Rockers install - On or Off the cab?

[TA_C10]

Is it ok to go ahead and install the rockers on my doors before I put the cab back on the frame? I have the cab sitting on jack stands under the cab frames right now. Does this matter?

If it does matter, what if I relocated the jack stands under the body mount holes and then installed the rockers?

Or does it need to be on the frame?

Thanks in advance.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Is it ok to go ahead and install the rockers on my doors before I put the cab back on the frame? I have the cab sitting on jack stands under the cab frames right now. Does this matter?

If it does matter, what if I relocated the jack stands under the body mount holes and then installed the rockers?

Or does it need to be on the frame?

Thanks in advance.

I would recommend on the frame with new cab mount bushings installed and bracing inside the cab. For bracing I use 3/4" conduit.

LockDoc


LockDoc

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I would recommend on the frame with new cab mount bushings installed and bracing inside the cab. For bracing I use 3/4" conduit.

LockDoc


LockDoc

If that's the case, do you think I could go ahead and turn the can on it's nose, finish the cab supports, clean and scuff, shoot my primer on underneath of cab, shoot my ceramic lizard skin, then put the cab on frame and finish the rockers? Or do I need to do rockers first before shooting paint under cab?

Thanks,
Tom

[rayce88]

Well the inner rocker is spot welded to the outer rocker ... So if you finish the bottom out in lizard skin , when you spot weld the two together your gonna burn through the undercoating ... I did my outer rockers off the frame , cab sitting on a wood frame I made that rolls ... I leveled it and sat it on the cab supports ... Hung my doors and installed my rockers ... Then laid cab on it back , on the wood frame , and finished the bottom and undercoated ... Then set it on the frame ... worked perfect and door gaps never moved ...

[darrellyates]

My floor, rockers, everything to the cab except final poly primer and final bodywork were done off the frame. I didn't have any issues, and nothing moves. Of course, for floor work, the cab was cross braced, but after the new floor went in, the bracing was removed.

No problem on mine anyway...

[54blackhornet]

Am I wrong ? I was told to remove doors to properly install new outer rockers.

[rayce88]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

Am I wrong ? I was told to remove doors to properly install new outer rockers.

You have to have the doors on to set the bottom gap ... Believe me you want the doors on ... Tack them in place then remove doors to do proper spot welds

[darrellyates]

Could be I've been doing it wrong. I was taught to hang the doors prior to installation of outer rockers, as you actually use the door lines to line up the rockers. I was taught to do this on cars, and I see no reason why trucks are any different. Doors were hung, lined up with the body lines, prior to installation of the outer rockers. You do the same thing with a car body, even hang the doors prior to installation of 1/4 panels. You set the body lines of the doors to the original pieces, then leave the doors and line the new pieces up with the doors. Any welding/grinding fitment doesn't change because you "pin" the doors to the body (drill holes and use alignment pins) so everything goes back exactly after paint...

At least, that's how I was instructed to do it...

[AussieinNC]

Maybe I am just old fashioned...

Any cab repairs I perform are always off chassis and on my jig....

The jig I built mirrors the factory frame dimensions and drops....

It also has adjustable spreaders to allow setting the door opening width to spec...and match side to side....it also allows the doors to be mounted and aligned and locked in place to allow accurate placement of the rockers...doors should be in place to ensure accurate body lines...and to ensure the doors can close!!!! (Fixed two cabs in last few months because the doors would catch on the rockers!!!)

I always check door gaps before I start any body repairs ....however the exercise becomes a waste of time if the cab supports are shot...as the cab will twist throwing off the body lines...

Check cab supports for both rot and collapse of the rubber supports....
Check floor pan area especially where firewall meets floor pan for rot...
If the cab has bad cab supports and bad floor pan where it meets the firewall...the cab gets a full new floor ! Yep, I know its more money...but a huge saving in time and you know its going to line up right....

Check lower A pillar areas for rot especially inside where vent panels opening is located...repair panels are available but must be accurately replaced.

Check upper windshield internal area for rot...repair panels are available but must be accurately replaced.

Check bottoms of doors for rot...repair panels are available but must be accurately replaced.

Check door hinge mount plate areas for cracks...(common)

Check vent window cross piece between inner and outer panels for cracks (common)...

Hope this helps....

[TA_C10]

Thanks all for the great info. Check back soon on my build thread below as I am posting all my work with pics. I may or may not build a 4x4 frame to support. I have a jig I built to pick the cab up with my cherry picker so it may just be easier to just sit the cab back on the frame rather than build another frame... Either way looks like I will be ok.

I plan to mount the doors as I do each rocker to make sure my gaps are correct, tack a few spots to hold the rockers and then remove the door and finish up the welds.

By doing this I believe it will benefit me to measure from the floor up to the door body lines to try and get the doors nice and level so when I put the fenders and bed on they will all match up nicely and minimize any kind of slant I may create. But centering the doors in the cab should be enough actually...

[Grumpy old man]

I have a few different height racks on wheels to move them around .The doors will come off and back on a number of times aligning everything and there are a lot of areas you just can't reach easily working on the frame alone . I don't set the cab back on the frame until it's painted .

[TA_C10]

Well right now I have this setup. I bought some car movers from harbor freight and then cut and attached angle iron to the tops to hold my jack stands. This allows me to move the cab around while I work on it. However, I was under the impression this wouldn't be a good setup to install my rockers...

I dunno....

[AussieinNC]

Suggest you grab some hollow rectangular tube, say 3x2, and make up a support frame using the cab mount areas and holes as reference points. Then mount your new frame on the wheeled movable dollies you have.

Also suggest you lift the height of the mounting frame up a bit...to about 18-24 inches off the floor...this will allow you a little more working room under the cab....

Hope this helps...

[Andyking1203]

I installed my rockers while my cab was on jack stands, I leveled the cab, put the door on set the gaps, marked the cab, then removed the door and went to town.. better pics in my build thread.