"The Ayatollah of Rusty Hole'a 1987 SWB 6.0 4L80E

[Gordonr1973]

Just working more in my cluster this weekend. Trying to cut a new backing for it as my old one was too flimsy. Easier to do this time around as my gauges are already set in the cluster do I can tell exactly how much to trim.

Old cluster back:

[Gordonr1973]

New one:

[Gordonr1973]

Looking forward to getting my aluminum pull strap bezels from UAtahoe, which can be found here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=628534

[Gordonr1973]

Started wet sanding today

[Hankster]

Looks good!

[jpnh]

I Agree. nice pearlesence

[kikkegek]

p.o.r.n.!!!!

looks killer man!

[Gordonr1973]

Thanks guys!

Decided to get rid of the drop and go with an old school rake instead ;-)

[NastyBuzzard]

I am doing a ls swap into my 87 GMC V1500 longbed.

I am transferring the entire wiring harness from my 01 donor.

My original plan was to fit the 01 gas tank onto my 87. Wont work.

So I am back to trying to figure out the fuel setup.

I have dual 16 gal tanks currently setup for tbi fuel injection.

I am going to use the cluster from the 01 in the 87 I have read that 87 sending unit reads 0-120 ohm and the 01 sending unit reads 90-240.. So having to find a way to leap that hurdle.

So what do I need for my fuel tanks to handle the ls engine? Upgraded pumps, i'm guessing.

Any ideas?

I am also considering deleting the 16 gal tanks for one 20 gal tank. What you think?

[y5mgisi]

Without highjacking Gordon's thread, You can drop in EP381 fuel pumps in your tanks. THey are for like 96 vortec trucks and vans or something. But they fit right in place of the old pumps. After that, you'll have to google (or gordon may answer) about a high pressure selector valve. But thats all you need there. I cant answer to the ohm issue.

EDIT:

Here is a list of all the vehicles that use the EP381 pump.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ad.../applications/

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Without highjacking Gordon's thread, You can drop in EP381 fuel pumps in your tanks. THey are for like 96 vortec trucks and vans or something. But they fit right in place of the old pumps. After that, you'll have to google (or gordon may answer) about a high pressure selector valve. But thats all you need there. I cant answer to the ohm issue.

EDIT:

Here is a list of all the vehicles that use the EP381 pump.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ad.../applications/

Thanks! You've been a great help. I think I already have the high pressure pollak switch, however I plan to get away from dual tanks and just run one of the saddle tanks, 16 gal for now. Later on if the 16 gal isn't enough I'll go back and swap out for the 20 gal saddle tank.

[Gordonr1973]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Thanks! You've been a great help. I think I already have the high pressure pollak switch, however I plan to get away from dual tanks and just run one of the saddle tanks, 16 gal for now. Later on if the 16 gal isn't enough I'll go back and swap out for the 20 gal saddle tank.

I'm not sure if you can switch tanks on all trucks due to space needed for the 20 gallon.

[Gordonr1973]

Made a remote oil pressure sender setup bc I was tired of the gauge fluctuating.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

I'm not sure if you can switch tanks on all trucks due to space needed for the 20 gallon.

I should be good, my truck is a longbed.

[Gordonr1973]

Bought a lift today for my muscle cars. Now I need to reorganize the shop!

[SamsAutoParts73-87]

Very Nice!
-Sam

[Gordonr1973]

Here's a question for you all: when I was first trying to get my truck wired up and I didn't know anything about wiring I paid a forum member here $500 to come wire my truck up. In the end he charged me $80 an hour to have him bring his dad over and tell me stories while he only put in three wires: the negative to the frame off the battery, the positive to the alternator and a straight line positive from the battery straight to the starter without a fuse in that line.

When I noticed that this past weekend I thought 'what am I supposed to do if my starter solinoid goes out and the starter stays engaged and won't shut off?' Without a fuse isn't there a chance my truck could burn?

Hey 'black knight' (as he called himself, that's not his forum name) --- you're an idiot. If you are doing this in all the big dollar builds you say you do for the local Hockey players like you were bragging about, you're full of Sh*t.

[y5mgisi]

There is doing it, and doing it right. Sounds like YOU will be doing it right this time.

[Gordonr1973]

Grill

[Sodell]

What did you use for the center white on the grill. It looks great. I had a local guy put some new vinyl in after I cleaned and polished them, not sure I like the results. I like your wheel selection as well!
[IMG][/IMG]

[naphtali5725]

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

Here's a question for you all: when I was first trying to get my truck wired up and I didn't know anything about wiring I paid a forum member here $500 to come wire my truck up. In the end he charged me $80 an hour to have him bring his dad over and tell me stories while he only put in three wires: the negative to the frame off the battery, the positive to the alternator and a straight line positive from the battery straight to the starter without a fuse in that line.

When I noticed that this past weekend I thought 'what am I supposed to do if my starter solinoid goes out and the starter stays engaged and won't shut off?' Without a fuse isn't there a chance my truck could burn?

Hey 'black knight' (as he called himself, that's not his forum name) --- you're an idiot. If you are doing this in all the big dollar builds you say you do for the local Hockey players like you were bragging about, you're full of Sh*t.

what wire are you talking about going to the starter? the main positive cable or the solenoid positive wire from the ignition switch?

You should have a main cutoff on your positive cable, so you can kill the power if need be

since you have top post, and side connections on your battery, you'll either need to change that, or get two cutoffs...

google battery cutoff, you'll see.. cheap insurance...

[Gordonr1973]

Bumper and tall air dam on. My shorter air dam didn't line up with the holes very well.

Sodell: I painted those inserts when I painted my truck. If I could have found vinyl coloured to match, I'd have gone that route. Painting and taping the inserts was hard.

Y: thanks for the hint, I'll look up the switch.

[naphtali5725]

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

Bumper and tall air dam on. My shorter air dam didn't line up with the holes very well.

Sodell: I painted those inserts when I painted my truck. If I could have found vinyl coloured to match, I'd have gone that route. Painting and taping the inserts was hard.

Y: thanks for the hint, I'll look up the switch.

truck is looking awesome man!!!

[TheBlueBomber]

Looking really good! When you bolted the Dirty dingo mounts on the motor did you leave them forward all the way? I'm having problems with mine. The oil pan is hitting the crossmember.

[Gordonr1973]

Yes, I moved it all the way up to clear the firewall. But I didn't have the big mech fan to deal with as I went with electrical fans.