my 65 fleetside build

[flips72]

a few more

[chad64chevy]

cab is looking good, that door isn't that bad, i seen worse!! my uncle is still trying to talk me out of doing the big window, he says i'll get done faster, lol! he said i should look for a big window cab but i done bought the panel and everything for it! keep it up its looking good!!

[flips72]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

cab is looking good, that door isn't that bad, i seen worse!! my uncle is still trying to talk me out of doing the big window, he says i'll get done faster, lol! he said i should look for a big window cab but i done bought the panel and everything for it! keep it up its looking good!!

thanks chad ,yeah im not to worried about the door, i think i can pull most of it with a stud gun. dont let them talk you out of the big window you have come to far to turn back now and i really think you will like it, lord knows i still think its one of the best things i have done to mine.

[flips72]

got lucky today checked craigslist when i got home and found a post for a 60-66 swb fleetside bed for 200.00 i called the guy and he still had it, went and bought it. now i can get rid of the patched up passenger side... ye-haw here is some pics

[flips72]

a couple more, i will have to repair the inner lip, but other than that its fairly straight, anyone need a spare tire holder it had one on each side.

[allaboutchevelles]

Oh Boy , Please tell me your not going to tear into that slick red bed you just finished, LOL just kidding I dont blame you I would want it perfect also. I picked up some slick sand today at carquest to try, so when the weather gets right I can get some primmer on the cab. I started sanding the inside of my cab roof tonight. Good score on the bedside. Keep up the good work.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I will have to look first, but I think Alan said in his thread that he thins it some to spray?

Yes I did reduce mine. A painter told me I could reduce it by 10%. If it's right or not I can't recall. I personally don't see any harm. The reducer evaporates away anyway leaving only the product behind.

That door doesn't look bad at all. You could try a dolly from the inside.

[flips72]

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

Oh Boy , Please tell me your not going to tear into that slick red bed you just finished, LOL just kidding I dont blame you I would want it perfect also. I picked up some slick sand today at carquest to try, so when the weather gets right I can get some primmer on the cab. I started sanding the inside of my cab roof tonight. Good score on the bedside. Keep up the good work.

yeah, i never claimed to be real smart i think you will like the slick sand i noticed in your post you asked about mixing it, the easiest way i found was off the net, they said 12 to 14 drops of hardner to a ounce of material.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Yes I did reduce mine. A painter told me I could reduce it by 10%. If it's right or not I can't recall. I personally don't see any harm. The reducer evaporates away anyway leaving only the product behind.

That door doesn't look bad at all. You could try a dolly from the inside.

thanks alan for the advice on the door, i worked on it some today finished stripping it and repaired the rust spot, and got most of the dent out, decided to stop here because i was afraid i would get it high, check it out and let me know what you think.

[flips72]

heres a couple after i worked the crease

[Alan's Classic]

Looks like you did avoid job on the crease. Have you laid a straight edge on it?

If there are any holes in the rust area after repair will create a bubble of rust later on. The bottoms of the doors are moisture traps.
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[collins10672]

good score on the bed.looks like you have most of the metal work behind you now.

[flips72]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Looks like you did avoid job on the crease. Have you laid a straight edge on it?
If there are any holes in the rust area after repair will create a bubble of rust later on. The bottoms of the doors are moisture traps. Posted via Mobile Device

laid a straight edge on it today it was stii about a 1/4 inch deep so i started hammering on it again then i got it to high so i decided to try the metal shrinking tip that allabout chevelles planted in my head and it worked, its now down to the thickness of a penny, double checked my patch on the front corner, no holes but thanks for the reminder.

Originally Posted by collins10672

good score on the bed.looks like you have most of the metal work behind you now.

i was tickled with the bedside, been looking for a long time,as far as the metal work goes i still have quite a bit.

[flips72]

heres a couple pics of the door, hey alan, did you block your door completely flat from one side to the other, mine kinda rolls over on the front and rear of the door. you can see what i am talking about in the first picture, look at the bottom of the level to the far right.

[Alan's Classic]

Very nice work. To answer your question, I bet if I laid a straight edge on my door it would have the same curve. The most important thing is that appears flat, and lines up with the rocker.
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[chad64chevy]

great buy on the bed! i bought my bed from my cousin for $250! mar-k has the inside bed lips to fix yours, that door looks good too! did your bed come with a tailgate?? i dont know if you want to fill in the 6x9 holes or not but if so let me know, i got an extra pair of doors i can cut them out of for you!! and i got a question what are you using to strip the paint from the doors and stuff??

[allaboutchevelles]

door is looking good!!

[McMurphy]

Wow Flips you did a great job on your door, did you do some shrinking to get it to smooth out for you like that?

[flips72]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Very nice work. To answer your question, I bet if I laid a straight edge on my door it would have the same curve. The most important thing is that appears flat, and lines up with the rocker.
Posted via Mobile Device

thanks alan, any time you can think of something i might not think of please dont be shy, let me know.

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

great buy on the bed! i bought my bed from my cousin for $250! mar-k has the inside bed lips to fix yours, that door looks good too! did your bed come with a tailgate?? i dont know if you want to fill in the 6x9 holes or not but if so let me know, i got an extra pair of doors i can cut them out of for you!! and i got a question what are you using to strip the paint from the doors and stuff??

thanks chad, but i think i will put my speakers back in the doors, it sure did sound good, as far as the paint stripping goes i use a da with 80 grit to strip the flat areas so the dont get warped and sandblast the places i cant get with the da.

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

door is looking good!!

thanks allaboutchevelles

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Wow Flips you did a great job on your door, did you do some shrinking to get it to smooth out for you like that?

thank you McMurphy, yes i did shrink the metal(got the idea from allaboutchevelles) and done a lot of you tube watching...very scary for a novice.

[flips72]

well its 2 am and i just came in from the garage, i did get the door roughed in and a couple coats of slick sand applied maybe tomorrow i can get some serious blocking done. to late for pics, i will post some tomorrow.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by flips72

thanks alan, any time you can think of something i might not think of please dont be shy, let me know.

thanks chad, but i think i will put my speakers back in the doors, it sure did sound good,

thank you McMurphy, yes i did shrink the metal(got the idea from allaboutchevelles) and done a lot of you tube watching...very scary for a novice.

I have to echo that for me too about not being shy!

Flips, before you mount your speakers back in there, look at the rubber foam cups/cones that will cup the back side of the speaker, and mount between the speaker and the door. These will serve a dual purpose.

Firstly they will not only extend the life of your speakers, but will provide much more rich sound quality due to speaker engineering and the physics of sound waves produced in this manner.

Secondly they will protect your speaker from water damage and electrical shorts by keeping the back side of them enclosed so that neither water nor dust and dirt can get on them.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gyGWpGf...r-Baffles.html

I put them in my Tempest and swear by them.

Would you be so kind as to link the ones you thought were the most helpful for me?

[flips72]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I have to echo that for me too about not being shy!

Flips, before you mount your speakers back in there, look at the rubber foam cups/cones that will cup the back side of the speaker, and mount between the speaker and the door. These will serve a dual purpose.

Firstly they will not only extend the life of your speakers, but will provide much more rich sound quality due to speaker engineering and the physics of sound waves produced in this manner.

Secondly they will protect your speaker from water damage and electrical shorts by keeping the back side of them enclosed so that neither water nor dust and dirt can get on them.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gyGWpGf...r-Baffles.html

I put them in my Tempest and swear by them.

Would you be so kind as to link the ones you thought were the most helpful for me?

thanks, i need to look into the speaker cups, and there real inexpensive also, as far as the links to the metal shrinking goes you have to remember your dealing with a 45 year old who knows nothing about computers at all, if it were not for my 14 year old you guys would not be getting any pics at all heck i dont even know how to put my build thread at the bottom of my page like you guys do. anyway just go on you tube and type in metal shrinking thats what i did and there is alot on there. sorry i am so computer illeterate, i would really like to help.

[Alan's Classic]

To put your build in your signature:
1. Open your thread to the first page
2. Right click in the address at the top where it starts "http"
3. Open your User CP (control panel)
4. In the left column click "edit signature"
5. Above the message box click this icon
6. In the box right click in the blue and paste
7. You can leave it like that or you can name it by...
8. Once you paste in step 6 and hit OK there will be a blue high lighted area.
9. Start typing the name of your build. The blue will go away and your text will be intered there. Doo not click in the blue before typing.
10. Hit preview and see what it looks like.

Maybe this will help you.

[flips72]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

To put your build in your signature:
1. Open your thread to the first page
2. Right click in the address at the top where it starts "http"
3. Open your User CP (control panel)
4. In the left column click "edit signature"
5. Above the message box click this icon
6. In the box right click in the blue and paste
7. You can leave it like that or you can name it by...
8. Once you paste in step 6 and hit OK there will be a blue high lighted area.
9. Start typing the name of your build. The blue will go away and your text will be intered there. Doo not click in the blue before typing.
10. Hit preview and see what it looks like.

Maybe this will help you.

thanks alan, i believe it worked. can you add another thread to the existing signature like where i did the big window conversion? sorry to be so much trouble.

[Alan's Classic]

Yes you can. Did you try to name it so it doesn't show the addresses? Did you do it by yourself? Or did you get a youngster to help.
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[flips72]

busted, oh well what can i say i never claimed to be the sharpest tool in the shed would you be interested maybe doing the bedside i got the other day, i am running out of time need to get this thing going.