Air / Fuel Ratio Gauge - anybody have one?

[Lugnutz65]

I want better MPG in my 1963 C10 short bed.
Someone suggested I get an air/fuel ratio gauge for my truck.
The truck has a very nice running 1963 230ci with a Rochester B. The engine has even compression of 135-140 in all cylinders and it doesn’t smoke one bit.
Points deletion Pertronix in the dizzy.
The T5 tranny is geared just right with 0.76 OD and my 3.73 rear axle. I have 235/75R15 tires all around.

Anybody use one of these gizmos?

[geezer#99]

While an afr gauge will help you fine tune your carb I’d be more inclined to install a vacuum gauge inside the cab where it’s easily seen and drive to the highest reading.

Like this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Auto-Meter-233.../dp/B00062YVT8

[Lugnutz65]

Yes, a vacuum gauge helps a driver control RPMs and gear selection for better fuel mileage. I’m currently getting 14 MPG and I drive like an old lady. I’ve seen people on here claim 18+ MPG with a factory TOT. I’m thinking I need a better tune on the carb. Different jets? Something I can change to get better AFR.

[Captainfab]

I don't remember the model number but other members with the I6 have changed their carb to a Weber XXX carb and been able to achieve better mpg's.

[Lugnutz65]

Ah, yes! I have a rebuilt Weber 32/36 in the box ready to go. I have all the adapters and parts but then I’d lose a lot of the originality of my engine bay. I know, I know, I want the moon.
I actually had the Weber installed and then realized how much of a domino effect a simple carb change can cause. Need to change the gas pedal linkage and the list goes on.
I’ve decided to keep the engine bay like it is because I’m really happy with how it looks.

[geezer#99]

If you had a carb that was easily tuneable then an afr might help.
You’ll only be able to change jets.
An eddy or Holley would benefit more with various jet/metering rod or power valve changes depending on carb.
Don’t readily believe mileage claims.
I bought a 76 Impala once that the guy said got 16 mpg and burned oil to the tune of a 1000 miles to a quart.
He was wrong on both.
Got 25 mpg and never burned a drop of oil.

[rpmerf]

I have had a couple A/F gauges in my truck.

My first setup was a narrow band setup - $20 o2 sensor, a narrow band gauge, and bit of wiring.

My current setup is a wide band. I bought it probably 10 years ago for my turbo car. The truck is a v8, I have it in the driver's side exhaust pipe. Figure that's good enough. The one I got has a bunch of options. I can watch A/F, RPM, vacuum (had to rig up a map sensor), and datalog with a laptop.

The one you linked is a pretty standard wide band A/F gauge. I had one of those a while back, but sold it because I wanted more options. For tuning like you are looking for, that should be completely sufficient. When you are looking for WOT throttle tuning in a fast car, data logging is more important.

[GASoline71]

I always got worse gas mileage with an I6 because I would put my foot in it more than with a V8 during normal driving.

Gary

[vince1]

I agree because my 250 wasn't delivering on either power or mileage. The whole intake system on the six leaves a lot to be desired.

[BearC10]

I use mine for dialing in my Q-Jet, and testing other tuning ideas. Its from F.A.S.T. really like it. Used with vac ga and small tach.

[burnin oil]

Honestly you will get worse MPG with the gauge since you will be constantly tinkering with it. Also they are a tool and not an absolute and have scew points. They act alot like an engine dyno and dont read accurately down low in the RPMs. Actually its idle but will help with off idle transitions etc. You want a wideband if you decide to do it.

My wideband died a couple years ago and I never replaced it. It's still under the dash right next to my vacuum gauge that I do look at still. I keep saying that I will replace it one of these days until I look at the price of them.

[rpmerf]

WB is really only useful for the initial tune on a carb. Once it's tuned in, they don't have much use any more. If you have a handful of jets, rods, and springs around, you can just swap them around until it feels the way you want it. If you are buying individual jets and rods, it's nice to know how much further you can go - do you want to go 1 size? 2? 3? Really though, you can buy a bunch of $20 jets and rods for the cost of a $200 wide band.

Overall, you do need to go by feel as much as what the gauge reads. Doesn't matter what the gauge reads if it doesn't feel right, or it's misfiring.

[CST10]

Usually a wide band AFR is used for boosted set ups such as turbo or nitrous. I have one in my Camaro because I have a nitrous wet kit installed on the LS1. It is an NGK set up, really a great system. All I ever do is calibrate it a few times a year before racing.

[burnin oil]

you really want it to be a wide band if you are trying to get any info from the gauge. Way more accurate. The main issue is that you tend to quit listening to what the engine wants and go by the gauge.