Yet another spray paint comparison thread!

[Gregski]

OK, I have one more inner fender (ha ha) so I think I am going to do one more test and paint this one the original KRYLON Rust Tough Semi Flat (aka our control, our favorite hue and what started this whole debacle) because to be honest with you I have never seen that paint on a large piece, I have only painted small stuff with it like brackets, valve covers, etc. the air cleaner housing maybe being the biggest piece.

Again to stay consistent I will use the RUST-OLEUM light gray primer, though I realize one of our goals is to see if we can stay in the same brand so ideally we would use KRYLON primer as well.

[Gregski]

speaking of Satin black I accidentally stumbled upon this cheapo Harbor Freight setup Rust-Oleum outdoors paint job by one of our own, so I figure I linky link it here:
My Rustoleum Paint Job Adventure!

[Gregski]

so I told my buddy Pontiac Mike about the little setback with the KRYLON Satin black paint being discontinued and he said Rust-Oleum Satin black is what has worked well for him. To which I replied what? they don't offer a satin black, and then I went a Googling to prove I was right, and I found this, product number: 7777830

Test Result: Too glossy! I honestly feel like this is their Semi Gloss formula just in a different can with a "Satin" label on it.

[Gregski]

so I decided to respray the very first inner fender I painted with that RUST-OLEUM Matte finish that came out with the slight green hue

I used the favorite KRYLON RUST TOUGH Semi Flat on it part # 9203, and it came out Amazeballz! Man I love this paint.

Review: so it doesn't spray / cover as well as the RUST-OLEUMs. It sprays very light and very misty and thin, you have to get used to doing a bunch of light coats, the first coat looks like you shot guide coat for sending

[Gregski]

So I went out and bought out all of the cans that both Pep Boys and O'Reilly's had of the KRYLON Rust Tough Semi Flat 9203.

[rustyrodknocker]

Too bad Coast to Coast hardware is long gone. They had a great line of rattle can paint.
I painted several motorcycles in the 90's with it.
When the stores got fewer I would drive to outlying towns to get it. They didn't seem to keep many cans on the shelf. Some times I would happen by a store and I would go in and buy all the gloss black.

I use a fair amount of rustoleum today. I like to buy the quart cans and spray it out of a siphon feed gun.
The primer does not sand very well. It stays fairly soft and plugs up the paper.

The best satin I think I ever seen was the rustoleum I bought in quarts at the cheapo. I sprayed my suburban with it and it looked great. It lasted a long time. I'm reworking the truck now and its still on the passenger side. It is still in good shape 10 years later. It was kind of hard to wash. It likes to hold dirt and water just beads up on it.

Actually I think I still have a tank Coast to Coast paint. I'm going to dig it out.

[richards72chevy]

I'm curious how the krylon will hold up to the Rust-Oleum.I really like Rust-Oleum my only complaint is it takes forever to dry.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

I'm curious how the krylon will hold up to the Rust-Oleum.I really like Rust-Oleum my only complaint is it takes forever to dry.

five years later (see the very first piece I painted with the Krylon paint back in October 2014 here Restoring Rusty Post #4 still looks good, no peeling, no chipping, no fading, no rust through, I will try and take some pics for you all, need to clean some of the dust off them parts first

valve covers
wheels
front bumper
air cleaner housing
heater box

[Mbeef61]

I know this is an old thread but any new info/updates? I am having some issues painting some parts.

I am painting my clutch/brake pedal assembly. Its taken apart. I wire wheeled the assembly down to pretty much bare metal. I used rustoleum self etching primer I had left over. Gave it about an hour to dry (label says topcoat after 30 min). I topcoated with rustoleum auto enamel and it immediately splotched up like it was a bad reaction. Like orange peel extreme. I guess I should have waited overnight for the primer to dry?

I am going to start over (should be fun cleaning it all again!)

Still going with those paint options? Brown rustoleum rust primer and krylon semi flat? Did you use the cheaper version of the primer and have good results?

Also, with your etching process, you just paint the home depot version on and let it sit overnight?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Still going with those paint options?

Yes sir, I will use the red primer in the cab of my '71 GMC (like the '54 pics below before I painted over it) and just leave it there, with SEM undercoating on the floor, that's how much I love that product and it's color

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Brown rustoleum rust primer and krylon semi flat?

If I'm being brutally honest I started just shooting the KRYLON on raw metal, the super fine print on it reads no primer required unless you want build primer to fill in any tiny scratches

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Did you use the cheaper version of the primer and have good results?

Yes I tried cheaper primer from Hardboard Freight and I had horrible results with it, so never again. Just buy the red primer from Home Depot or Lowe's.

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Also, with your etching process, you just paint the home depot version on and let it sit overnight?

In the summer on a super hot day I only allow it to sit for an hour or as long as it takes to dry, then warm Baking Soda water to wash it off, then hose off the rest, then wire wheel again for funsies. Please do not use Phosphoric acid on springs it weakens them!

[Mbeef61]

Thank you for that info. Looks like I will strip these down and start over. I noticed the cheaper rustoleum version had different chemicals than the auto version so I figured I would ask if they were similar. Glad I asked.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Thank you for that info. Looks like I will strip these down and start over. I noticed the cheaper rustoleum version had different chemicals than the auto version so I figured I would ask if they were similar. Glad I asked.

Really, I wrote and called Rustoleum and they confirmed it was the exact same formula, but maybe it's changed I know they like to mess with stuff, and or California get's a crappier version cause everything MAY cause cancer here.

[Mbeef61]

Yeah I looked at the SDS and information. The solvents are different. I posted the pics. Probably way more info than you wanted to know. I wouldn’t be surprised if the people at rustoleum had no idea what they are talking about. Unfortunately that’s what I have run across trying to get information from big companies.

The first 2 are the regular consumer rust primer and the second 2 are the automotive rust primer

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Yeah I looked at the SDS and information. The solvents are different. I posted the pics. Probably way more info than you wanted to know. I wouldn’t be surprised if the people at rustoleum had no idea what they are talking about. Unfortunately that’s what I have run across trying to get information from big companies.

The first 2 are the regular consumer rust primer and the second 2 are the automotive rust primer

hey first of all great job on pulling those spec sheets, so is one of them for the PROFESSIONAL line of primers that's what I get at Home Depot not this STOPS RUST white can stuff

The Professional one
https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7569838.pdf

The Automotive one
https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/249320.pdf

yes we will drive ourselves crazy trying to figure this out as they don't list the chemicals in the same order, and I think my Automotive sheet does not even match yours, ha ha

[Mbeef61]

One of them is for the “ automotive” red rust primer and the other one is the 7769830 white can “consumer” red colored rust primer that you listed as a cheaper alternative.

It looks like they are similar but not exactly the same formula. Not sure what the effects would be.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

One of them is for the “ automotive” red rust primer and the other one is the 7769830 white can “consumer” red colored rust primer that you listed as a cheaper alternative.

I did? Where, show me, ha ha I thought I said the PROFESSIONAL can

[Mbeef61]

Post #26

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Post #26

you are absolutely correct, and it has that quote from one of their employees, but do you see Post #17, after that recommend that's what I've been using since

can you compare that line to the automotive and if they are the same then I will make an update to Post #26 saying it is NOT the same formula

appreciate you doing all this, I guess I am just too trust worthy

[Mbeef61]

I think the professional looks closer to the automotive can vs the white can but not copy and paste exacts.

What are your current go-tos? Which primer and too coat (I don’t like glossy either)

Also do you have a preferred chassis paint?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

I am having some issues painting some parts.

I am painting my clutch/brake pedal assembly. Its taken apart. I wire wheeled the assembly down to pretty much bare metal. I used rustoleum self etching primer I had left over. Gave it about an hour to dry (label says topcoat after 30 min). I topcoated with rustoleum auto enamel and it immediately splotched up like it was a bad reaction. Like orange peel extreme. I guess I should have waited overnight for the primer to dry?

I am going to start over (should be fun cleaning it all again!)

Oh man that sucks, yeah you can't go by what they say, give the primer plenty of time to properly dry and never ever paint in the winter. I forgot to ask did you use Denatured Alcohol to wash the grease off the metal before primering it?

I painted my pedals and they turned out amazeballz.

Brake Pedal





Clutch Pedal

[Mbeef61]

I used soap and water and then brake clean and let dry overnight. Self etching Primer went on great. But the top coat I used rustoleum auto enamel and it orange peeled bad. You could tell there was a reaction. Like painting bare aluminum. It just spots and pools. I waited an hour and it said 30min. I will do overnight next time.

What was your process for those pedals?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

I used soap and water and then brake clean and let dry overnight. Self etching Primer went on great. But the top coat I used rustoleum auto enamel and it orange peeled bad. You could tell there was a reaction. Like painting bare aluminum. It just spots and pools. I waited an hour and it said 30min. I will do overnight next time.

What was your process for those pedals?

it's been a while but here's what that post says

first pic - original custom Rust Patina

second pic - after using a 4" angle grinder with a wire brush

third pic - brushed on some Phosphoric acid to get into nooks and cranies

fourth pic - not drying paint inside the house on our beautiful hardwood floor, honey

sounds like I maybe did not use primer but I am sure I used baking soda to neutrolize the acid followed by denatured alcohol and then that KRYLON Semi Flat paint

I would just skip the primer and see how the KRYLON paint takes to the metal, go about six super light coats (you should see no color change after the first one, it's just to make it sticky type of thing)

cruise through my Restoring Rusty thread (it's only a 1,000 pages but has a Table of Contents on the first post) I paint a bunch of parts there step by step

[Mbeef61]

Great info. I will surely check it out. I was going to ask about hard to reach places and rust. Sounds like phosphoric acid. I’ll have to experiment with that. Anything to watch for using that stuff? Trial and error? I assume less is better than more

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Great info. I will surely check it out. I was going to ask about hard to reach places and rust. Sounds like phosphoric acid. I’ll have to experiment with that. Anything to watch for using that stuff? Trial and error? I assume less is better than more

wear rubber gloves, use a plastic or glass container for dipping the brush into

Acid cleaning the bench seat frame



using baking soda to wash off the bench seat frame



I like to follow up with a wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder (good high RPMs) a lot of guys use a drill but that is not even close to being as effective

these took five minutes to wire wheel





KRYLON only no primer



and yes the acid got into the nooks and cranies, manual hand wire brushes help, flat screw driver as a scraper helps, use what ever you gots bro

[Getter-Done]

I have learned alot from this thread Gregski.

Thanks.

One thing I could add that may help Mbeef61

I worked in a Plant plant for a Few years,
For a Major manufacture of Automobiles.

They would give us a (Crater Test)
They would paint a Panel and hold it below our shirt sleeve.
Then shake our shirt sleeve and if the paint fisheyed it was Us causing the issue.

If a certain kind of underarm deoderant was used
or Armor-All or Tire shiner was on a persons clothes,

It would cause Paint defects down the line.

Also if any hint of silicone sealant is in the area will cause an issue with paint quality.