Manual to Auto (Shift Linkage Problem) help!!

[dmw319]

So I am in the process of trying to install my automatic shift linkage to my transmission and I am not able to see how the bracket (in the first pic) attaches to the frame. Is it the correct one? The car was originally a manual trans so I was assuming Id have to drill holes in the frame to attach it, but I cant even get it to fit in the right position because of the cross member piece that goes between the frame under the transmission. Its too jammed tight. I cant push it any further over to the right (toward the front of the truck) without it hitting. What do I do? Ive seen pictures of brackets that look not as wide, maybe I need to use one of those? Any help is appreciated!

[dmw319]

All the other pictures Ive seen of the underside of trucks dont have that crossmember. It isnt holding up the transmission.. Can I cut around it? Should I remove it?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3585119

[sameyrasmea72]

Sounds/looks like you still have a namual cross member. Where it attaches is not close to a cross member.

[ItsRandy]

You have the correct bracket. Was this a factory manual transmission truck with mounts on the bell housing resting on the cross member in the picture? If that is the case, you will need an automatic cross member and I think you will need to remove the cross member in the picture. I've never made the swap but I know the cross members are different in shape and location.

I don't know if you can tell from the picture the shape of the cross member. That is a stock automatic cross member.

[dmw319]

Yes I have the automatic cross member too and it was an original manual frame, so I guess I need to remove that crossmember in order to install the bracket. Ugh! Haha. THanks!

[profe56]

I have a similar problem. My truck was manual now automatic 700r4 and that crosmember don't let me install the flywheel cover. I installed a Cadillac Catera shifter on the floor.If you folks are going to any pick your parts check the cadillac catera shifters.

[profe56]

Forgot to say, you can make unlock the shifter when you push the brake pedal. and lock it when is not pushed.

[Gumby]

you could just crudly notch it as needed to get the bracket on and working as needed, then remove the cross member and beef it up where you cut it, if need be.

[dmw319]

I think I'll just take the cross member out completely. It isn't doing anything!
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[Gumby]

on flat level ground its does nothing, might regret it when it twist on uneven ground, why its there, so the zbar or linkage didn't bind or fall out when it did.

usually easier to notch stuff in place.

[ccope]

Unless you have to use the set up you currently have, LMC offers a Transmission Shift Linkage Kit ($49.95-sorry no pic) that will allow you to keep the cross member in place and not have to notch or remove it.

[shawno72]

You will have to remove the old manual trans cross member.
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[shawno72]

Here is a couple pics if mine swap after the manual crossmember was removed.



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[Towstrap]

does anyone sales that auto bracket

[c10monkey]

Originally Posted by ccope

Unless you have to use the set up you currently have, LMC offers a Transmission Shift Linkage Kit ($49.95-sorry no pic) that will allow you to keep the cross member in place and not have to notch or remove it.

This is what I did and its great. Plus you don't have to worry about bushings wearing out...
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[Xeen]

You could use a Lokar auto transmission shift cable and avoid the whole issue all together.
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/col...shiftlink.html

[dmw319]

shawno72: did you have to drill holes for the bracket or were there some already in the frame?

thanks yall this helps! i am going to stick with the stock setup right now so I dont have to spend some $$

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by dmw319

shawno72: did you have to drill holes for the bracket or were there some already in the frame?

thanks yall this helps! i am going to stick with the stock setup right now so I dont have to spend some $$

Holes for the bracket and auto trans crossmember should already be there. I didn't have to do any drilling. I just used an air hammer with a chisel bit to knock the rivets off to remove the old manual crossmember. Check my build thread, the last few pages shows the swap.
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[dmw319]

awesome, thanks!

[shawno72]

Your welcome. Once you get the old crossmember out of the way everything will fall into place. The frames seem to be drilled universally to fit all the different options.
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[dmw319]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Your welcome. Once you get the old crossmember out of the way everything will fall into place. The frames seem to be drilled universally to fit all the different options.
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good thats what i wanted to hear! now i just gotta get some bolts and nuts to hold it on

[dmw319]

Next question:



The set screw in the picture (to the left of the cotter pin) that goes into the black thing that holds the rod in... that screw seems far too short because once I put the screw through the hole in the column tab there are hardly any threads left. Doesnt seem like it is long enough to go through the washer, hole in the column tab, and then into the black cylinder piece that holds the rod on. Could it be that I need a longer bolt there? Dunno if anyone else has had that issue or not. Maybe Im doing something wrong?

[shawno72]

It just needs to go in far enough to hold it tight against the rod.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by shawno72

It just needs to go in far enough to hold it tight against the rod.

Yea I cant even get it to thread at all, so I guess I just need a slightly longer bolt.

Also, while I got the pro in here, can I remove the clutch pedal even though its attached/mounted to the same piece as the brake pedal?

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by dmw319

Yea I cant even get it to thread at all, so I guess I just need a slightly longer bolt.

Also, while I got the pro in here, can I remove the clutch pedal even though its attached/mounted to the same piece as the brake pedal?

You sure can, it will slide out just make sure you totally remove the bolt I'm pointing to in the pic. The pedal pivot rod has a notch and the piece on the end will not come off till you remove the bolt.