Carrier Bearing - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**stllookn** · 08-09-2002, 01:24 AM

Mines still good but handy to know where to go to get a new one in about 100,000 miles!

**COBALT** · 08-09-2002, 02:20 AM

Yellow Cheyenne: Yeah I'd bet cash money your theory's right.

Everyone else: I had no problems getting the right parts through NAPA. Other stores didn't have the right parts or good quality I was looking for.

Sometimes you have to take the book away from them. The only problem I had was they tried to give me the wrong rear U-joint for the differential pinion yoke. For me since I have that beefy 10 bolt corp. axle I had to get the larger one. the other two were the standard size probably due to the smaller diameter spicer yokes on the two-piece shaft that supports the 3spd 400 and round support bearing.

I have the same problem communicating every time I go into parts stores. They ask what year/engine is the truck, and I say '69 with an '80 350. That's when the trouble starts. I have to say "NO, that's not correct, because the accesories ARE NOT from '69, they're a hybrid between '69 and '80". We go around and around. I almost have to buy the parts, and then come back later pissed with a receipt in my hand to get a return saying "it doesn't fit".

weasel29gm · 08-09-2002, 02:44 PM

Does anyone know what year one piece drive shaft that would work in a 69 swb 350 turbo short tail, coil springs take. Always heard a s/w shaft would work.Any ideas, thanks

woodrow59 · 08-09-2002, 03:35 PM

new69owner ,,,,,,

I have that problem too. Got an '85 305 in my '68. One thing i've found that works sometimes is to go to the napa or autzone website and look it up yourself. I say sometimes because I don't know what this engine came out of so when it gets to the car model part I try 2 or 3 different models and if the part # comes up the same i figure that one should work. Then take that part # and tell 'em that's what you want. They'll look at you dumbfounded for a couple of seconds and then go get it. LOL

1967LWBstepside · 08-09-2002, 03:35 PM

After routinely replacing carrier bearings, I finally replaced the driveshaft. I had a 1 piece custom made to replace the 2 piece. It has a larger diameter and so the yoke hole in the center had to be cut out a little for it to fit when it "slops around" during turns and such. Turns out my old shaft was damaged and no longer balanced so that made the bearings wear out faster too.

One more thing. Those Chinese made bearings don't hold up as long as the older American ones. They cost less but only lasted a few thousand miles.

In all my old American-made bearings, the rubber broke first. For a couple of the Chinese-made ones the bracket holding the rubber and bearing broke first.

I've been very pleased with the 1 piece shaft. It cost about $225 for a new balanced one -- everything new from transmission tail to rear end. Should have done that long ago instead of buying lots of bearings.

Mike

Dan67 · 08-09-2002, 03:48 PM

I'm new to the message board - have had my '67 LWB C10 for about two years. When I first bought it, I replaced the carrier bearing with a new unit from AutoZone ($18.99). I installed new U-joints at the same time. Within two months, the bearing had failed, torn loose of the rubber, etc. I replaced it again, and this one lasted a bit longer but the same thing is happening. Oddly enough, I never notice any vibration, only a slight squeaking noise at low speeds.

The truck is equipped with a coil spring rear suspension, 3-speed manual transmission and has the full-round carrier bearing.

One person commented that his bearing kept failing due to worn rear trans mounts. In my case, I reinstalled the transmission myself after replacing the clutch, and it appears to only mount at the bellhousing (no rear crossmember mount). Am I missing something (or is my truck missing something)?

Again, I haven't noticed any vibration to indicate an out-of-balance driveshaft. Perhaps I will consider having a one-piece shaft made - that should solve the problem once and for all.

Thanks,
Dan
'67 Chevy C10 LWB, 350 (Goodwrench crate) 3-speed
South Lyon, MI

1967LWBstepside · 08-09-2002, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan67
One person commented that his bearing kept failing due to worn rear trans mounts. In my case, I reinstalled the transmission myself after replacing the clutch, and it appears to only mount at the bellhousing (no rear crossmember mount). Am I missing something (or is my truck missing something)?

Dan67

My '67 has mounts on the bellhousing and no transmission crossmember. That's the normal way. I'm thinking of swapping mine to a crossmember if I change transmissions though. Will have to if I put an automatic in.

I like your truck. Really clean and nice paint.

Mike

palallin · 08-10-2002, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan67
[snip] I replaced it again, and this one lasted a bit longer but the same thing is happening. Oddly enough, I never notice any vibration, only a slight squeaking noise at low speeds.[snip]
Again, I haven't noticed any vibration to indicate an out-of-balance driveshaft. Perhaps I will consider having a one-piece shaft made - that should solve the problem once and for all.

Thanks,
Dan
'67 Chevy C10 LWB, 350 (Goodwrench crate) 3-speed
South Lyon, MI

Dan,

Are you indexing the two drive shafts as you put them back together? Failing to do so will cause early failure of this kind. All the crosses have to line up, or the shaft will be out of balance.

Yellow Cheyenne · 08-10-2002, 02:07 PM

Ok, I'll keep the thread going. On those that have a manual tranny (three or four speed), is there a slider joint at the rear of the tranny? I haven't looked at manual tranny for so long that I don't recall for sure. If it bolts solid like I think it does and you use a one piece drive shaft or a drive shaft that doesn't slide in the middle, where does the drive shaft get room to move when the suspension moves?

08-09-2002, 01:24 AM	#26
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,463	Mines still good but handy to know where to go to get a new one in about 100,000 miles! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

08-09-2002, 02:20 AM	#27
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yellow Cheyenne: Yeah I'd bet cash money your theory's right. Everyone else: I had no problems getting the right parts through NAPA. Other stores didn't have the right parts or good quality I was looking for. Sometimes you have to take the book away from them. The only problem I had was they tried to give me the wrong rear U-joint for the differential pinion yoke. For me since I have that beefy 10 bolt corp. axle I had to get the larger one. the other two were the standard size probably due to the smaller diameter spicer yokes on the two-piece shaft that supports the 3spd 400 and round support bearing. I have the same problem communicating every time I go into parts stores. They ask what year/engine is the truck, and I say '69 with an '80 350. That's when the trouble starts. I have to say "NO, that's not correct, because the accesories ARE NOT from '69, they're a hybrid between '69 and '80". We go around and around. I almost have to buy the parts, and then come back later pissed with a receipt in my hand to get a return saying "it doesn't fit". __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 08-09-2002 at 02:24 AM.

08-09-2002, 02:44 PM	#28
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,091	Does anyone know what year one piece drive shaft that would work in a 69 swb 350 turbo short tail, coil springs take. Always heard a s/w shaft would work.Any ideas, thanks __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 35YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

08-09-2002, 03:35 PM	#29
woodrow59 OzarkHillbilly in Atlanta Join Date: May 2002 Location: Douglasville, Ga. Salem, Mo. Posts: 386	new69owner ,,,,,, I have that problem too. Got an '85 305 in my '68. One thing i've found that works sometimes is to go to the napa or autzone website and look it up yourself. I say sometimes because I don't know what this engine came out of so when it gets to the car model part I try 2 or 3 different models and if the part # comes up the same i figure that one should work. Then take that part # and tell 'em that's what you want. They'll look at you dumbfounded for a couple of seconds and then go get it. LOL __________________ 72 custom/10 LWB 68 Longhorn C20 Custom Camper (sold)

08-09-2002, 03:35 PM	#30
1967LWBstepside 'Heavy Metal' Redefined. Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Starkville, MS, USA Posts: 107	After routinely replacing carrier bearings, I finally replaced the driveshaft. I had a 1 piece custom made to replace the 2 piece. It has a larger diameter and so the yoke hole in the center had to be cut out a little for it to fit when it "slops around" during turns and such. Turns out my old shaft was damaged and no longer balanced so that made the bearings wear out faster too. One more thing. Those Chinese made bearings don't hold up as long as the older American ones. They cost less but only lasted a few thousand miles. In all my old American-made bearings, the rubber broke first. For a couple of the Chinese-made ones the bracket holding the rubber and bearing broke first. I've been very pleased with the 1 piece shaft. It cost about $225 for a new balanced one -- everything new from transmission tail to rear end. Should have done that long ago instead of buying lots of bearings. Mike __________________ 1967 C10 LWB stepside, 250 engine, GM HEI, aftermarket A/C., Clifford Performance intake, Stovebolt split headers, Carter AFB 500, X-pipe & Dynomax Super Turbos, 1 piece custom driveshaft, cyprus bed wood & stainless bed strips. Starkville, Mississippi \| My Truck Page

08-09-2002, 03:48 PM	#31
Dan67 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 23	Carrier bearing repeat failures I'm new to the message board - have had my '67 LWB C10 for about two years. When I first bought it, I replaced the carrier bearing with a new unit from AutoZone ($18.99). I installed new U-joints at the same time. Within two months, the bearing had failed, torn loose of the rubber, etc. I replaced it again, and this one lasted a bit longer but the same thing is happening. Oddly enough, I never notice any vibration, only a slight squeaking noise at low speeds. The truck is equipped with a coil spring rear suspension, 3-speed manual transmission and has the full-round carrier bearing. One person commented that his bearing kept failing due to worn rear trans mounts. In my case, I reinstalled the transmission myself after replacing the clutch, and it appears to only mount at the bellhousing (no rear crossmember mount). Am I missing something (or is my truck missing something)? Again, I haven't noticed any vibration to indicate an out-of-balance driveshaft. Perhaps I will consider having a one-piece shaft made - that should solve the problem once and for all. Thanks, Dan '67 Chevy C10 LWB, 350 (Goodwrench crate) 3-speed South Lyon, MI Attached Images

08-10-2002, 02:07 PM	#34
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	Ok, I'll keep the thread going. On those that have a manual tranny (three or four speed), is there a slider joint at the rear of the tranny? I haven't looked at manual tranny for so long that I don't recall for sure. If it bolts solid like I think it does and you use a one piece drive shaft or a drive shaft that doesn't slide in the middle, where does the drive shaft get room to move when the suspension moves? __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350



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