Polishing with Norton Ice--is this normal scratching?

[msg]

Thanks guys, I havent been vigilant on the water. Ill have to go get a filtered unit now. Something like this?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Tas...waAk2MEALw_wcB

• I will wetsand again with 1000 if its safe you think
• Then go 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000 even.
• As I sand I will keep water running as I go vs how Ive been doing it which was dip the block into the water bucket and sand and as the surface felt like it needed it I would take the microfiber rag and squeeze water from the bucket onto the panel and keep sanding.
• For the towels I have only used microfiber rags, is this not what I should be using? I definitely dont want to add scratches and cause halo effects.
• Ill also wash out the wool pad. Just dip it into a hot soapy bucket and rinse out?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks guys, I havent been vigilant on the water. Ill have to go get a filtered unit now. Something like this?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Tas...waAk2MEALw_wcB

• I will wetsand again with 1000 if its safe you think
• Then go 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000 even.
• As I sand I will keep water running as I go vs how Ive been doing it which was dip the block into the water bucket and sand and as the surface felt like it needed it I would take the microfiber rag and squeeze water from the bucket onto the panel and keep sanding.
• For the towels I have only used microfiber rags, is this not what I should be using? I definitely dont want to add scratches and cause halo effects.
• Ill also wash out the wool pad. Just dip it into a hot soapy bucket and rinse out?

That filter should work. Definitely keep water running to flush away the sanding sludge, that makes a big difference.

I wouldn't start with 1000 again, you already have all the texture cut flat. Just need to work on refining the scratches to a level that they buff out instead of opening up into larger valleys. You may be able to start with 2000 grit; always start with the least aggressive paper possible when removing scratches.

There are different grades of Microfiber towels. I've seen some that leave a really fine haze just like if you had wiped it down with a 10,000 grit scuff pad. For the wool pad buffing stage it shouldn't matter since you'll be using finer compound and pads to remove swirls, but you should finish up with a quality microfiber towel from a detailing company or cotton polishing cloths. Any cloth can also build up too much residue and leave light towel marks.


All of this is why I only own and drive worn original paint/patina cars now

[msg]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

All of this is why I only own and drive worn original paint/patina cars now

Smart, Ill start with as nice as I can get it and it will eventually become less of a detail that makes me crazy.

I tried out an area on the front fender today and I think it looks much better. I put in a screen until i can get a filter and ran water with one hand and wet sanded with the other..tricky and not sure im doing it right. After a polish with the wool and 2 other pads in the system it looked much better. I can still see som minimal scratching but Im terrified Ill pburn through if I keep at it. Already did on the front of the fender in a 1/4 inch spot. Now I gotta figure out how to repair that without redoing the entire panel.

[nsb29]

I would consider re-clearing your pieces if you’re sanding through three coats gusts not enough. Starting with 1000gr your going sand off the best part of two coats buy the time you’re down to 2500 and less on edges where the paint is always thinner. When I was working at Fred’s we did a lot of XKE’s and they were always black, we would start with 8 coats single stage Concept then we would start blocking with 320 people would think we were crazy but his cars won a lot of paint awards hear is a37 I did the paint on a few years ago single stage concept

[nsb29]

Two more Reflections

[msg]

That is beautiful work, that is experience ! I knew going in on this being my very first paint job that I wasnt going to have perfection. I nearly accepted the orange peel I have, but there are runs and imperfections that drove me to do this on a few panels. If I can get the worst of it out and polish without the dang spiderwebby hallo stuff Id be more than happy.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by nsb29

I would consider re-clearing your pieces if you’re sanding through three coats gusts not enough. Starting with 1000gr your going sand off the best part of two coats buy the time you’re down to 2500 and less on edges where the paint is always thinner. When I was working at Fred’s we did a lot of XKE’s and they were always black, we would start with 8 coats single stage Concept then we would start blocking with 320 people would think we were crazy but his cars won a lot of paint awards hear is a37 I did the paint on a few years ago single stage concept Attachment 1961829

Attachment 1961830

was this 8 coats then sand or did you all apply a few coats, then sand and apply more and then final sand?

[nsb29]

All at the same time three or four panels at a time it takes most all day then let it cure. I assemble body panels and then block it out that way all your panels are blocked as one but buy the time I’m dun I have two or three coats left in the thinner areas. you have a lot of things to consider like gaps for one when you apply that much paint you also need a client with deep pockets it’s very time consuming

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by nsb29

All at the same time three or four panels at a time it takes most all day then let it cure. I assemble body panels and then block it out that way all your panels are blocked as one but buy the time I’m dun I have two or three coats left in the thinner areas. you have a lot of things to consider like gaps for one when you apply that much paint you also need a client with deep pockets it’s very time consuming

I though of another question if you dont mind, When you put that many coats on, what were the hood, door, trunk gaps were before body work? 3/16"? and after paint did you wet sand the gaps at all or just wet sand up to the gaps and just blended in with buffing? just thinking with that many coats you would have to pre plan on the gaps before hand

[nsb29]

Yes you have to start with a larger gaps and and the edges are sanded slightly to make the gaps perfect and are hand buffed, but you’re not trying to build your edges only the surface for blocking flanges and other places are masked to prevent over build. The fenders and sum other parts that didn’t need the build got 4 to 6 coats. If you’re not going for a paint award there no point and this is single stage not b/c.

[slammed57]

so a tad bit more than 3/16" gaps or right at 3/16"