A '54 named Busty

[Gregski]

so yeah just waiting on parts, which explains why I tend to jump around from project to project just to keep the ball rollin'

when a doin' the LS Swap you introduce Europic threads to the mix so now you find yourself adapting metric to Americandard such as the coolant temp sender and the oil pressure sender

[8man]

Just weld it in. Or get a bigger hammer.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Just weld it in. Or get a bigger hammer.

ha ha, that's some sound advice coming from you Robert, and it's on the Internet so it's gotta be valid!

[8man]

Yep.

I had a junk rear fender, so I've been practicing on it. I removed the support and welded two screws back in, now I know how to make slick rear fenders.

I know that doesn't help with the seats, the delayed parts or California protecting you to the point you can't breath air, but it is something.

[Gregski]

Everybody wanna be a Gangstah 'till it's time to do sum Gangstah stuff, am I right fellas?

[Gregski]

it ain't all headers, turbos, and cold intakes you know

[Gregski]

In today's First World Problems session we rant about Autometer swappin' horses mid stream

What is he talking about?

Well note how my small gauges have stud posts that you put ring terminals on and screw them down like a human would

then look at the Speedo the larger unit, see how they done away with that and now you use the stupid slip on (and easily can slip off) spade posts and terminals

add to this the fact that it makes it impossible to daisy chain your gauges and still keep them loosely coupled, and it's enough to drive this guy mad

and did I mention I premade all my loop connections prior to the Speedo and the stupid Tach finally deciding to arrive and join the party

[Deep Breath]

[6DoF]

my street-rod jeep has all autometer, and i wired the whole thing with the space connectors. daisy chaining by just crimping 2 wires into one connector. i've never had an issue with years of beating on that thing.

you ever taken pliers to a female end to tighten them up?

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Well note how my small gauges have stud posts that you put loop terminals on and screw them down like a human would

then look at the Speedo the larger unit, see how they done away with that and now you use the stupid slip on (and easily can slip off) spade posts and terminals

add to this the fact that it makes it impossible to daisy chain your gauges and still keep them loosely coupled, and it's enough to drive this guy mad

and did I mention I premade all my loop connections prior to the Speedo and the stupid Tach finally deciding to arrive and join the party

[Deep Breath]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

my street-rod jeep has all autometer, and i wired the whole thing with the space connectors. daisy chaining by just crimping 2 wires into one connector. i've never had an issue with years of beating on that thing.

you ever taken pliers to a female end to tighten them up?

I did the same to my Jeep. C'mon Greg.... You can handle this.

[8man]

Sucks, but what you gonna do? Install them anyway. I know, I know, you are correct, but...

[dsraven]

notice how the male p[art of the spade connector has a hole in it? there are good-better-best female connectors to fit different styles of the male connectors. this style needs to have a female terminal with a bump in the middle to match the hole in the terminal on the speedo. I try to buy the non insulated terminals for most stuff because then I can place the crimp on the opposite side of the terminal where the barrel parts come together (usually) so the crimp usually has a better chance of not deforming plus I can see the crimp and know exactly what my crimp looks like. then I shrink tube over the wire and the terminal but shrink less on the terminal part so it just has some insulation on it and won't short out. if you need to daisy chain the wiring then you can also use a terminal with a larger wire gauge size and put 2 wires into one terminal OR crimp on a terminal with a piggy back connector. knowing there is then twice the chance of a problem....some of the spade connectors don't have the bump to hold them onto the male terminal so they rely totally on friction from the sides. on the back of a speedo there may not be as much pull on the wiring as compared to, say, a light on the outside of a truck or trailer. some of the "new" wiring connections are great for being sealed but not so great for close quarters.
here is a site with some terminals where you can see the bump in the female side. these guys sell all kinds of wiring stuff so you can peruse to find something you need and buy online or take the name/part number and try napa.
Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Part Number : QDF8-250-1000

[6DoF]

aw man, Finnegan told me to use WireCare.com

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

notice how the male p[art of the spade connector has a hole in it? there are good-better-best female connectors to fit different styles of the male connectors. this style needs to have a female terminal with a bump in the middle to match the hole in the terminal on the speedo. I try to buy the non insulated terminals for most stuff because then I can place the crimp on the opposite side of the terminal where the barrel parts come together (usually) so the crimp usually has a better chance of not deforming plus I can see the crimp and know exactly what my crimp looks like. then I shrink tube over the wire and the terminal but shrink less on the terminal part so it just has some insulation on it and won't short out. if you need to daisy chain the wiring then you can also use a terminal with a larger wire gauge size and put 2 wires into one terminal OR crimp on a terminal with a piggy back connector. knowing there is then twice the chance of a problem....some of the spade connectors don't have the bump to hold them onto the male terminal so they rely totally on friction from the sides. on the back of a speedo there may not be as much pull on the wiring as compared to, say, a light on the outside of a truck or trailer. some of the "new" wiring connections are great for being sealed but not so great for close quarters.
here is a site with some terminals where you can see the bump in the female side. these guys sell all kinds of wiring stuff so you can peruse to find something you need and buy online or take the name/part number and try napa.
Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Part Number : QDF8-250-1000

good stuff, thank you

[Gregski]

Great! out of the 72 packages most shipped by UPS and FedEx this one by the USPS gets lost... shocking

[texxxan]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Great! out of the 72 packages most shipped by UPS and FedEx this one by the USPS gets lost... shocking

I hate it when that happens. Especially if it’s holding up progress.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

I hate it when that happens. Especially if it’s holding up progress.

Exactly, and it is, it's the adapter for the temp sending unit which I need to stick in the back of the passenger side cylinder head, make sure it work's then loom the engine harness and button up the gauge cluster

[Gregski]

Well, so I just tried to drop off the bucket seats at the upholsterer shop, yes it's Saturday, and yes his sign says he holds Saturday hours, was he there? no, was the shop opened, no!

this is off to a great start

[Gregski]

so I got the seat brackets primered since these got to get painted black

luv this primer

[Gregski]

and with the paint drying I kept busy and decided to start looming the engine wiring harness

one leg down, 78 to go!

[8man]

Too bad about the parts lost, but good news on the engine wiring progress.

[Gregski]

although I enjoy wiring (yes I suffer from a condition called loominitus), I still think spreading it out over a few days makes sense in order to keep your nerve

[57tailgater]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so I got the seat brackets primered since these got to get painted black

luv this primer

I saw what you got these out of. Can you provide some height and length dimensions? I think I need something like these.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 57tailgater

I saw what you got these out of. Can you provide some height and length dimensions? I think I need something like these.

the base brackets are approximately 15" long up top and a bit shorter on the bottom at 13.5"

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 57tailgater

I saw what you got these out of. Can you provide some height and length dimensions? I think I need something like these.

they appear to be a bit taller in the front at 6" and only 5" tall in the rear

[6DoF]

that table will be proper camo by the time this truck build is done