Progess Report

[72ArizonaBurb]

I haven't posted any pictures of my project for several months. I spent the winter changing the suspension back to stock (de-bagging it), built a motor for it and got it installed (along the way I bought 72 Cheyenne Super and parted it out) that created a bit of delay. I'm glad to say I'm finally on to paint and body work. This suburban came out of Arizona so the there is minimal rust - I may only need to repair 1 rocker panel. Started sanding all the old paint off and welding up the trim holes. It's a nice change be get past wrenching and grease and grime and get on to something new. I will post more pics as progress is made. Thanks to Sharpie for a rust free rear hatch!

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! Looking good!

[rsavage]

Lots of progress. Looks like you have a super solid Burb!

[72ArizonaBurb]

I have been very pleased with how solid this Burb is. After sanding the paint off the right rear quarter panel I found some bondo from a previous repair. It wasn't a rust repair it was more like a scrape starting just before the wheel and going back toward the rear. That's why you see all the bondo on the back half.

[72ArizonaBurb]

It's been about 4 months since I updated my progress. I have all the body work done and I have etch primed it, high primed it and have block sanded it 3 times, sealed it and finally base coat and clear coat. Today I painted all the jambs and the back side of the hood, tailgate, lift gate and few other piece parts. I'm going with House of Kolor Stato Blue. It's hard to beat House of Kolor products. I have also picked up a set of 6 way power seats out a Denali that I will be installing later. I have all 3 rows and need to figure out how to mount the 3rd row as it was designed to sit down in the bed and hook under a rod. I have'nt spent anytime on this yet. My next goal is to final sand it and paint the exterior. I am going to put the fenders back on before painting them so I reduce the chance of scratching them after they are painted. Starting to look at carpet and door panels colors. I will keep you posted as I move along.

[gcburdic]

nice looking burb

[project 67 sub]

x2

[VA72C10]

Very nice!!!

[jeffg1010]

I used factory 3rd row brackets from a 2005 (i believe) to mount mine. Sine they are recessed in the modern burbs, I used spacers to lift the brackets off the floor about an inch. Looks good. Mine is even set up to flip and fold forward. I will try to get some pics and get them posted on here.
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[72ArizonaBurb]

Did you cut the mounting brackets out of the 2005? I need to go back to the junk yard and see how these were mounted but its 2 hours away. I was thinking I may have to cut the rear floor panel out to get the brackets. What did you have to do to get yours? Pics would be great. If you can't post them here let me know I will send you my email address. Thanks!

[72ArizonaBurb]

Jeffg1010 - I have been meaning to contact you and see more details on your head liner. I saw it in some pics you posted on the board. You don't happen to have the pattern you used to make it do you? Did you take pics while making it? If so I wouldn't mind seeing them and see if I can duplicate.

Thanks again.

[jeffg1010]

It's weird, some are recessed and welded in. The one I got my seats from was the same way. But a friend of mine got me a bolt in set from a friend who had a junk yard for $20. I found some on ebay just now for $44. Let me get some photos before you buy these so I can make sure you like the way i did it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBUR...#ht_3472wt_722

It's funny, I built the headliner last summer before I discovered this forum. So I never dreamed i'd be asked for details. So, call it ignorance or just lack of initiative, but I didn't photo document anything. Just blind luck that it worked out for me. In hindsight, it was relatively simple, haha. But I do recall a lot of expletives, sweat, and a little blood.
In reality, had I discovered the forum sooner, i would've probably went an easier route, but at the time I thought this was my only option. But, for a daily driver (with kids) mine is perfect.
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[jeffg1010]

OK, almost forgot, but I was able to get some pics before it got too dark...
let me know if you have any more questions. You can see the "spacers" I used. My dad works for a company that builds equipment and I got these from his shop. If you like these, I may even be able to score you some.

I had five, but for some reason the ebay auction I linked yesterday looks like it only has three. I can't say why?
















center of back of rear seat at latching point


front view of driver side latch point




the spacers I used.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Great pictures. Thanks for getting these for me. I went to the junk yard today and got the brackets. $40 + tax for all of them. My back seats are actually 2 seats so there are 7 brackets in total. 4 in the rear the rear and 2 outside front and a common center front. Other than that they apper to be just like the ones you have. I would be happy to pay your Dad if you could fix me up with some spacers. There are 7 brackets in all. Thanks again!

[72ArizonaBurb]

Got the roof painted this weekend. Now I need to stop and do some fine tuning on the body work in a few places. Hoping to paint the rest of it by Labor Day but it depends on my work schedule.

[C20-67_N_MO]

Wow!

I just love the House of Kolor Blue you have on your 'burb!

Excellent work on it so far.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Thanks! I hope to finish painting it next week. I will post more pics then.

[DINS 1]

i like the color. I am planning a blue like that for my burb when i get that far. maybe even a grey roof and window area

[72ArizonaBurb]

I fretted for months on how to paint it. I like the 2 tone Chevy Cheyenne paint scheme that some people have done and I like the white roof on some. I ended up taking the easy way out and painting it all one color. I have a friend who put graphics on a suburban I did years ago. We are kicking around the idea of putting something simple on this one. Maybe painting the trim back on it. Only problem is you have to re-clear everything and I need to stop painting and start driving sometime. Here are a couple pics of the burb I did back in 97. I think I had more energy back them.

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by 72ArizonaBurb

I fretted for months on how to paint it. I like the 2 tone Chevy Cheyenne paint scheme that some people have done and I like the white roof on some. I ended up taking the easy way out and painting it all one color. I have a friend who put graphics on a suburban I did years ago. We are kicking around the idea of putting something simple on this one. Maybe painting the trim back on it. Only problem is you have to re-clear everything and I need to stop painting and start driving sometime. Here are a couple pics of the burb I did back in 97. I think I had more energy back them.

Now, that is ONE sweet headliner. You wanna share details of what you did there?

[72ArizonaBurb]

I had friend in Nashville at the factory where they made headliners for conversion vans. This was for a full size Dodge conversion van and I got it before it was cut to size. All we had to do was make a template and cut it out. It went in and fit like a dream. Unfortunately the conversion van business went under and he no longer has access to them.

[CMACDONALD1]

looks great!!! what kind of clear are you using? I sprayed the low voc U-POL clear on mine and was not real happy with the way it looks. I ended up wetsanding with 1000 then 1500 and 3000 then I three stage pollished it. It looks good now but wish I did not have to spend 20 hours pollishing. looks as thou we are at a similar spot on our projects. Hope all goes well with the rest of your project.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I am using the UC35. My experience about the quality and laydown of the paint has to do with the spray gun you are using and the amount of reducer you thin it with. Its always a challenge to get a slick paint job without running in all down the side of your truck. Wet sanding and buffing is the only way to really get a slick job. I have a Sata Jet 90 spray gun that really atomizes the paint (very little orange peel). This will help reduce how much work it takes to wet sand it. You are better off having to wet sand orange peel than to try and get a run out. If you really want it slick sand it with 500 grit after the clear then reclear one more time now you only have orange peel from 1 layer of paint (just the clear) and not the sealer, base coat and clear. Wet sand and buff.

[CMACDONALD1]

I was wondering if you were using House of Kolor. I'am a licenced painter but have not worked in a bodyshop for 12 years and paints have changed alot since I used to paint. I have a Sata NR2000 paint gun that laid down the old clear awsome but this new low voc clear that I tried does not even have reducer just the clear and activator. I think I will look into the HOK clear next time. When I went and talked to the paint rep he told me that these new clears are 1 coat clears and are high build. The paint rep guy also told me that Sata has a gun designed for these clears its a NR4000 but I dont want to spend a grand on a new gun for the odd paint job that I do. Does the HOK clear have activator and reducer? Thanks.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Its been about 13 years since I painted anything also. I still have my old gun. Yes I am using HOK UC35 clear. Here is the mixing spec:
5. MIXING UC35 KOSMIC URETHANE KLEAR
(MIX ONLY WHEN READY TO SPRAY)
• 2 parts Kosmic Acrylic Urethane Klear
• 1 part KU150 Catalyst or KU151 Exempt Hi Temp Flo-Catalyst
• 1 part RU- Reducer

You can add extra reducer if you really want it to flow. I really think the old guns do a better job. They may waste a little more paint but we aren't running a production line.