Noob Paint Questions - Rustoleum?

[truckster]

I'm getting ready to put the Blazer on the road, and I'm not going to have time to do a full frame-off right now. I've got it bare back to the firewall, and I'm going to be doing a little welding to repair some PO holes in the firewall.

As I put it together, I want to start painting. I've painted panels before, but never an entire vehicle, so I have a few questions. Cost is a factor, so I'm considering Rustoleum. They have a yellow color that's really close to the yellow I like. Since I won't be finishing all the bodywork at once, I could paint the exterior with Rustoleum and not worry too much about having to paint it again later. I'm planning on spraying either way. So here are my questions: For those of you who have used Rustoleum, did you have to go down to bare metal? Did you use any type of clear (I like shiny). Is there a good reason not to use Rustoleum? If I use a 2-stage, how much can I expect to pay for paint?

Thanks for helping me out!

[Foot Stomper]

Hi Truckster. My day job currently is technical sales for Rustoleum Industrial Coatings. I have been in the automotive coating business for 20 years selling BASF, Akzo Nobel, Matrix, Valspar, Northstar and some others.

Rustoleum has a very good coating that will withstand many years of sunlight, road salt and abrasion. The key to any paint coating is to use a very good primer. Primer will extend the life any any top coat by at least three times - depending. Look for 7086402 or Roc Prime. The top coats will not hold a bright shine more than 4 years or so (more if garaged), but are very good at preventing rust and holding the color. If you can find MetalMax Plus, you may find it to your liking or look for the Alkyd Enamels.

You do not need to get back to bare metal. If you have a "tightly adhered surface" you can paint over it after a light scuff with a red scotch brite pad. If it's flaking off, or is even absent, scrape, sand or wire brush the truck until no debris comes off the surface. Then you can prime then paint. You can spray, brush or even roll Rustoleum... depending on a multitude of factors and your level of skill and expectations, you can expect to end up with an "acceptable" coating to your liking.

Yellows and Reds are the most expensive colors to buy so be aware of this fact. If you decide on a 2K, you will need to factor in solvents, reducers and cleaners into your cost. They will hold the shine longer but you can expect they'll cost 2 or three 3 times more money.

we like pictures so post some.

Good luck with your project!

[blazer2007]

is there a good primer rustoleum sells?

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

The key to any paint coating is to use a very good primer. Primer will extend the life any any top coat by at least three times - depending. Look for 7086402 or Roc Prime

Just be aware that these primers are not designed to be sanded.

[truckster]

Foot Stomper,

Thanks so much! It's great to have an expert opinion. I told my wife my plan, and she's pushing me toward the automotive finishes for the durability.

I've already purchased Rustoleum primer and gloss black paint for the frame components.

I'll start posting pictures up as soon as I get started, hopefully within a week.

Thanks again.

[sick_46]

Foot Stomper: I plan on spraying my truck with rustoleum satin black oil based paint. Can I use the rusty metal primer under that paint? And can rusty metal primer be sanded?

[Foot Stomper]

Glad to help!
On my 59 I'm using Rust-oleum on the frame myself.

Your wife is a keeper! The durability factor is correct but unless you live on a gravel road the Rust-oleum will do a great job. If you're interested in a 20 year finish then automotive products are the way to go.

If you are looking for a low cost but reasonable durability and shine Rust-oleum is fine but it comes with some challenges. It's not designed as a automotive application but rather a robust industrial application.

Paint isn't just color...they are Coatings with specific atributes and benefits weighed against cost, durability, corrosion resistance and ease of applications and many other factors.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by sick_46

And can rusty metal primer be sanded?

Also curious ^

[tinydb84]

If you are going through the trouble of painting it why not use the paint that is meant for it? Kirker is cheap and would probably get you better results.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ultr...ts-c-1453.aspx

Just my two cents though.

[Foot Stomper]

To the guys asking about "can rusty metal primer be sanded". Yes it can be but it's not designed to be so it will not feather very well and will be hard to sand...so technically it can be sanded but practically speaking it can't be.
High build urethane is a far better product for sanding but is not designed for rusty metal.

Automotive Coatings are engineered to do a specific job of recoating and come with a higher price. Industrial Coatings are different and have a lower cost generally speaking because they are more "work horse" as opposed to finnese.

[Zappafan]

If I'm going to roll the Rust-oleum on, what is the ratio to reduce it? What's best for reducing it?

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by Zappafan

If I'm going to roll the Rust-oleum on, what is the ratio to reduce it? What's best for reducing it?

Read the tech data sheet but I think you need not reduce it at all. There are many Coatings that Rust-oleum makes so I can't say for sure.

[AcampoDave]

This entire pickup is painted with Rustoleum products (even the motor). It's been about 7 years since I did it, but it's a "carport queen" and I keep it maintained with a clay bar, and cheap wax. The turquoise color was custom blended using Hunter Green, Royal Blue and Gloss White. After I shot it, I color sanded it and then buffed with an orbital to get it smooth and shiny.

[raggedjim]

Dave, you truck looks great.

Rg

[AcampoDave]

Thanks, I probably spent around 350 bucks painting it from start to finish, not counting the orbital buffer (borrowed that from a friend. Dual action SnapOn...nice tool)

[NONHOG]

(Foot Stomper) flat white I assume to do multiple coats should be sprayed.
Or just the final coat?
Looking for a temporary paint job on my boys car. He's a student and funds will be limited for a number of years.

[AcampoDave]

Did you see the Corvair? http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

(Foot Stomper) flat white I assume to do multiple coats should be sprayed.
Or just the final coat?
Looking for a temporary paint job on my boys car. He's a student and funds will be limited for a number of years.

Gloss paint and flat paint are sold separately. That is to say it's not how you spray it or how many coats... it's the kind of gloss level you buy.

Unless I don't understand your question NONHOG?

[NONHOG]

Probably overthinking it but it seems the sand and roll would only work using flat until the last coat. Obviously nobody buffs flat paint. Flat would need no depth so other than coverage and uniform top coat I suspect the top coat would be the only critical coat. Looking for confirmation of these thoughts or is there more to consider? (clear? )

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

Probably overthinking it but it seems the sand and roll would only work using flat until the last coat. Obviously nobody buffs flat paint. Flat would need no depth so other than coverage and uniform top coat I suspect the top coat would be the only critical coat. Looking for confirmation of these thoughts or is there more to consider? (clear? )

Only profession painters with many years of experience and professional spray equipment can do a proper job of flat clear coat. Again, flat clear is sold as flat clear and shiny clear is sold as shiny clear.

If you want satin finish paint, then buy satin finish paint--- if you want flat paint then buy flat paint... first coat last coat won't matter at all because you'll get what's in the can regardless of how you apply it.

Is there something I am missing?

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Only profession painters with many years of experience and professional spray equipment can do a proper job of flat clear coat. Again, flat clear is sold as flat clear and shiny clear is sold as shiny clear.

If you want satin finish paint, then buy satin finish paint--- if you want flat paint then buy flat paint... first coat last coat won't matter at all because you'll get what's in the can regardless of how you apply it.

Is there something I am missing?

Clear as in "understand?" LOL not clear coat. I just want a uniform "flat" finish.
Nothing worse than a blotchy flat. That is what I am after.
Cheap enough I will experiment on some scrape.
Thanks.

[BGarza13x]

So, the color of rustoleum I want isn't around town, if have to order the gallons. Does Kilz work just as well? It's available at Home Depot, timetable, and they have an 'odorless' low voc version I was looking at for the interior. The more research I did, the more hesitant I was of rustoleum just because I have small kids that would ride with me and I don't want to needlessly expose them to toxic fumes.

Has anyone used rustoleum on the interior? Any pics to share?

[BGarza13x]

Or any rolled on oil based paint for the interior for that matter

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by BGarza13x

The more research I did, the more hesitant I was of rustoleum just because I have small kids that would ride with me and I don't want to needlessly expose them to toxic fumes.

Don't let your kids ride in the truck until the paint is dry and this goes with any paint! Why expose anyone to wet paint fumes??

[BGarza13x]

I'm not talking about wet paint, I'm talking about after it's dry. One website as I that even after a year, 50% of VOC fumes could still be in the paint, slowly leaking out. The EPA website says "TEAM studies indicated that while people are using products containing organic chemicals, they can expose themselves and others to very high pollutant levels, and elevated concentrations can persist in the air long after the activity is completed."