now i'm dumped in front of the rear axle

The tank is not ours. I think it is a Tanks unit. BTW, we saw all of the same problems with what is currently available. Quote from the project trucks owner "... not even the same truck ... smoother than my new Toyota..." OK, I'm not a Toyota owner, but I can tell you they are smooth riding. To say he is happy is an understatement.

[1leglance]

Thanks for the mention that your kit still allows 335's in the rear....

I really really like it...
My son is heading off to college for mech engineering & wants to do the race engineer thing...
this and your "make it handle" thread are full of great info that is helping us choose the bits to upgrade granddad's 72 C-10 that we are autocrossing.

watching your website to place an order soon

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 1leglance

Thanks for the mention that your kit still allows 335's in the rear....

I really really like it...
My son is heading off to college for mech engineering & wants to do the race engineer thing...
this and your "make it handle" thread are full of great info that is helping us choose the bits to upgrade granddad's 72 C-10 that we are autocrossing.

watching your website to place an order soon

Thanks, and good luck to your son.

[SMKN TA 95]

Will this rear setup work with any other trailing arm cross member (is bushing width different than factory) or does a stock one have to be used?

Are these kits in stock yet or still in the prototype stage?

Thanks!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

Will this rear setup work with any other trailing arm cross member (is bushing width different than factory) or does a stock one have to be used?

Are these kits in stock yet or still in the prototype stage?

Thanks!

Yes and No. The bushing width and bolt size is different that the OE bushing. We supply new front mounting brackets for the trailing arm bushing. If the crossmember you have has bolted on mounts, the new No Limit mounts could be easily swapped on (If the crossmember bolt pattern follows the OE it will be a direct swap, if not, more drilling, or welding) If the crossmember in question has welded mounts, they would need to be cut off, and the new bracket bolted or welded to it.

Yes, these are in full production and in stock. These kits ship within a few days of the order. All parts are powder coated in 'Magic Black' (20% gloss satin)