Project "Financial Burden": 1968 SWB C10

[TA_C10]

No dropbox? Do you think you will be able to get to the battery easily when needed? And in case of needing a jump, are you thinking of installing one of those nice connectors that you end up cutting off one end of battery jump cables and installing the connector? That setup in pretty slick, I would have went that route if I didn't already buy my remote battery jump posts for engine bay.

This is the connector i'm talking about: https://www.zoro.com/anderson-power-...BoCyisQAvD_BwE

Truck is gonna be badazz btw. Nice work.

[SIXTY9]

Thanks for the part number and the info.

[68Gold/white]

I like the 34/78 batteries. I use side post cables. Many folks hate the side post stuff because of leaks, I've never had a leak problem. The additional top posts along with the side posts allow easy jump starting...

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

No dropbox? Do you think you will be able to get to the battery easily when needed? And in case of needing a jump, are you thinking of installing one of those nice connectors that you end up cutting off one end of battery jump cables and installing the connector? That setup in pretty slick, I would have went that route if I didn't already buy my remote battery jump posts for engine bay.

This is the connector i'm talking about: https://www.zoro.com/anderson-power-...BoCyisQAvD_BwE

Truck is gonna be badazz btw. Nice work.

Thanks for the comments TA_C10. My battery setup will be somewhat difficult to install and service. I made a battery mockup out of cardboard and there is no way to install it with the battery box bolted up. The bedside and bedside brace don't allow for much room. And I'm sure twisting a 50lb battery around will be a lot harder than a cardboard box. I'll need to install the battery in the tray, then lift it with a jack up to the frame and bolt the tray on. It's not ideal, but it's worth it to me to have it mounted as high on the frame as possible. I considered a drop box (much like your setup, nice build by the way too!) but I didn't think I could mount it as high up as I wanted. I'll need to give the jump start thing some thought, I had not given that much consideration.

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

I like the 34/78 batteries. I use side post cables. Many folks hate the side post stuff because of leaks, I've never had a leak problem. The additional top posts along with the side posts allow easy jump starting...

Thanks 68Gold/white. I'm just now learning all the battery lingo. I'm not sure I can package the top post with how high up the battery will sit, but that would fix the jump starting question. I'll need to take some measurements from an actual battery to confirm.

[dec010974]

this is an awesome build thread.

[Old_Truck_Fan]

I've been working on the small things lately. I converted my three speed on the column to a floor shift setup with the correct collar. During disassembly of the column, I found damaged threads on the steering column nut. I didn't want to scrap the shaft so I repaired the damaged threads by sizing it down from 1/2-20 to 7/16-20. I also plumbed the gas tank vent/roll over valve (hope I don't need that!). It was a little tricky since the gas tank fill is in the bed floor so the vent is elevated above the floor and nest within the bedside.

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Originally Posted by dec010974

this is an awesome build thread.

Thanks man!

[KMC3420]

Nice fix on cutting my those new threads! Did you turn it down in the lathe?

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Nice fix on cutting my those new threads! Did you turn it down in the lathe?

Thanks. The steering shaft was a bit too long for my lathe, without doing a more involved setup. I actually just rolled the shaft on a table and used my newly acquired air belt sander to remove the old threads and achieve the major diameter for the 7/16-20 thread. After that I just ran a die over the end. I was surprised that it worked out so easily and I had nothing to lose. The belt sander is a harbor freight brand with a 3M abrasive. I wasn't sure how much I would use it, but I've found it's quite handy; especially where a die grinder can't easily reach. It is a bit loud at full speed so ear protection is a must, but overall a pretty good score.

[layinrocker65]

Do you have any more pictures of your turbo manifolds? looks like you used LS3 manifolds.

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

Do you have any more pictures of your turbo manifolds? looks like you used LS3 manifolds.

You have a good eye. They are actually LSA manifolds from a Camaro ZL1. It's the same design as the LS3 from the Camaro SS, they are just cast stainless steel. Here are a few pictures of the modifications. The turbo flanges are T25 and I blended the cut section into the rectangular flange exit before welding.

[Old_Truck_Fan]

One of the last pieces I needed to complete the intercooler plumbing was a merge pipe into the throttle. I looked around quite a bit, but could not find anything off the shelf that I liked so I decided to fabricate something from scratch. I started with a two dimensional template and then made a three dimensional buck to form the part over. It took a lot of time and there were several scrap pieces created in the process, but I'm really happy with the outcome.

[Old_Truck_Fan]

...

[TA_C10]

Looks good man. Educate me on that charge pipe. What is the dual cylinders inside with holes looks like an old 6 shooter cylinder but more holes? Is that tunneling air for velocity?

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Looks good man. Educate me on that charge pipe. What is the dual cylinders inside with holes looks like an old 6 shooter cylinder but more holes? Is that tunneling air for velocity?

Thanks TA_C10. I thought the round stock pieces looked like gun parts too. They were used to make sure the part was sized accurately at the interface to the throttle body (4 inch) and the two up pipes from the intercoolers (2.5 inch). I drilled the radial holes so that the Cleco spring loaded clamps would have space to expand and hold the aluminum pieces during construction. Typically Clecos are used to holed two pieces of sheetmetal together. So the radial holes and associated intersecting drill simulate that effect locally. The entire inner structure was unbolted and removed after I finished welding and smoothing the seams.

[tinydb84]

Wow that is some nice work. I would have never thought to even try to do that. My hat is off to you sir.

[Low Elco]

Very nice!

[1971Stepside]

Dang guys showing off if you ask me!! LOL. Great work and just wow! I need friends like you

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Thanks guys. Here's the finished merge pipe with the connection tubes, support gusset, and blow off valve flange added.

[cornerstone]

That is some fine work man! Beautiful job

[TA_C10]

Am I the only one who sees the string bikini, and she's spread eagle a little far gotta be painful... But yeah, you do nice work

[Old_Truck_Fan]

Thanks guys. I finished up all the welding on the intercooler plumbing tubes and added beads for the hoses using a K2 Bead Roller from Dog Fabrication. I can almost see the finish line to completing all the under hood plumbing.

[layinrocker65]

Looking good!

[KMC3420]

Old_truck_fan have you used that new belt sander for any spot welds? I am curious how it would work to knock down spot welds with the 3m sanding belts. I am considering getting one to use for that purpose. Just looking for some feedback on yours. Thanks.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Old_truck_fan have you used that new belt sander for any spot welds? I am curious how it would work to knock down spot welds with the 3m sanding belts. I am considering getting one to use for that purpose. Just looking for some feedback on yours. Thanks.

Apparently thats the new hot thing to do in the bodyshops. There's probably a vid of it somewhere. I have the same sander, but I like my Blair cutters. Loooove my little belt sander.