89 Jimmy Stumbling

[jrdecat]

'89 Jimmy, 5.7 TBI, rust on the fender, flames on the hood, worn out tie rod ends



I know the last few details weren't germane to the topic and the picture was totally unnecessary, but everybody likes to look at pictures. So I did something really stupid...I ran my '89 Jimmy pretty much out of gas last weekend. Ever since then it has been running a bit rough and stumbling under load. Seems to be much worse when the engine is warm. I've changed the fuel filter already, and it sounds to me like a fuel delivery issue, but I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump (I'm assuming pump got some crap in it and is going bad). Just wondering if anyone out there has any troubleshooting tips before I drop cash on a new fuel pump. Thanks in advance for your help.

[jrdecat]

Oh yah...another detail that doesn't matter is that I'm about to trade up to some 33x9.50 BFGs. I don't like wide tires for winter driving and the 33's will fill the fender wells a little better.

[jrdecat]

Not even a comment how stupid it was...?

[1984 t type]

Do the tbi's have a filter right at the inlet like the carbed engines or is it just the one on the frame ? Also what size tires and lift in your pic ?

[motornut]

frame rail that i've seen,but check they can be added

[jrdecat]

It's a 4" Pro Comp lift and 32x11.50 15 tires. I'm going with 33x9.50 as soon as these wear out. Wide tires and worn out steering components don't mix well, but I'm fixing all tie rod pieces this weekend. I tried to do it today, but the nuts need a torch wrench to get them off.

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by jrdecat

It's a 4" Pro Comp lift and 32x11.50 15 tires. I'm going with 33x9.50 as soon as these wear out. Wide tires and worn out steering components don't mix well, but I'm fixing all tie rod pieces this weekend. I tried to do it today, but the nuts need a torch wrench to get them off.

If you can, try and use one of those fork separator things. I hammered on my tie-rod end to get it off the knuckle and it was stuck. I hit it a few more times harder and ended up bending the threads down just a touch. And that was a new one too (12 months old). But brought it back to Autozone and they were nice and swapped out the whole thing for free.

Check out Autozone as a lot of their tie rod ends are Moogs. Also, new ball joints will help tighten things up too if you are in there.

[jrdecat]

Thanks Ski-me. Problem was getting the nut off. I have a pickle fork to pound with but I gotta get the nut off first. I'm replacing the tie rod stuff first, and will do the upper and lower ball joints only if I have to. I hate having to get them pressed in. I checked autozone to get all the moog part #'s, then bought them from amazon.com much much much much much cheaper. For my '97 silverado they wanted $250 for pitman arm, idler arm, and idler arm bracket. I bought it all from amazon for $140, free 2nd day shipping.

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by jrdecat

Thanks Ski-me. Problem was getting the nut off. I have a pickle fork to pound with but I gotta get the nut off first. I'm replacing the tie rod stuff first, and will do the upper and lower ball joints only if I have to. I hate having to get them pressed in. I checked autozone to get all the moog part #'s, then bought them from amazon.com much much much much much cheaper. For my '97 silverado they wanted $250 for pitman arm, idler arm, and idler arm bracket. I bought it all from amazon for $140, free 2nd day shipping.

That's a great deal, good job. I just used AZ's free ball joint C-Clamp to drive out and push in new ball joints. A little torch is a good friend.

Try getting the fork in there and applying a bunch of downward pressure and then try impacting the nut off. Just trying to keep the bolt from spinning. And of course, WD-40 or penetrating oil.

[NastyBuzzard]

I am willing to bet when you drop the tank, you will find a piece of rubber hose between the fuel pump and sending unit. That hose will be split, slit, or have a hole in it.

If you want to know if its fuel pump or not, do a fuel pressure test. 9-13 PSI is normal. If you're lower than that, go ahead and drop the tank. It isn't that bad.

At least you don't have dual tanks and aren't having to fight with too high of fuel pressure and installing a new fuel tank selector valve like I am right now... Saddle bag tanks suck.

[jrdecat]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

I am willing to bet when you drop the tank, you will find a piece of rubber hose between the fuel pump and sending unit. That hose will be split, slit, or have a hole in it.

If you want to know if its fuel pump or not, do a fuel pressure test. 9-13 PSI is normal. If you're lower than that, go ahead and drop the tank. It isn't that bad.

At least you don't have dual tanks and aren't having to fight with too high of fuel pressure and installing a new fuel tank selector valve like I am right now... Saddle bag tanks suck.

Funny you say that...I believe I read through your thread last night when researching my issue and I remember the picture of the hose with the hole in it.

[jrdecat]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

That's a great deal, good job. I just used AZ's free ball joint C-Clamp to drive out and push in new ball joints. A little torch is a good friend.

Try getting the fork in there and applying a bunch of downward pressure and then try impacting the nut off. Just trying to keep the bolt from spinning. And of course, WD-40 or penetrating oil.

Free ball joint C-clamp? Well I guess I will be doing ball joints soon. If I wasn't so lazy I would just weld up a frame to use as a press with my bottle jack.