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Old 10-02-2016, 07:29 PM   #1
JCD
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Carb problem

I've an interesting problem, and I'm seeking advice from any carb gurus out there.
I just picked up a 1972 C10 with a two barrel rochester carb.
The truck runs really badly, and I suspected a vacuum leak, but never encountered anything like this before.
The carb base is still firmly bolted to the manifold, but the carb body is completely loose.
I mean LOOSE.
Three screws have completely backed out, and the fourth is so loose you can lift the carb up a quarter inch.
Is there any way I can remove the base without dropping one or more screws into the manifold?
I was thinking of sliding some sort of thin cardboard between the base and the manifold, but I wanted to hear some feedback from others that may have encountered this before.

Let me know what you think..
Thanks.

J.
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1971 Javelin SST New Project
1971 Demon 340
1969 SS El Camino
1968 SS RS 396 Camaro
1967 Barracuda Formula S
1965 140/4sp Corvair Monza Convertible

Sorry, but I don't do Fords.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:44 PM   #2
custom10nut
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Re: Carb problem

Quick fix is to stuff some thin cloth down into each hole, and that will prevent any screws or hardware from falling down into the manifold. (Believe me, my engine rebuild was a result of me dropping two lock washers down and they ended up embedded on one of my Pistons) then you can take the carb off for a rebuild.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:48 PM   #3
JCD
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Re: Carb problem

Problem is, I can't get access to the manifold holes, without taking the carb plate off..
If I take the carb and plate off without dropping the screws, I won't need to stuff the holes. Thanks for the thought though.

J.
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1972 Custom Deluxe Highlander C20
1971 Javelin SST New Project
1971 Demon 340
1969 SS El Camino
1968 SS RS 396 Camaro
1967 Barracuda Formula S
1965 140/4sp Corvair Monza Convertible

Sorry, but I don't do Fords.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:05 PM   #4
hamjet
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Re: Carb problem

I would think you can make sure the gasket comes off with it, or loosen the four stud nuts and slip a putty knife in from the front or side of the carb under the base to cover the manifold intake holes..
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Last edited by hamjet; 10-03-2016 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:25 AM   #5
prodjay10
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Re: Carb problem

If the screws that hold the carb together are still there why don't you tighten them down then loosen the nuts or bolts that hold the carb to the manifold?
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:54 AM   #6
JCD
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Re: Carb problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by prodjay10 View Post
If the screws that hold the carb together are still there why don't you tighten them down then loosen the nuts or bolts that hold the carb to the manifold?
The screws that are loose, are the ones that hold the baseplate to the carb body.
You can only access them from the manifold side, that is the bottom.
Because three of them are completely out of the threads, lifting the carb off the manifold will make them fall out of the bottom towards the open bores.

With this much of a vacuum leak, I'm actually surprised this motor still runs.
A testament indeed to the designer of the 2G.

J.
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1972 Custom Deluxe Highlander C20
1971 Javelin SST New Project
1971 Demon 340
1969 SS El Camino
1968 SS RS 396 Camaro
1967 Barracuda Formula S
1965 140/4sp Corvair Monza Convertible

Sorry, but I don't do Fords.
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:44 AM   #7
LongBox
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Re: Carb problem

It has to be possible to slip a very thin sheet of metal under the carb-to-manifold gasket, once the carb mounting studs are out. Then, the screws should be retained, and you can remove the carb to fix the problem.
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:11 PM   #8
toolboxchev
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Re: Carb problem

Sometimes I modify, grind or bend a wrench and/or a socket to make it do the work I need it to do.

Think about the tool needed to accomplish the task.
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