NJ Suburban

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by HO455

One thing wish I had done at the stage you're at would have been to fabricate some mounting points for 2nd row shoulder harness seat belts.
I am going to take advantage of the impending repair work and convert my fuel tank to a non-vented gas cap. I am tired of the gas cap leaking when doing going around a tight right turn at speed with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel. Previously I installed a vent in the fuel tank sender and will route it to the driver's side and hook it to 72 Suburban style evap set up. Might be something to consider.
What are you planning for bumpers?
Have your rebuilt the door hinges?
The kick panel vent doors on mine needed new seals installed.
How is your heater core? It sure would be easier to replace with no front clip.
I don't remember if you replaced the spring shackles when you installed the new springs.

Lots of good tips here thanks! I don't think I'll do the second row 3 point seatbelt brackets. I'm not sure I'll even put the second row seats in. Funny my Sub was my daily driver from the early 80's till 1997. Never had a problem with gas coming out of the gas cap! I have bumpers but haven't done anything with them yet. They could be sandblasted and primed. I'll probably go with white painted bumpers. I'll have to look up the rebuild kits for all the door hinges. Not sure I'll need to though. My 68 donor body was from a low mileage truck but I'll definitely check them out. A few months ago I rebuilt and detailed the heater box complete with new seals and a new heater core. One of the original 70 style kickpanel vents disappeared. Both 68 vents are in my pile of parts so I'll install them. Where did you find seals for them? Maybe that's something I can install too. The springs are the originals. Ride height is good but I should look up new shocks.

Originally the truck was non power drums on all four corners. The guy I sold it to converted to power drums. I need to source a replacement master and booster assembly. The one in it is pretty ratty.

Paul

[zicc1835]

Paul
thanks for the update... congrats on the new construction I like to check it out in the spring ...we did some major Reno last summer added a family room and a kitchen out to the pool I haven't done a darn thing to my trucks remember if you need a hand let me know. I do have a car trailor now seeing up a wench here shortly if you need help on relocating the Burb
Jess

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

Paul
thanks for the update... congrats on the new construction I like to check it out in the spring ...we did some major Reno last summer added a family room and a kitchen out to the pool I haven't done a darn thing to my trucks remember if you need a hand let me know. I do have a car trailor now seeing up a wench here shortly if you need help on relocating the Burb
Jess

Good to hear from you Jess and thanks!

[HO455]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Lots of good tips here thanks! I don't think I'll do the second row 3 point seatbelt brackets. I'm not sure I'll even put the second row seats in. Funny my Sub was my daily driver from the early 80's till 1997. Never had a problem with gas coming out of the gas cap! I have bumpers but haven't done anything with them yet. They could be sandblasted and primed. I'll probably go with white painted bumpers. I'll have to look up the rebuild kits for all the door hinges. Not sure I'll need to though. My 68 donor body was from a low mileage truck but I'll definitely check them out. A few months ago I rebuilt and detailed the heater box complete with new seals and a new heater core. One of the original 70 style kickpanel vents disappeared. Both 68 vents are in my pile of parts so I'll install them. Where did you find seals for them? Maybe that's something I can install too. The springs are the originals. Ride height is good but I should look up new shocks.

Originally the truck was non power drums on all four corners. The guy I sold it to converted to power drums. I need to source a replacement master and booster assembly. The one in it is pretty ratty.

Paul

Here is a link (below) to my post (#232) on the vent doors. After I did mine I found some threads on using different "free" material for the seal. If you want to save $5 do some searching.

Maybe consider just rebuilding the driver's door hinges. I didn't rebuild the hinges on my Burban but, after 30k miles the driver's door is starting to get loose. I can feel the door just starting to drag on the latch when I open the door. I may have pull the drivers door hinges over the winter and rebuild them.

I mentioned the shackles as they have quite an effect on the how the truck drives down the highway. Worn ones will give you that wandering down the road feeling. Many folks don't replace them when they do a front end rebuild and the truck never quite drives as it should. Don't ask how I know this.

Man oh man there's nothing better than white painted bumpers on a K model in my book! Looking forward to the end result.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=10

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by HO455

Here is a link (below) to my post (#232) on the vent doors. After I did mine I found some threads on using different "free" material for the seal. If you want to save $5 do some searching.



https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=10

Didn't see the seals on LMC till just now after putting in the order for the steering seals and bearings I need for the steering column. There is a set cheap on ebay but the guy wants 9 bucks to ship them! I'll put them on my list for my next LMC order.