It's here!!

[SunSoaked]

Pro-flo 4. First thing I noticed is that every sensor comes with it's AC Delco part number. The $130 polished aluminum air cleaner assembly with K&N filter is included free with the kit. I didn't need it but, free is free. Stay tuned for an install/review thread. Should have it up and running by the end of the weekend.

[Husker]

Very Nice.
Ron

[53burb]

look forward to the write up!!

[oldman3]

I read alot about the system, glad to have someone on this site to give a review...Jim

[MySons68C20]

Sub'd

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by oldman3

I read alot about the system, glad to have someone on this site to give a review...Jim

over 6k miles in the snow plowing / towing / daily driving my setup on a k30 pickup . i liked it so much i had stickers made for it .

and speaking of stickers let me know if you need a pf4 sticker now to go on the truck and show off the good stuff next to the bad sticker you got from me .

dont forget to run the bypass hose on the intake to h20 pump on the vortec setup or it will girgle and burp the coolant system .

and you can hide most of the wiring under the intake runners with the air gap intake . i did and it was a lot better looking . i did it before i set the intake on .

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

over 6k miles in the snow plowing / towing / daily driving my setup on a k30 pickup . i liked it so much i had stickers made for it .

and speaking of stickers let me know if you need a pf4 sticker now to go on the truck and show off the good stuff next to the bad sticker you got from me .

dont forget to run the bypass hose on the intake to h20 pump on the vortec setup or it will girgle and burp the coolant system .

and you can hide most of the wiring under the intake runners with the air gap intake . i did and it was a lot better looking . i did it before i set the intake on .

I'm curious on your thoughts about the intake gasket that comes with the kit. I didn't have a good experience with the gasket on the current Vortec intake. I have a write-up about it in my post "Vortec heads suck" in this forum.

[sweetk30]

i did exactly as edelbrock said step by step even got there bottle of goop and no leaks so far .

big problem lots of people do is CRANK down the bolts on vortec intakes . the spec is super small NOT like older engines . this tends to blow out the gaskets .

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

i did exactly as edelbrock said step by step even got there bottle of goop and no leaks so far .

big problem lots of people do is CRANK down the bolts on vortec intakes . the spec is super small NOT like older engines . this tends to blow out the gaskets .

Yeah, I just read that it is only 11 ft lbs on the intake bolts

[geezer#99]

[QUOTE=MySons68C20;8678957]Yeah, I just read that it is only 11 ft lbs on the intake bolts[/QUOTE

I’d think the more important info would be the torque pattern.
Do you know what it is?

[MySons68C20]

[quote=geezer#99;8678985]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Yeah, I just read that it is only 11 ft lbs on the intake bolts[/QUOTE

I’d think the more important info would be the torque pattern.
Do you know what it is?

Yes, I do.

[geezer#99]

Care to share!

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Pro-flo 4. First thing I noticed is that every sensor comes with it's AC Delco part number. The $130 polished aluminum air cleaner assembly with K&N filter is included free with the kit. I didn't need it but, free is free. Stay tuned for an install/review thread. Should have it up and running by the end of the weekend.

How goes the project? I'm following your thread closely since my son and I are looking to do the same on his 86 K10.

[jaros44sr]

[quote=geezer#99;8678985]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Yeah, I just read that it is only 11 ft lbs on the intake bolts[/QUOTE

I’d think the more important info would be the torque pattern.
Do you know what it is?

Not sure, but I think it might be inch/lbs CRS

[SunSoaked]

Ok, so I had a chance to spend a few hours on the efi swap today. Mostly removing the current intake. I decided not to use the included fiber gaskets in the kit. Bought some felpro silicon bead type gaskets at Napa. They don't require any sealant except some RTV on the end seals. They also have a dowel or pin in the gasket that locates in a small hole in the heads (at tip of marker in photo).

I cleaned up the intake mating surfaces and set the new intake in place without the gaskets. I noticed the intake had a slight "rock" to it from a criss-cross position. I thought something wasn't square thus causing my intake leak I've talked about on the other thread. However, I taped four identical flat washers on each corner of the head mating surface and the rocking stopped. I verified this by laying a strip of paper on the washers and they were all under pressure when I tried to remove them with the intake on. Turns out the manifold is not exactly parallel on the ends where it mates with the end rail (China Wall). However, that gap is filled with a small bead of RTV, so we're all good.

I also cut the heads off of four 5/16" bolts and threaded these into the four corners of the intake/heads. Since the Vortec bolts are vertical, they worked perfectly as guides when installing the intake. Makes it easy for one person to set the intake without screwing up the RTV beads.

Spent a lot of time routing heater hose, bypass hose and fuel rail fittings to get everything to work together. This was more complicated because I'm using a serpentine drive system. I'll post pics of that tommorow.

[Rickysnickers]

You are going to love this system!!

[MySons68C20]

Looking good!

[tdangle]

Question, I didn't think vortec heads had the heat crossover passages. From your last photo what is the opening in the center of the heads that the gasket is not seaing?

[SunSoaked]

Vortecs do NOT have heat crossover. For some reason that is just a "dimple", a recess about 1/8th deep. No idea why GM put it there. Maybe an artifact from the casting process?

[SunSoaked]

Sorry for the delay. My missionary stepson was home this weekend. Coming from 6 years in Japan and flew out to S.Korea this morning for his next “tour.”

Now, back to the good stuff=Pro-Flo install!

Here’s a couple pics of the intake and the routing of the fuel line rail, bypass hose and other sensors. I'll get better pics of this tomorrow. Didn't realize I forgot good overhead views. Sorry. The black wire conduit is just laying there because I removed from the firewall to do some painting.

Keep in mind I have Dakota Digital gauges. It has its own water temp sender (located in the front of the intake) and also an oil pressure sender (on top of block next the dizzy).

Also- I have converted to serpentine drive (98 5.7). I mention this because it played a role in how things fit together.

Also- I have an Edelbrock Remote Sump mounted in the driver side fender ahead of the wheel well. This is a leftover from the POS Sniper system. It allows me to keep all the OEM fuel system intact from the mechanical pump back. For this reason, I needed the fuel rail input on the front drivers’ side.
So, I got the intake installed and torqued as spec’d by GM. Criss-cross pattern in three passes.

Something like- 62-inch pounds, 107-inch pounds and 11 FOOT pounds. I assume 11-foot pounds is the same as 110 inch pounds? Kinda silly.

After I dropped the new dizzy in, I was like WTF? That things crooked! Its leaning to the d/s obviously. Did some research and it turns out it’s normal. It has about a 3-4-degree slant to it due to the cam being centered in the block and the dizzy gear being offset. Crisis averted. It was just never as noticeable before with the HEI. I also cleaned up and painted the firewall while I had access.

Got the dizzy set in and static times to 12 degrees BTDC as instructed.
Also had to figure out how/where to mount the coil. The coil is not included in the kit. I was taken back when I had to make an old-fashioned coil wire. Thank goodness I saved my leftover pieces from the Summit universal kit. Still, it’s a PITA putting those boots over them terminals!

More to come tomorrow.

I need to call Edelbrock and ask about the dizzy gear. This kit is for VORTEC heads. I put Vortec heads on a Non-Vortec (gen-1) engine. A true Vortec engine should have a roller cam and thus require a different dizzy gear?
BTW, after putting the O-rings on the dizzy shaft it was a major PITA to get it to seat. Those seals are TIGHT!

[sweetk30]

i always read the o-rings on the dist housing were for the modified block were the 2 areas were ground with a chamfer to let the o-rings slid in/out better .

[67C10Step]

Cool write up.

11 ft-lbs is 132 inch-lbs, by the way. Don't want you to short yourself on that final torque.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

i always read the o-rings on the dist housing were for the modified block were the 2 areas were ground with a chamfer to let the o-rings slid in/out better .

Agree. Found that out today searching the web. MSD says not to use them on any stock block. Most aftermarket blocks have been chamfered for them. Mines probably sitting in my oil pan now. Oh well, live and learn.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Cool write up.

11 ft-lbs is 132 inch-lbs, by the way. Don't want you to short yourself on that final torque.

Lol thanks. I never claimed to be good at math. After the second round of torqing in the inch pounds, i switched to my foot pounds tq wrench.

Regardless the dizzy gear. The Edelbrock dizzy comes with a melonized gear that is compatible with iron and steel cams. Were good there. Learning something new everyday.

[MySons68C20]

Looking forward to you getting this fired up this week!