Need help with 66 Fawn interior color

[msg]

Im nearing the point where I can paint the interior of my 66 and I want to get the original fawn color. Im new to painting and before i step into the PPG store next week and try to get a close match I tried a search on this site and got this from the astronaut but there is some tweaking and somethings I just dont understand. I do want it to not have a gloss and more of that sheen he is talking about so there isnt as much of a glare when the sun hits the dash. Can anyone recommend to someone new to painting how to achieve this at a PPG store, knowing what to order? And how much paint to order as well for the interior?

Originally Posted by theastronaut

The color is 2003 Nissan Sunlit Sand, code EVO. We did tint it slightly "browner" to get a better match to the original Fawn Poly. It's Spies Hecker basecoat reduced 50%, then added 15% hardener to the total volume. No clear was sprayed over it; this way it has the correct color and sheen, and the hardener helps with durability.

[mongocanfly]

sounds like what he did was choose the nissan sand color...and then had them tint it darker to match the og fawn color....
if you have something that has the original paint just take it with you and they can match or get very close to that og color...ash tray or glovebox lid will work...
he used bc/cc paint and just never sprayed the cc on it..so all he had was paint....with no shine...

[msg]

Thanks Greg, I do have the glove box panel so Ill take that with me tomorrow. The Spies Heckler brand is new to me and I dont know if PPG sells it. Also how much would be likely for an interior, plus some extra for storage just in case I need to redo an area in the future? Ill be covering up the floor with sound deadener and carpet so I think the SPI epoxy primer I have on already should be all I need there.

[theastronaut]

I took the steering wheel to my paint shop and picked out the paint chip that matched the closest based on color, that's how we decided to use the Nissan code. The color is very close without tinting it, close enough that 95% of people would never notice a difference in color. Also, different types of paint will look different after spraying- basecoat only will spray "dryer" than single stage, and the metalic particle orientation will make the paint look brighter/lighter. Single stage will look darker due to the paint needing to be sprayed on wetter, and the metalic particles won't be as bright/noticeable so the paint appears slightly darker/browner without tinting it.

For the correct sheen, you have options no matter which brand paint you use.

With the Spies Hecker basecoat I used, I was able to mix it as an "underhood" application and not have to spray clear over it. This leaves the metalic particles suspended in the paint at the very surface just like the original paint would have been without a clear over the base (clear would make the paint look "deeper"). Adding hardener to the basecoat adds sheen, so you'll need to do a few test panels with different ratios of hardener mixed in to determine the amount of hardener/sheen. It won't have any UV protection this way, the clear is what protects the basecoat from fading. For a show truck/garage queen this isn't a problem, but the color might fade over time on a daily driver. I feel like this is the closest in apperance to the original paint.


If you clear over the base you'll need to add a flattening agent, roughly 15-20% to achieve the original sheen. The exact amount of flattener needed will vary based on brand and how much you're reducing the clear. You'll want to do a few spray out panels. The metalic particles will not be at the surface of the paint, so it won't look exactly like the factory paint did.


I haven't tried using a metalic single stage with flattener added in. I'm not great at spraying metalic single stage and making the metalic orientation the same all over, so I didn't want to attempt it inside a oddly shaped truck cab. It's easier to get the metalic orientation correct using basecoat, so that's what I did. If you try single stage, it'll have the correct look with the metalic particles at the surface of the paint. You'll want to use a slow reducer if you use single stage and you still need to add a flattener to reduce the gloss down to the correct sheen.


On my '66, I'm planning on spraying base/clear, but with a small amount of basecoat mixed into the clear so the metalic particles are at the surface of the paint like the original paint. That way it has UV protection, the basecoat has the correct metalic orientation, and the clear w/base mix is translucent enough that the base shows through but still has some pigment/metalic particles at the surface. Should be very close in apperance and hold up well over time.

[PGSigns]

Are you guys going to do the dark fawn on the dash and light fawn on the rest like 66 came or all light fawn?
Jimmy

[msg]

Thanks for the info Astronaut!

Originally Posted by theastronaut

The color is very close without tinting it, close enough that 95% of people would never notice a difference in color.

As long as its close I'll be happy, my restore isnt going to be completely original but the original look is what I go for mostly.

Originally Posted by theastronaut

For a show truck/garage queen this isn't a problem, but the color might fade over time on a daily driver. I feel like this is the closest in apperance to the original paint.

Id like to have as much UV protection as I can get. Until i get a home with that mongo garage Im dreaming about my autos will have to take turns in a 1 car garage which at the moment is a workshop/paint booth.

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I haven't tried using a metalic single stage with flattener added in. I'm not great at spraying metalic single stage and making the metalic orientation the same all over, so I didn't want to attempt it inside a oddly shaped truck cab.

I dont trust my skills here either, in fact I will be nervous enough to get a metallic to behave. I had originally hoped to shoot saddle on the exterior and after attempting a test panel on seperate days I backed off. Not to say that a solid color wont be difficult for me to shoot in a panel for panel but with the garage space I have to work in thats my only option.

The interior cab, door interior, glovebox, steering column, and gas tank would be shot in one day though so I hopefully stand a better chance of it all not looking totally off. Fingers crossed.

A link to the thread on that attempt. Brian had given me alot of guidance.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=746922

Originally Posted by theastronaut

On my '66, I'm planning on spraying base/clear, but with a small amount of basecoat mixed into the clear so the metalic particles are at the surface of the paint like the original paint. That way it has UV protection, the basecoat has the correct metalic orientation, and the clear w/base mix is translucent enough that the base shows through but still has some pigment/metalic particles at the surface. Should be very close in apperance and hold up well over time.

This sounds interesting, I guess the ratio of basecoat to add to clear will have to be tinkered with.

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Are you guys going to do the dark fawn on the dash and light fawn on the rest like 66 came or all light fawn?
Jimmy

Hey Jimmy, my interior originally looked like this which looks to me to be the light fawn all round so thats what I was planning to do.

[msg]

I went to the PPG store last week and took the glove box panel. The guy who was mixing paint behind the counter saw me with the panel and said "Ive got a formula already for that, thats from a C10 60s right?" I said yes a 66. I asked him about how he recommended painting to get an accurate look and he said "base it and clear..Ive got the clear you will need for that too". I asked about maybe adding a little metallic to the clear to get the right finish and he said not to, "if you get any runs in your paint you will have a mess on your hands trying to correct it". Being a first timer I figure Ill see how it goes without tinkering. Especially after nearly spending $600 on the interior paint and the white Ill need for the roof and other places that a 2 tone gets like the lettering and front end panel.

I took a scrap door I have been testing other paints on and got a test going. Looks pretty close to me, the sheen is different but that maybe a plus to cut the glare down when driving. Here is what it looks like.

Some interior shots.

[msg]

The exterior shots...

[dracko]

This is perfect timing, I’m getting close to spraying my interior as well. That colour looks really good, any chance you can post up a pic of the mix formula or paint code?

[msg]

Illl check with the paint store on Monday. Hopefully he is willing to share it. Its looks pretty close to me as well, the glove box does look slightly different but there is the age to consider.

[dracko]

Yeah it looks to be damn near a perfect match. If you can get the specs I’d appreciate it

[Johns 66]

Originally Posted by msg

Illl check with the paint store on Monday. Hopefully he is willing to share it. Its looks pretty close to me as well, the glove box does look slightly different but there is the age to consider.

Were you able to get the specs on the paint?

[msg]

Originally Posted by Johns 66

Were you able to get the specs on the paint?

Hey John, I forgot to post to this thread but replied PM to Dracko back in April last year. The custom mix wasnt something the PPG paint guru would share but he did give me some hints. Here is what I wrote to Dracko.

I stopped by today and checked with the guy and he said it was just Ford Pueblo Gold. I asked then for the paint code, he then looked it up and checked the mix he had on his sheet and said its not 100% to what he had so he must have tweaked it a bit. He said to most anyone looking at them side by side wouldnt be able to tell that much of a difference. He said Pueblo Gold had a little maroon and black mixed in that he didnt have. But basically its the same. Try a sample of that Pueblo maybe and see what you think.


Also, Ill add that in the match he gave me he recommended the matte finish and had the flexed and flat product. It went on great except the roof corners. I had to sand out the grit and redo but finally got it looking and feeling better to the touch. Here is a thread of the issue I had as I painted the interior.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=771555

[dracko]

My painter wasn’t open to custom mixing so I ended up using the Sunlit Sand straight up but with a satin clear. Paint code KO? And it ended up fine for my liking, pretty stinking close to my old door panels, I’ll try to get a comparison pic. But here’s a few randoms.

[Johns 66]

Originally Posted by dracko

My painter wasn’t open to custom mixing so I ended up using the Sunlit Sand straight up but with a satin clear. Paint code KO? And it ended up fine for my liking, pretty stinking close to my old door panels, I’ll try to get a comparison pic. But here’s a few randoms.

I kinda like this color...is it more silver or more brown...Im looking for a more silver color for mine.

[LostMy65]

From another thread:

Originally Posted by theastronaut

'66 would have been Fawn Poly with Dark Fawn on the dash. The dash paint had a "ruffing agent" added for a slight texture.


Here is the Fawn Poly color. '03 Nissan Sunlit Sand, code "EVO" matches it well.






'66 only Dark Fawn for the dash. This is an unfaded area from inside my original glove box.





Here is a post I found about replicating the '66 texture without using a textured paint.

[mongocanfly]

nothing like good ol blurry pb pics... thanks pb

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

nothing like good ol blurry pb pics... thanks pb

They've absolutely killed all of my older build threads.

[msg]

Stinks, I have referenced your work alot astronaut to have all that great info messed over. My build thread is a mess too, one day Ill redo the thing..still trying to get my truck done

[msg]

Adding to this after noticing a very close match in a spray can to the fawn color on the interior. I was spraying my gauge cluster while restoring it and had a can of stainless steel oem paint from years back. Forgot where I got it but it is super close to that expensive custom mix job I had PPG do for me. If I had it to do over I may have just spray canned it.

[Johns 66]

Originally Posted by msg

Adding to this after noticing a very close match in a spray can to the fawn color on the interior. I was spraying my gauge cluster while restoring it and had a can of stainless steel oem paint from years back. Forgot where I got it but it is super close to that expensive custom mix job I had PPG do for me. If I had it to do over I may have just spray canned it.

There are several places that carry this...I googled the K89091 and it came up...Summitt is 13.99 a can

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-k89091

[Harry Callahan]

Originally Posted by msg

Adding to this after noticing a very close match in a spray can to the fawn color on the interior. I was spraying my gauge cluster while restoring it and had a can of stainless steel oem paint from years back. Forgot where I got it but it is super close to that expensive custom mix job I had PPG do for me. If I had it to do over I may have just spray canned it.

I purchased some of this. Same part number and it's coming out looking silver like a zinc/stainless combo. Yours looks very much like the fawn/gold color I have in my cab. Weird.