LS1/T56 installed!

[BowTieOgre]

Originally Posted by shifty

You gotta realize, the topic of LT1 reliability and problems has been beaten like a dead horse...well, not just a dead horse, but a horse so dead it's nothing but bones with leather stretched over it. FirstGen is an incredibly helpful guy, gave me tons of advice, knows his stuff about engines, programming, internals, boring, customizing, buildups, etc. I don't think he hits the forum as much anymore and I'm sure spending time explaining something that is pretty easily found on google searching for "LT1 optispark problem" is high on his list , although I think he was referring to the problem being problems with the block and/or internals having problems when you try to build them up for power applications.

I hear ya Shifty. I wasnt questioning FirstGen's knowledge or willingness to help others, I was just thanking you for a little more info. I suppose I should thank FirstGen as well for his comment (as old as it may be) otherwise I might not have been pointed in the direction of the Optispark problem page!

[shifty]

Originally Posted by chevybill

Shifty, I have that exact part for my nv3500 and the connection is exactly the same. How are you dealing with mounting the angled cylinder to your straight firewall? How are you going to connect to your clutch pedal and ensure that you do not have to much pedal travel for the hydraulic cylinder?

I do not have this worked out yet. I have been intending to call S&P to see if they manufacture a mounting bracket for our trucks, but have not gotten to it yet.

I don't even know if "too much travel" is an issue with our trucks, to be honest.

[chevybill]

Please tell me who this S&P is. Do they have a website? If you send me a number I will try to contact them.

Thanks

[smbrouss70]

Street & Performance --> http://www.hotrodlane.cc/

[ChevyDude]

Yes Sir!!!! That is, indeed a good feeling!!! Congrats!!!

[onetonk5]

You can get rid of the optispark and put the Dist up top where it belongs.......but it takes work.

[chevybill]

Before you throw the baby out with the bath water, one should check this product out www.dynaspark.net.
I have this distributor in my 94 z-28 and it is an excellent product.

Originally Posted by onetonk5

You can get rid of the optispark and put the Dist up top where it belongs.......but it takes work.

[onetonk5]

simply stating i know of several LT1's with the dist on top....you loose the sequential injection of the LT1 but gain the durability of a gm HEI dist.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by chevybill

Shifty, I have that exact part for my nv3500 and the connection is exactly the same. How are you dealing with mounting the angled cylinder to your straight firewall? How are you going to connect to your clutch pedal and ensure that you do not have to much pedal travel for the hydraulic cylinder?

Thanks

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=130

That's essentially it.

You need to make allowance for 15/16" of of actual rod travel for the clutch to engage, or at least, this is what I grasp.

I realize it's a little far along for a bump, just trying to share in case I'm not around in a few months.

[oscareltemblo]

How is it coming?

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by oscareltemblo

How is it coming?

The original post was almost 3 yrs ago. He has had that truck running for quite a while now.

[shifty]

Actually, the truck is totalled already. Someone rearended him, totalled out the truck, and I think he is putting the engine in a Porsche (unless that's a completely new build).

[SchreinerM]

For the original thread maker (doubtful due to the totaled truck) or anyone who might know. Since you made your own mounts, is there a reason you didn't shift the engine & trans forward for a better shifter position? I assume there would be interference issues somewhere, but just curious.

Second question I'm sure shifty knows. I read your entire LS1tech thread, did you have to switch to the truck pan, or was it just easier? Seems like a lot of coin to spend (pan, windage tray, etc) if it wasn't necessary.

Between great people on this site, and the LS1tech forums I'm learning too much to rebuild my 350.

[shifty]

It was easier (truck pan), and I would recommend it for the sake of clearance. You need the pan, pickup tube and oil dipstick (+tube). I could have gotten it cheaper, but I chose not to do it that way

I thiunk FirstGen mounted it that far back for a couple of reasons: better weight distribution over the axle, more room in front of it (mine is cramped in the front!), possibly to have room for addons later -- and, no doubt, header installation is easier with the engine farther back.

[SchreinerM]

I love this place!

[cowboyup1086]

this is bad@$$

[Frizzle Fry]

reachin way back!

[cowboyup1086]

gotta keep stuff like this ALIVE sometimes lol so they dont get lost.. search feature helps.... lol better than askin ya know... do the searchin then ask if cant be found...

[Ford Assassin]

I am going through a LSx swap myself.

I am going to build a custom Auto Meter dash. Can I tap into the factory wiring harness to make the water temp, oil pressure, speedo, and tach?

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

I am going through a LSx swap myself.

I am going to build a custom Auto Meter dash. Can I tap into the factory wiring harness to make the water temp, oil pressure, speedo, and tach?

you will have to keep the water sender on the drivers side head for the computer but you can tap the pass head for your guage, as for the oil sender you can do the several ways but you can't use the ls harness as far as I know or I was not able to. Let me know if you have any questions.