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06-06-2018, 02:20 PM | #1 |
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Re: AD wiring
Ok, I got a crimper and a heat gun coming.
So I got the headlight switch figured out. I need a 4 position. I'm not sure what is best for me for the ignition switch.
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06-06-2018, 11:20 PM | #2 |
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Re: AD wiring
Ok so I'm still not clear on my needed amp ratings for my switches. Relays would make the switches need less right?
So far I found through Haywire, a 4 position headlight switch 25 amps. And a 4 position ignition switch 60 amps. Thoughts?
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12-21-2018, 12:42 AM | #3 |
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Re: AD wiring
Talked to Mark at MAD electrical. Nice guy, he will answer any all questions. Ordered some stuff, the relay kit and booklet. He is in the crimp solder insulate camp.
I've used solder before, makes a hard area in wire. I think Marks way is just a tiny bit in the connector but a good crimp is enough right? I don't want to risk overheating my new wires... Got my order in the mail, got a new crimping tool and a new heat gun. Next I'm ordering ignition switch, headlight switch and using his kit I'll order additional relays using part numbers.
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12-21-2018, 01:41 PM | #4 |
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Re: AD wiring
I'd say it's like a good/better/best situation.
Crimp connectors (decent quality) with split barrels = Good Crimp connectors (good quality) with brazed barrels = Better Something like 3M. The plastic around the terminal is also much higher quality, and won't split/crack when crimped Crimp connectors (good quality) uninsulated, solder in, heat shrink over = Best Longevity vs. your budget (money and time) |
05-21-2019, 02:16 PM | #5 |
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Re: AD wiring
A year and a half later and I am going to finally get the wiring started!
I plan to order a few things this Friday and I'll post a list with links before I do to get some feedback. Until then and until the stuff comes in the mail, I have a couple of small things to do. It has been raining the last couple of days and I have discovered a couple of leaks. For example, I didn't think until now to get new wiper seals. I'll also try to start putting the door seals on in the next little while too. I have a much better understand of what I need to do than when I first started this thread but I will still ask a few questions as I go.
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05-21-2019, 04:55 PM | #6 |
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Re: AD wiring
WHAT I NEED
Ignition switch- https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-I...-/263100953341 Headlight switch- http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm/...=prod/prd5.htm Double wall heat shrink- https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Wall-Hea.../dp/B00RC36FWA 68 mustang starter solenoid???- https://www.cjponyparts.com/starter-...65-1973/p/SS5/ Terminals connectors- https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Electrical-Insulated-Automotive-Terminals/dp/B01GXQMP66 I’d like a kit like this without insulation on the connectors. Any suggestions? Bulbs- I can change any and all to LED right? Glove box light- https://www.classicparts.com/1941-53...tinfo/22-705A/ Charger USB port- Ground wires- https://www.classicparts.com/1936-59...ctinfo/43-462/ https://www.classicparts.com/1936-59...ctinfo/43-463/ Headlights-https://www.classicparts.com/1941-81-7-Crystal-Headlight-Bulb-Round/productinfo/54-008/ OR https://www.classicparts.com/1941-81...tinfo/54-003/# Turn signals- Make grill lights turn signals?? Brake lights- still looking at ideas Brake light switch, 1984 brake pedal assembly- https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/l...c10-pickup-rwd Klein tool 1006- Can get at Lowes Speaker- Is the dash one good? Radiator fan- https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-ELECTRIC...K/253110386902 Inner fender grommets- classic parts Firewall grommet- classic parts Gauges, I want these but they are pricey, might use some cheap ones until I save up-https://www.egaugesplus.com/uploads/8/5/2/4/8524701/s689572963557007764_p1801_i1_w1000.jpeg WHAT I HAVE 21 circuit mini from EZ New radio Heat gun Misc cheap crimpers One good wire stripper and a couple others Cleaned up 1970 steering column Neutral safety switch Wire adapter to plug into steering column connector Lights in grill are intact, Make them turn signals?
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05-21-2019, 04:56 PM | #7 |
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Re: AD wiring
Any suggestions or changes I should make?
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05-21-2019, 05:14 PM | #8 |
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Re: AD wiring
sometimes easier to get a headlight switch with a plug in on the back instead of the screw on style, if you ever have to remove or work on the switch it is easier to unplug than unscrew it. unless you leave enough wire back there to let it droop when undone from the dash so it falls below the level of the dash.
some heat shrink vendors sell 4 ft lengths but those are fine too. a good pair of crimpers is a must, try not to use the ones that simply press 2 sides flat. use the non insulated connectors and shrink tube, that way you can see the crimp and then the shrink tube insulates it. |
05-21-2019, 05:33 PM | #9 |
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Re: AD wiring
I have been planning my '47 Panel truck build for awhile, and have just started designing the electrical system. I'll be using an '88 k2500 for the donor, but will retain the stock controls. Here is what I came up with for the stock starter switch and foot starter button. I'll mount the foot button mechanism to actuate a remote mounted momentary button. I have been scouring the web looking for schematics and design ideas, haven't seen something like this though.
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'47 Panel to '88 K2500 Frame Swap Mechanical Speedometer Drive Solution 1947.2 1 ton Chevy Panel 1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV 1990 Chevy K1500 |
05-21-2019, 05:40 PM | #10 |
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Re: AD wiring
I saw a headlight switch like that that came with a plug. That's probably a good idea.
If there a good all around kit that has all the connectors I need uninsulated?
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05-22-2019, 08:13 AM | #11 |
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Re: AD wiring
Not you send you down a rabbit hole, and not necessarily automotive-focused, but places like Mouser or Allied Electronics have the terminals you'll need in any configuration you can imagine, and then some.
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05-22-2019, 08:28 AM | #12 |
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Re: AD wiring
Just thought of adding a terminal block to my buy list. Do I need one or two?
And I also have a headlight relay kit from MAD already too.
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05-27-2019, 12:43 AM | #13 |
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Re: AD wiring
Opinions?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263934674759 There are so many options I'm not sure what is considered good or bad. I want to crimp and double wall heatshrink.
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05-27-2019, 12:54 AM | #14 |
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Re: AD wiring
Or...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264317161841 "The pieces are made from electro-tin plated copper and come packaged in a durable plastic case. Finish your wiring project with a crimp; wire your ends with Pico solderless uninsulated terminals."
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05-30-2019, 02:27 AM | #15 |
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Re: AD wiring
I'm assuming it is good to have these. Here's a picture of a set up. Should I copy it? I'm finding these red and black blocks all over the internet.
Should I have a third one inside for dash stuff? Like gauges? Or does each light or run off one fuse and tied together some other way?
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05-30-2019, 09:54 AM | #16 |
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Re: AD wiring
if you are going to bring power into the cab and feel the need to have a big power block in there then think about the possibility of running a mega fuse near the battery, to start the circuit with a fuse rather than run a large cable through the firewall or floor with no circuit protection until further down the circuit. those big lug style power blocks work pretty well but you need to think about the possibility of a short and if that happens the cable would burn back all the way to the battery or the battery could blow the lid off depending on how much duty it has been going through lately and the amount of gas it is venting. if installing the battery in the cab keep the venting idea in mind. there are some holders that will accommodate a couple of mega fuses if you require that much protection. also, there are bulkhead connectors that would allow the battery cable to be brought through the firewall or floor without the worry of a short from using a grommet.
these are all the reasons why newer cars have a fuse/relay box under the hood. they usually have a mega fuse built in early in the circuit for system protection. mega fuses https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-29.../dp/B001FXL4Q0 https://www.amazon.ca/Bussman-HMEG-B...28707664&psc=1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BOLT-IN...-/151754544690 https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...31qWWiEfCFNw== bulkhead connector https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pro...ad-connectors/ |
05-30-2019, 12:52 PM | #17 |
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Re: AD wiring
I'm overthinking power supply. Power for gauge lights, for example, run through the ignition switch right?
Power to the box. Couple diagrams I've found looks like either power goes from battery to terminal block and then to fuse box or I think one showed power off starter?? To fuse box. I guess power could go directly from battery to box too. So I need a mega fuse or fusible link in between the battery and the box or between battery and block right? The above picture looks like a direct power feed to block and then a fusible link between block and fuse box. It looks like these blocks help with having a common spot for power. I just need to make sure I use the right size wires. I want to use one to run power to my relays, horn, fan, headlights.... My c10 only had one block. The above picture shows two. How many do I need?
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05-30-2019, 08:31 PM | #18 |
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Re: AD wiring
if you wanna bring a big power supply into the cab then use a mega fuse near the battery then run wire to your insulated stud under the dash or wherever. the black ground stud is really not required as long as the cab is grounded well. the mega fuse will protect the power supply to the stud, the stud would supply power to individual circuits each protected by it's own smaller fuse through the fuse panel under the dash (usually).
the issue with taking power from the starter is that it is difficult to get a mega fuse close to the starter in order to protect the rest of the big wire that feeds the stud under the dash. |
05-30-2019, 08:32 PM | #19 |
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Re: AD wiring
if you have an under dash fuse block and wiring harness then just use a mega fuse under the hood, near the battery, to supply that and then use the fuse box under the dash to do individual circuits.
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05-31-2019, 12:55 AM | #20 |
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Re: AD wiring
I called Mark at MAD Electrical again. He said similar to you dsraven. Well, he seems to think fusible links are better.
I spent a long time on the phone with him and forgot to ask if I should use a relay for rear lights. He recommended a separate relay for each of the following parts. Horn, low beam, high beam, fan x2, driving lights, a/c. He recommended relays with a plug with 14 gauge wires and 18 gauge fusible links. He also recommended adding a diode from the alternator. And two terminal blocks, one on firewall with a power feed to dash, and one closer to the front for the lights etc..
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05-31-2019, 01:18 AM | #21 |
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Re: AD wiring
Basically.
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05-31-2019, 01:55 AM | #22 |
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Re: AD wiring
a fusible link is basically a fancy and smaller mega fuse or a short length of wire that is placed in the circuit. the wire is usually a couple of gauges smaller than the rest of the circuit wiring so that section of wire "fails" before the rest of the circuit gets damaged. if it fails that means the wire melted and burned apart so there is no more wire left there just a nub of burnt wire that needs to be replaced for the circuit to be useful again. the other style of fusible link, similar to the mega fuse, used in more modern cars is like a clear plastic box, in the relay/fuse panel, that has a short piece of wire in it of a certain alloy that will melt apart in the same manner. the difference is the box style is easy to replace once you figure out why it melted in the first place. fusible links are meant to handle the quick start up loads of things like heater motors or the like, stuff that would blow a fuse because they would draw more than the fuse is rated for. the fusible link can handle the quick start up draw and then the motor draw becomes less once it is running so the rest of the circuit isn't overloaded. more money and they use a different type of holder. to each their own.
here are a few links to both styles. use relays in anything over 20amps and you will have no problems. heater fan, headlights, rad fan, fog lights, wiper motor, fuel pump, horn, etc. if using LEd lights the draw doesn't really warrant it but then if you don't like LED after and want to change your circuits would be set up properly. there is also the circuit breaker idea but these are sort of a slow burn, like a fusible link, and shouldn't be used in a circuit that is for electronic equipment. the breaker may take a sec to blow and by that time it is too late for the electronic part which is more sensitive to voltage. the nice part is that they will reset themselves. the bad thing is that they will reset themselves even if the circuit is bad. they will keep going until they burn out. https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...54pt/overview/ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FLK-...916592069.html https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1367/Fuses/&pg=27 https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-FLD-...79D6WZW1HA26J4 one here with a good explanation for relay wiring https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html |
05-31-2019, 03:22 AM | #23 |
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Re: AD wiring
Is something like this OK? An inline fuse.
And the box style... you mean the aliexpress link?, is there a plug for that?
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05-31-2019, 03:24 AM | #24 |
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Re: AD wiring
Pic didn't load.
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05-31-2019, 04:46 AM | #25 |
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Re: AD wiring
And dsraven, when you mentioned the crimp connectors... I was unclear if you prefer the tube type, no seam connector or just telling me to watch out for a almost invisible seam.
If I can get a good connection with the tube type and do not need to worry about seam orientation that would be great. But I will get the other type if it's better.
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