Rear tank conversion - need new pump?

[delosh]

67 with 283, all original. I want to install the Boyd's tank soon. Do I have to change the pump? Hoping to just extend or install new hard lines.

[AussieinNC]

I would look to at least replace the old fuel pump and all the rubber flex lines....

The original tank was located above the fuel pump level, aiding the fuel flow...the new tank will be level with or possibly below the fuel pump level so good pump function will be essential.

[Jrainman]

No issues ,if you look at any GM car from 67 with a 283 the tank location is in the rear low and they had no issues . I did this my self with a 327 but replaced the entire line with 3/8 fuel line size. my truck was a original 6 cylinder truck with 5/16 fuel line size ,So I would check what you have for line size first, if you are just going to do a splice in to the original fuel line.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I think the pump is fine as early pumps cross reference over to cars too, and they have a tank just like the one you intend to install.

I second or possible third the replace all the fuel lines. Use 3/8 fuel line so any future build will have enough fuel. Use steel line straight sections with unions. Much easier to get to tuck up tight vs trying to straighten coils. Aluminum works but bends or kinks easily. I have had bad luck with it personally.

While your under there. Consider running a second fuel line for a return. This way you can use a bypass regulator, and help eliminate vapor lock due to hot gas or days.

Don't run regular rubbery fuel line the whole way obviously. Fuel injected fuel line is ok if your under a big time crunch to get by for a week or two. Regular AN line let's out alot of gas smell, and you have to get the right type for gas.

[mattfranklin]

If the pump is relatively new and the internal rubber diaphragm and seals are good then you're fine. But changing the location may cause a sketchy one to fail.

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I would look to at least replace the old fuel pump and all the rubber flex lines....

The original tank was located above the fuel pump level, aiding the fuel flow...the new tank will be level with or possibly below the fuel pump level so good pump function will be essential.

[delosh]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'd be more comfortable replacing the pump. I'm sure it's original. Is it smart to just use a new OEM style vs an aftermarket type and location? I'd rather do that.

Looks like I'll be ordering a side fill Boyds carb tank, prebent lines (SS or steel?), fuel pump (and filter?) and new rubber line sections if the hard line kit isn't complete from carb to pump to tank. For filler neck, I'll use a pre-fabbed "box" that mounts to the inside of the bed corner. Anything else?

[mattfranklin]

Stock fuel pump and location are definitely more straightforward. The Suburban was fine with the rear tank and stock pump.

[delosh]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

While your under there. Consider running a second fuel line for a return. This way you can use a bypass regulator, and help eliminate vapor lock due to hot gas or days.

I just did some searching on these on Holley's site. At first glance, it's a little overwhelming to me - matching a new pump with a bypass regulator. Do I still choose a stock style mechanical pump? What's a good one? Is a bypass regulator needed due to changing to a rear tank or some other reason?

At some point, I'll likely do an LS swap so I don't want to do too many upgrades that will just be replaced later. I'm going with the Boyd's take for that reason - since it can be converted to EFI.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Any stock type pump dead heads when line psi reaches set point. Determined by internal spring pressure.

The bypass regulator just helps circle cooler fuel to the carb. Personally I like Carter pumps, and I never had issues with them.

The regulator is not nessacary, but helps of you have heat soak issues. They become nessacary I'd you use a bigger Holley mechanical pump since they typically run at 8 psi vs a Carter or stock 5-6 psi.

Even your average parts store pump will work fine for a stock engine, and if your thinking LS leave out the regulator.

[67C10Step]

Perfect timing on this thread as I, too, am considering moving my tank to the rear on a bone stock 283, 1967 truck. Just replaced the fuel pump due to a leaking diaphragm so that takes care of one issue.

My truck is a step side, or will be when I get the bed back together. Other than in the bed what are the options for filler? I don't mind in the bed but was wondering if someone had done something else.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Perfect timing on this thread as I, too, am considering moving my tank to the rear on a bone stock 283, 1967 truck. Just replaced the fuel pump due to a leaking diaphragm so that takes care of one issue.

My truck is a step side, or will be when I get the bed back together. Other than in the bed what are the options for filler? I don't mind in the bed but was wondering if someone had done something else.

Ford I think had the filler neck just popping out the side of the frame/bed on some early models.

Or you could run a filler pipe up the inside of the bad to a respectable height. Or just have the cap below the floor of the bed like some customs do.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Ford I think had the filler neck just popping out the side of the frame/bed on some early models.

Or you could run a filler pipe up the inside of the bad to a respectable height. Or just have the cap below the floor of the bed like some customs do.

I was wondering if anyone offered a tank with the behind the license plate fill like the old Chevelle's and such.

[delosh]

I 'm planning on the in-bed solution from Carolina Truck Shop since it requires no body refinishing. I can cut the hole and paint the box myself.

[delosh]

Is this a good choice for the pump?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...ckup/year/1967

For hard lines, should I go with steel or spend the coin on stainless?

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

I was wondering if anyone offered a tank with the behind the license plate fill like the old Chevelle's and such.

I think it can be done, but I have not seen anyone actually do it.

Camaros like Chevelles. The filler neck is something like 3 inches over the top of the tank. Including a larger locking filler cap. So the tank needs to be lowered some to find a goldilocks zone. Then modify a bumper accordingly to allow the flip down plate.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by delosh

Is this a good choice for the pump?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...ckup/year/1967

For hard lines, should I go with steel or spend the coin on stainless?

That pump will work great and looks like you won't need to buy a regulator like I did to keep pressure in check.
The steel or nickel/copper (nicop) fuel lines work easier than the stainless and should save you a few bucks.

[AussieinNC]

This pump is a two pipe pump, one inlet and one outlet....

This will be fine for any standard system, so long as your tank does not need a return line port....

Make sure that if the Boyds tank if it has a third line port that it can be easily plugged off.

I tend to use the NICOP line for fuel lines...just make sure the fittings are correctly installed....

This would be a good time to add a decent inline fuel filter...place it before the pump...use a metal case style if mounted in engine bay.

[delosh]

I believe the tank I'm looking at has a return port, but in the non-efi form, it's plugged. So if I LS swap, I can still use this tank, add a return line and in-tank pump. At least that's my understanding.

https://fueltankparts.com/collection...l-non-efi-tank

[MySons68C20]

You are correct....I have a Boyds tank with a plugged return until I go to EFI or a return system.