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Old 09-13-2004, 04:42 PM   #26
Jakes-66-K10
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What are they called though, so I can search ebay for them?
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Old 09-15-2004, 04:43 PM   #27
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Also, do you need a specific porportioning valve for disc brakes? I'm swapping front ends with a '71 and it has discs, master cylinder, and valves but no booster. So, I found a booster in a junk yard today that can bolt up to my master cylinder, but i'm not sure if the porp. valves will work with them both.
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Old 09-15-2004, 04:54 PM   #28
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http://motors.search-desc.ebay.com/C...chedZ2QQsotrZ2
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Old 09-15-2004, 05:03 PM   #29
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Nice truck, looks to be pretty clean. I always have liked the color green too.
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Old 09-15-2004, 05:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortexofpain
Also, do you need a specific porportioning valve for disc brakes? I'm swapping front ends with a '71 and it has discs, master cylinder, and valves but no booster. So, I found a booster in a junk yard today that can bolt up to my master cylinder, but i'm not sure if the porp. valves will work with them both.
Same prop valve for power and manual, as long as it's disc brake truck, it will work.
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Old 09-16-2004, 04:10 AM   #31
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I agree with tx firefighter on brake proportioning valve, as long as its a disc brake proportioning valve you should be ok. After checking over 30 different parts catologs it doesnt seem to matter if 1/2 or 3/4 ton and 1971 and 1972 are the same. My used disc brake set up had the proportioning valve with it (3/4 ton). My 1/2 ton parts doner truck appears to have the same proportioning valve on it.
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:05 PM   #32
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Does anyone know if they make rebuild kits for master cylinders? Here's a shot of my original, and then the new cylinder that came from the '71 donor with discs. It's not a master cylinder I've ever seen before, with a weird ruber gasket inside. Wondering if I can rebuild this or have to use it as a core to order a new one?
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:10 PM   #33
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And last question for today, here is a powerbooster that was from a 71 or 72 blazer. I haven't seen rebuild kits for these either, wondering if there is a way to know if it will hold pressure or not. I can see what I think has been a wasp nest inside the vacuum port, do you think it's safe to flush this out somehow and still use it?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:17 PM   #34
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i think i read that master cylinders are not worth rebuilding, cause they are only 25 bucks. cant help with the booster i have the same question.
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

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Old 09-28-2004, 08:28 PM   #35
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[Sure wish the search feature was working so people like me aren't asking the same questions over and over...[/QUOTE]

I think he is gettin close. I just searched the FAQ's!!!
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortexofpain
Thanks for the rim identification guys, that's awesome! I've looked around a bit online to try to find a name, part number, or anything so I can order two rear wheels. Any ideas about where to order these?

70C/20Chev, I sent you a private message about these camper mirrors. I'm not gonna use them.
2nd the ebay thing. I bought a brand new set of 4 with tires for $400.
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortexofpain
What are they called though, so I can search ebay for them?
Should have read all of these and posted once. sorry. Search ebay motors for "chevy 8 lug" that should narrow it down for you. Watch this at least a week before you buy. Sometimes after a rush of buyers the sales go flat. That's how I got mine so cheap.
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:53 AM   #38
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master cylinder

Master looks identical to my original one in 72 C20 with power discs. New one I bought for $18 looks identical (had $8 core also which I got back). Almost certain that is right master for c20/k20 with front Power discs. Your booster looks rough. I know there are services that rebuild these. Last one I read up on required parts to be dipped/stripped of finish and grime before sending in to rebuild. I am still reseaching the competition on rebuilt boosters. I am looking to refinish one I have and replace exterior boots to make look new, no luck on parts source yet. I am just finishing up replacing master and booster with restored one I bought for another truck a year ago. It was on shelf and saved me time finding parts for used one. I will try to restore myslef and use on 2nd truck. I am going to start a post on problems during install looking for bleeding help.

Good luck. Power brakes are way better than manual ones!!
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Old 09-29-2004, 02:08 PM   #39
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Where are you guys buying Mast. Cylinders for so cheap??
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Old 09-29-2004, 02:22 PM   #40
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Kragen's here.

Master Cyl was 18.00

Booster was 72.00

Same ones you have pictures of.

Go 71 3/4 ton when you buy them...
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Old 09-29-2004, 02:28 PM   #41
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Is that a local salvage yard or something? I was hoping to find somewhere I could order online for that price...
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Old 09-29-2004, 03:13 PM   #42
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www.partsamerica.com this is the checker autoworks/Kragens online partner.
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:16 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortexofpain
Where are you guys buying Mast. Cylinders for so cheap??
Pep Boys, O Reilley, AutoZone, just about any generic chain store will have them for 20 bucks or so.
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Old 10-05-2004, 11:34 AM   #44
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You guys rock, my local Checkers has them for $15.99. That sure beats the $50-100 the catalogs charge for these... that's a big difference. I took off the rotors and spindles from my donor front end over the weekend. I'm hoping to put these spindles onto the '70 arms. If for some reason I need to replace ball joints, should I put the '70 ball joints or the '72 ball joints in these arms?
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Old 10-05-2004, 05:21 PM   #45
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Two more questions: what is everyone using to paint bare metal parts? I am thinking of painting the new master cylinder, booster, hood hinges, etc. POR15 seems overkill for these, I was thinking just paint in a spray can?

And last question for the day, does anyone know of a source to buy new CST/20 emblems? I've literally checked dozens of places, and can only find CST/10 and Custom/20 badges... there has to be someone who has these.
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Old 10-05-2004, 07:46 PM   #46
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i just use high temp VHT spraypaint. it matches the semi gloss that i painted the engine compartment pretty well
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 12-03-2004, 03:17 PM   #47
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Well, just a quick update. I have this small block 400 in a machine shop, and have replaced the block, reusing the crank, and ordering new pistons. I did find out that the heads on this engine are not reusable. Any advice for replacement heads, from reading on here I have heard good things about Vortec heads. My intent is to build a strong and reliable motor, that is above average or stock specs. I won't be racing, but some trailer towing, and fuel consumption is important too. I could use as many suggestions as possible, such as heads cams pistons etc.

I have found a set of 400 heads for only $50, but will spend extra to go to Vortec heads if it makes a big difference...
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Old 12-03-2004, 03:23 PM   #48
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All of that blue paint on the engine is a tip off to being a newer engine. Late 70's is when they were blue I think. At least I had a 79 Vette that was blue.
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Old 12-03-2004, 11:55 PM   #49
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i plan on putting vortecs on my sb400. just make sure the steam holes get drilled or you will have some problems
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 12-04-2004, 12:15 AM   #50
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Yeah that's what I hear. So far the cheapest option I have seen is Summit, they sell the vortecs new for just over $500 for the pair...
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