How are you restoring hardware, springs, hinges etc

[bubbasimms]

I have posted this before looking for ideas on protecting hardware and misc parts, things you don't really want to paint, parts that wear and move. Things like hood hinges, acc brackets, door strikers and striker plates, springs, linkage rods etc. I'm not asking about cleaning the parts. I too do the usual, degrease, wire wheel, media blast etc. What are some options, besides paint, for coating these parts? I have done some phosphate coating and some manganese phosphate coating and oiling with decent results. I'm wondering how this will protect and last in a driver. I'm thinking zinc phosphate for the light colored items and manganese phosphate for the darker stuff. does anyone have any tips, tricks or ideas? Paint on these parts looks like poo almost immediately.

[67chevemall]

Once the flat black dries my truck drips with oil from everywhere. I soak it now Valvoline and wd40

[B. W.]

Subscribed - I've phosphate coated bolts and hardware. I'm going to throw some outside & see how they handle the weather. I don't think they will hold up well. On the other hand, these are original bolts & hardware, might have been rusted but they lasted this long.

67 chevemall - I keep the underside of DD well oiled!

[samkost]

I have worked for a local large airplane company for 31 years..
They had developed this product years ago.
https://boeshield.com/automotive-motorcycle/
Periodic use/maintenance keeps parts protected and lubricated.
It is safe for paint, plastic, rubber, fiberglass or vinyl. I have had good luck with it.

Two videos for you:
Boeshield and a product called RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) that looks impressive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMJL...pOY3&index=132

Salt water test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhQE-y9nj4Y

I am going to try RPM out in restoring my master brake cylinder, some OE nuts/bolts hardware and any other exposed metals.
Interesting product to try to hopefully maintain a natural finish after sandblasting some OE metal parts.

[Red71gmc]

Samkost, thanks for sharing that. Those look like good products.
I can see several uses for those on my soon to be truck rebuild and for my farm machinery also. Looks like an excellent product to use for out of season storage of fertilizer applicators. No matter how much you power wash that machinery they will rust even when stored inside because of the salty fertilizer embedding in the steel and crevices. I always spray everything with a oil and diesel fuel mix and it helps, but doesn't cure the problem.
I think you just sold some gallons for them. I am ordering some.

[samkost]

Your welcome Red,
The products are a tad pricey, but if they work though, I'll be happy if they curtail the dreaded rust and crud.
Trying to keep under the hood and suspension parts looking fresh after our rebuilds/restorations is a challenge.
Hopefully the RPM product will measure up and perform like they state.
I will be trying some on my C10 parts.
Good luck,
Sam

[Jacoby]

Powder coat

[bubbasimms]

I've seen the Boeshield T-9 used as the oil after a maganese phosphate treatment. That RPM looks like a viable candidate also.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

All my basic hardware that wasn't damaged or pitted was black zinc plated. Same with replacement hardware. I'd have preferred zinc phosphate coating like original, but I didn't want to send the parts out. That said, black zinc plating looks real nice with the powder coated frame and that. Supposedly zinc plating is more corrosive resistant than zinc phosphate coating, but don't quote me on that.

I had most of the retainers clear zinc plated, such as for brake & fuel lines. Not sure it's right, don't know why it wouldn't be, but the rear brake parts like adjuster plates and struts were clear zinc plated as well. Same with the E-brake hardware.

My hood hinges and springs were powder coated, and I'll probably have the hood latch done the same. Zinc phosphate is probably best for those parts, but again, I didn't want to send them out.

If by "manganese phosphate" you mean you've used cold oxide, the parts look nice but there's little corrosion resistance.
Even professionally processed manganese phosphate has inferior corrosion resistance to zinc phosphate coating. There are many misconceptions about the various types of plating/coating. I don't believe any of the parts on these trucks were manganese phosphate. Some good info. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_26.htm

Images of black zinc plated hardware with a powder coated frame, batch of clear zinc & black zinc plating.

[samkost]

That's some impressive hardware Tony!
Nice work
Thanks for sharing.
Sam

[bubbasimms]

By manganese phosphate coated I'm referring to what I think is essentially the same as parkerizing. It's not just a cold phosphate dip. It's done at around 190 degrees then the parts are rinsed, dried and oiled. I've done some parts and they turned out nice and have kept well in the unconditioned shop, where rotors and drums will slowly rust up. But how will they do when exposed? A semi annual wipe down with oil is supposed to be enough to keep them nice but I haven't heard from anyone with first hand experience.

I do my parts and hardware in small batches as I need them. It's easier for me to keep track of what's what. I wouldn't know where to send them to get them professionally plated and if I sent everything in at once it would be a pain to sort what bolts went where, and I'm cheap. All I know is paint or powder on hardware and on parts that are supposed to be "raw" looks terrible.

Just looking for some magic

[bubbasimms]

That link on Mustangs leads me to believe I need to investigate the zinc phosphate.
Very informative guys, interested to hear more.

[Red71gmc]

Originally Posted by samkost

Your welcome Red,
The products are a tad pricey, but if they work though, I'll be happy if they curtail the dreaded rust and crud.
Trying to keep under the hood and suspension parts looking fresh after our rebuilds/restorations is a challenge.
Hopefully the RPM product will measure up and perform like they state.
I will be trying some on my C10 parts.
Good luck,
Sam

Along with farming I have a Hardware Store. I decided to inquire about being a dealer for their products. They contacted me right away and they have been trying to expand in the ag market. I do think this product has a place with my customers if it works as advertised. I like selling products I personally use.

Over $100 for a gallon may seem pricey but if it would prevent some very expensive repairs it would be well worth it to the fertilizer dealers and farmers. Nothing worse than having a narrow window to apply tons and tons of fertilizer and having a break down from major corrosion. Costly repairs and lost income. That equipment usually has a very short lifespan before its all just shot.

This is a very informative thread of what people are doing. Good heads up on the product. Thanks

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by samkost

That's some impressive hardware Tony!
Nice work
Thanks for sharing.
Sam

Thanks. Suppose I'm lucky most of the parts were still nice, but so much work. Should have bought a tumbler. I replaced a lot of the suspension hardware, and the bolts for the manifolds and oil covers. Doesn't take a lot of miles before much of that can use replacement, never mind these are 50 years old. NOS or correct replacement engine bolts are available, and NOS comes real reasonable.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

By manganese phosphate coated I'm referring to what I think is essentially the same as parkerizing. It's not just a cold phosphate dip. It's done at around 190 degrees then the parts are rinsed, dried and oiled. I've done some parts and they turned out nice and have kept well in the unconditioned shop, where rotors and drums will slowly rust up. But how will they do when exposed? A semi annual wipe down with oil is supposed to be enough to keep them nice but I haven't heard from anyone with first hand experience.

I do my parts and hardware in small batches as I need them. It's easier for me to keep track of what's what. I wouldn't know where to send them to get them professionally plated and if I sent everything in at once it would be a pain to sort what bolts went where, and I'm cheap. All I know is paint or powder on hardware and on parts that are supposed to be "raw" looks terrible.

Just looking for some magic

Parkerizing is far better than cold oxide. Can't say how resistant, but strikes me it would be good. I'll bet it's a GREAT way to finish hinges, latches and springs. Bonus is they should be oiled anyway.

So yeah, like you I separated my hardware by application. The bonus of smoking cigarettes was packs are the perfect box. But again, I had all the hardware plated, YIKES...........I ended up listing all the parts into Excel and my assembly manual, right down to the casting mark. Not healthy, don't do it.........I'm kidding. At least you know. Takes a while to locate the parts, but it's progressively more better. After all, 1500+ pieces are black zinc As a beginner, I never imagined there could be 10+ aspects to a single bolt.

Agree on your point about paint. I've never seen powder on H/W, but it strikes me as a bad idea.