Blind Area Rust Removal & Protection

[GranPanteraRoja]

Hi all,

I've finally reached the point on my '65 build for bodywork and I am looking for direction on the best practice to ensure successful long-term metalwork repairs on the cab. My areas of concern are addressing any rusted areas that cannot be seen such as inside pillars, between panels behind the seat, inside the cowl.

Like most of these trucks, I have the common rust spots the need repair on the floors and corners however how do you know that a truck is not rusting from the inside out without drilling spot welds and pulling every panel apart? Did GM paint or coat the backside of these panels during assembly? If the backside is pitted and will rust through in a couple of years what can you do now to prevent it?

I'm torn between what is the best way to get the cab to bare metal to identify areas of concern; sandblasting is by far the most common practice but it only can reach what can be seen, chemical electrolysis stripping will touch every surface and all weakened rust spots will be exposed but how do you protect all those fresh bare metal areas that cannot be sprayed in epoxy primer now?


Any guidance that can be provided would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
-GPR

[tinydb84]

I think it was the 80's before Chevy started dipping things to prevent rust. There isnt much you can do once it is rusted other than replace panels as you find rust. When you have sections removed you can paint what you can see in epoxy or use weldable primer for areas that have to be welded.

Eastwood makes a product that you spray inside of panels with a long plastic tube. It coats things and will slow the rust down. People have used cavity wax over the years as well.

[lupo]

Cab corners , windshield posts can be treated firstly with rust Remover Metal prep. Invest in an engine cleaning gun from Taiwan from Harbor Freight then spray this material in all the hard to reach areas and exposed metal as a metal etch. Bottoms of the doors should be soaked thoroughly let it dry thoroughly. If you use Permanent Rust Sealer reduce the first coat , apply the second coat full-strength. If you use calcium sulfonate like Fluid film use it the same way you want it to penetrate deeply into the wells By dumping rust remover metal prep with zinc has kept my 1999 wheel arches intact here in salt country

[GranPanteraRoja]

Thank you guys, this is why I love this forum. I really like the engine cleaning gun idea and I was not aware of the products listed for other options to prep it and seal the metal. Eastwood's internal frame coating kit should work well on the A pillar without having to cut it apart too.

I appreciate the help in trying to save another truck.

[Rich rodriguez]

I’ve used the stuff from Eastwood called rust encapsulator I also like the POR-15 in a spray can to get inside the pillars, doors, rockers , I bought some 3m applicator Wands to help me get into the hard to reach areas. Keep in mind the Eastwood product and the por-15 is very runny and messy it’s going to come out of every hole and crack..

[lupo]

If you decide to go with the Por 15 use the silver. Silver MCU will always outperform the black.