1971 K20- project just get driveable!!

[DeadheadNM]

As a kid in MN I remember Dutch Elm disease hit the Twin Cities and a lot of trees were lost...

[Vintage Windmills]

Tell me about it... there were antebellum elms here on my property (stumps almost gone now) and after dutch elm, ash was about the only thing that was left. There are some ash here that are 100 y/o now that I'd hate to loose.

[Vintage Windmills]

got the headlights working. Had to replace the foot activated dimmer switch, clean contacts on bulbs, and replace one of them. They are still finicky at the bulb connections but I've got some new connectors on the way.

Now if I could just figure out why the gauge lights never go off...

Also got the back of the cab straightened enough to install rear window.

[Vintage Windmills]

Due for an update.

Got rear window in using rope trick and starting bottom center. Not too hard with that, my bro helping, and soapy water.


Nothing new here, just hadn't shown the finished master cylinder/booster before.


Then ripped out the inner fender and removed entire heating system. Its in terrible shape due to mice but is all going to be made new again:




This is the worst thing I have to fix, shouldn't be too bad:


And some of the parts that went into fixing the headlights. Still need to install the switch. Hope that fixes the always on dash lights
v

[70LonghornCST]

Jud,
Nice project. I can't believe I didn't see this build thread earlier. Subscribed.
-Richard

[Ol Blue K20]

Ya know it's turning out really nice for just getting it drivable...lol..under the hood looks great

[glimmertwin01]

the field mice ruined the heater in my 68 K1500. i ditched the whole thing due to smell and rust created by the urine.... it destroyed the bottom of the exterior heater box and a good portion of the interior box as well... rats nets can be removed...the stench... its invasive and long lasting...

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by 70LonghornCST

Jud,
Nice project. I can't believe I didn't see this build thread earlier. Subscribed.
-Richard

Thanks! I was thinking maybe about pming you or someone to move it to the 4x4 section if those subscribed would stay so.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Ya know it's turning out really nice for just getting it drivable...lol..under the hood looks great

Yep, i figure may as well paint stuff i have off

Originally Posted by glimmertwin01

the field mice ruined the heater in my 68 K1500. i ditched the whole thing due to smell and rust created by the urine.... it destroyed the bottom of the exterior heater box and a good portion of the interior box as well... rats nets can be removed...the stench... its invasive and long lasting...

actually no smell so it must have been dry for a long time. Either way, most everything is being replaced with parts from one of the trucks in my parts yard.

[glimmertwin01]

i would clean and paint the surfaces... i use POR15 to "seal" up things like that and my cowl or any areas you wont readily gain access to. just my opinion... i still like the bugh ochre truck... its bad a$$

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

v

Those headlight plugs look fantastic. I'm gonna have to add those to my list of parts to use now on rather than harvesting old ones or getting cheapies.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by glimmertwin01

i would clean and paint the surfaces... i use POR15 to "seal" up things like that and my cowl or any areas you wont readily gain access to. just my opinion... i still like the bugh ochre truck... its bad a$$

Yep sealing is a good idea, I agree. What is "bugh"?

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Those headlight plugs look fantastic. I'm gonna have to add those to my list of parts to use now on rather than harvesting old ones or getting cheapies.

They are but there is nothing to seal against on the back of the headlight so are just as prone to oxidizing on the terminals. Then again, maybe there is a newer bulb style that they can seal against? My bulbs are way old, at least 25 years.

[Vintage Windmills]

One thing really annoying was the pass door would screech whenever opened. There was no gap between it and the fender. That is now fixed. Look at this nice gap now:


Back to heater stuff. Got the parts yard spare stuff cleaned up. Heater core is brand new.


The under hood fiberglass box is the original, I just scrubbed it and painted it. Absolutely no odor and it was crack free!


Factory #4 didn't come off, even with brass scrub brush!


Fiberglass effect looks really nice actually. I'll take a break when I can get one! Now I'm waiting on the new box to firewall gaskets to come in so I can put back together. Also I am still thinking about how I want to mount screens to keep mice and leaves from entering the blower.

[Vintage Windmills]

Got a lot done on the truck this weekend. Pics in a bit. For now, here's some pics of some nice additions courtesy of Oreillys.

Made in the USA flaps, look at the bowtie color:


and this is fitting as well!

[glimmertwin01]

nice.... was working on my rodent infested heater on the 68 GMC today... Have the OE harrison core here boiling on the stove,,,, then i have to solder the outlet back on as it broke off....

[Dieselwrencher]

You're very lucky the box and heater system doesn't stink. That wouldn't be my luck. I might have to get myself some of those flaps for the horn. Nice work Jud!

[Vintage Windmills]

Patch for rusty spot on firewall:


Done and painted:


New heater resistor:


New gasket and mouse/leaf screen:


Back on:


All done. The blower motor I got is the 15 amp one and it really puts out the air!! Its the AC version but seems to work great here. Its a nice upgrade from stock. It has a hole in the side to hookup a tube to the motor for cooling it I assume, I need to think about that some more, any thoughts? I just put a yellow hyd line cap in there for now:

[Vintage Windmills]

fuel tank from another truck flushed and new sending unit installed:


touched up corner of cab quick and dirty:


installed lights. They wont shut off until I disconnect battery- not sure why

[ryanroo]

looking better all the time!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

installed lights. They wont shut off until I disconnect battery- not sure why

Sounds like your brake light switch isn't adjusted properly. Push it further into the clip to depress the plunger further.

[hgs_notes]

Yep. What Kevin said.

Looking good. Now where are the pics of the new 1?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Sounds like your brake light switch isn't adjusted properly. Push it further into the clip to depress the plunger further.

I unplugged the brake switch and shorted across the terminals with no change. I think its the parking lights especially since the gauge backlights are on also. Could it be a grounding issue? Ive got the two grounding cables disconnected at the moment.

[Vintage Windmills]

Revisiting the list

New things to do:
-Fix washer pump and replace wipers
-Troubleshoot parking lights always on, even with key off!
-Rebuild turn signal and horn switches on column

Must haves to hit the road:
Done- hook up tail and side lights
Done- hook up replacement voltage regulator
Done- figure out why no headlights
Done- install dimmer switch
Done- straighten cab back enough to install rear window
Done- install shocks
Done- patch floor temporarily
- install seat
Done- install gas tank
- replace pass door handle
- install drivers mirror
- change oil
- install front bumper
Done- drill frame for 2nd set of rear bumper bolts (this one was off a C20, which have closer
Done- install new fuel pump and line
- balance tires

Nice to haves:
Done- rebuild heating system (core is plugged big time and fan doesn't run)
Done- route wires for interior cab light
- install grille
- reseal/regasket tcase
- replace bent tcase member
- install Gearvendors I have
- rebuild double cardan joint
- install 285’s
- replace battery tray
- weld trim holes and paint tailgate and install

Long Term Wishes:
- Replace driver door, and both front fenders
- Patch rust in floor
- patch rust above visors or replace roof
- replace inner fenders
- install rear slider
- install floor insulation
- paint front clip and cab to match box.
- Drop the Cummins in there?
- Swap the Dana 61 in front?[/QUOTE]

[hgs_notes]

The headlights and parking lights work regardless of key position. Thats why it will kill the battery. I would guess its a bad light switch. Usually without ground the lights won't come on at all.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

The headlights and parking lights work regardless of key position. Thats why it will kill the battery. I would guess its a bad light switch. Usually without ground the lights won't come on at all.

New switch didn't fix the problem. I can't see where anything is shorting out. Good point on the key switch being independent.

[Vintage Windmills]

Here is the cab roof and radio delete plate i was looking for! I lucked out big time with finding this C20 parts truck. Motor is blown and rust down low in cab and front fenders. Floor and supports are better in the K20 so I wouldn't just swap the whole cab.





And i think this bed could be used in the future for if/when I fully restore the body on the K20. No rust yet that i've found but its full of snow. No rust underneath.