Help! Rear pinion seal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Als454 · 09-09-2006, 12:46 PM

1969 C30
My rearend (the truck) is leaking through the front pinion seal. I can't get the nut off to remove the yoke that holds the drive shaft. Is there a trick to getting this nut off, also this nut wouldn't be left handed would it?

OhioDan · 09-09-2006, 01:58 PM

I held the yoke with a pipe wrench, and turned the nut with a breaker bar and socket. You might try a impact wrench and socket on the nut? NO, IT IS NOT LEFT-HANDED! Just real tight. Good luck.

Als454 · 09-09-2006, 11:01 PM

Thanks Dan, I'll give that a try.
Allen

Jim_PA · 09-09-2006, 11:30 PM

I finally got mine apart today after making 4-5 attempts -- I ended up jacking the truck up in the air, and making a wood rod long enought that I could smash the brakes with my foot, and then jam the pedal with the rod to hold the brakes on...

Then I got my 1/2" breaker bar, and half of the handle to my floor jack, and with my leg, I was able to break it loose. I thought something broke when it finally let go, but everything is fine.

67chevy2wd · 09-10-2006, 12:24 AM

If you have a park brake you could lock that, it should hold. Then use and impact it will work way better than a breaker bar.

junkyardjohn · 09-10-2006, 05:42 AM

I USED A LARGE IMPACT WRENCH ALSO. CAME RIGHT OFF.

JOHN

Psycho71 · 09-10-2006, 05:03 PM

Be sure you tighten it back very tight. Much like it was. That nut is very critical in keeping the wear pattern right on your gear assembly. Too loose and it could allow the pinion to walk into the ring farther than it should be. And if the pinion bearings are worn, overtightening it could pull the pinion back away from the ring effecting it the opposite way. The crush sleeve, inside, IS very difficult to crush (as I learned rebuilding my 12 bolt) but it is possible. Definately use lock tight on the nut when you re-install. And, if possible, get some marking compound and check your wear pattern again. This will, at the very least, give you peace of mind in knowing it is as good as it can be. You can go to Richmond's site and illustrations of incorrect, and correct, wear patterns. It would be much cheaper if you found any issues before you drove the truck. The only way you'll know otherwise is by noise, or broken parts. It's really not that difficult. I was intimidated by rear ends until I dove into mine. Now they really don't scare me anymore. Mine has lasted over 10,000 miles (w/alot of boat towing) with no noise, and no malfunctions. Yet.

Jay

09-09-2006, 12:46 PM	#1
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	Help! Rear pinion seal 1969 C30 My rearend (the truck) is leaking through the front pinion seal. I can't get the nut off to remove the yoke that holds the drive shaft. Is there a trick to getting this nut off, also this nut wouldn't be left handed would it? __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

09-09-2006, 01:58 PM	#2
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal I held the yoke with a pipe wrench, and turned the nut with a breaker bar and socket. You might try a impact wrench and socket on the nut? NO, IT IS NOT LEFT-HANDED! Just real tight. Good luck. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started. Last edited by OhioDan; 09-09-2006 at 01:59 PM.

09-09-2006, 11:01 PM	#3
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal Thanks Dan, I'll give that a try. Allen __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

09-09-2006, 11:30 PM	#4
Jim_PA Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: PA Posts: 2,696	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal I finally got mine apart today after making 4-5 attempts -- I ended up jacking the truck up in the air, and making a wood rod long enought that I could smash the brakes with my foot, and then jam the pedal with the rod to hold the brakes on... Then I got my 1/2" breaker bar, and half of the handle to my floor jack, and with my leg, I was able to break it loose. I thought something broke when it finally let go, but everything is fine.

09-10-2006, 12:24 AM	#5
67chevy2wd Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New Salem, ND Posts: 1,558	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal If you have a park brake you could lock that, it should hold. Then use and impact it will work way better than a breaker bar. __________________ 07 Chevy classic LBZ Duramax (a few mods) '67 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (in pieces) '69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold) '71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 ‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban

09-10-2006, 05:42 AM	#6
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal I USED A LARGE IMPACT WRENCH ALSO. CAME RIGHT OFF. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

09-10-2006, 05:03 PM	#7
Psycho71 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kaufman, Tx Posts: 827	Re: Help! Rear pinion seal Be sure you tighten it back very tight. Much like it was. That nut is very critical in keeping the wear pattern right on your gear assembly. Too loose and it could allow the pinion to walk into the ring farther than it should be. And if the pinion bearings are worn, overtightening it could pull the pinion back away from the ring effecting it the opposite way. The crush sleeve, inside, IS very difficult to crush (as I learned rebuilding my 12 bolt) but it is possible. Definately use lock tight on the nut when you re-install. And, if possible, get some marking compound and check your wear pattern again. This will, at the very least, give you peace of mind in knowing it is as good as it can be. You can go to Richmond's site and illustrations of incorrect, and correct, wear patterns. It would be much cheaper if you found any issues before you drove the truck. The only way you'll know otherwise is by noise, or broken parts. It's really not that difficult. I was intimidated by rear ends until I dove into mine. Now they really don't scare me anymore. Mine has lasted over 10,000 miles (w/alot of boat towing) with no noise, and no malfunctions. Yet. Jay __________________ You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. If a hammer doesn't fix it, you have an electrical problem! Slot Cars, 1:24 Scale, 100MPH@100,000RPM, fastest things on wheels! Last edited by Psycho71; 09-10-2006 at 05:08 PM.



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