Painting Frame, what paint to use? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

>X< · 04-30-2002, 09:44 PM

i know this comes up alot, what paint do i use for my frame, i am getting it blasted and i want a durable shiny black paint to paint it with, VHT chassis black?, i was told this was a good paint, just curious to what yall used?i will be spraying it myself with a hvlp spray gun, will it spray, or will i have to reduce it?

Low69CST · 04-30-2002, 11:36 PM

Your best bet would go to an auto paint store and get some black enamel, or a chassis paint. This way you could get about a gallon in bulk and save some money.

------------------
'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims
Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER.
See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/
Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky.
Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8
My Dad's projects:
72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
Both 350 autos restored original

stmoore · 04-30-2002, 11:59 PM

first spray it with epoxy primer, then with a single stage urethane black. It will be really durable. You won't need to sand the primer as long as you paint it within the time window (usually 7 days).

JW · 05-01-2002, 01:08 AM

If you are doing a frame up, try this. Steam clean all parts, scrub with solvent, apply a metal etcher, sand blast. Priner with and epoxy primer. For the finish coat use "Emron" (not sure of the spelling)paint. Emrom is a very caustic paint, use a mask. Have used this on my Corvette race cars, last forever, even brake fluid will not damage or peal this paint.

Or have it powdercoated.

------------------
72 Cheyenne Super, Fleetside, Shortbed,
Original Owner, Special Ordered
350ci/340hp, Auto Trans, 3:70 Posi, Tow Package
Northern Calif

sevenwonder · 05-01-2002, 01:58 AM

por-15,, lot of guys here tell me to use it says it rock hard and looks good.check out the web site for the www.por-15.com I think it is. Think I'll use it. Starting the frame off job myself.

RAGIN68 · 05-01-2002, 04:56 AM

I just painted my frame with por-15 and it does come out nice but I would recomend spraying it instead of brushing it. Also they are not lying about getting this paint off your hands. It doesnt wash off. You have to wear it off.

------------------
68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/??? 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs

**Bernie** · 05-01-2002, 08:11 AM

Be very careful indeed if you use Imron. Use a fresh air system rather than a mask even when mixing it.

johnnyp · 05-01-2002, 08:34 AM

I went with POR-15. I was more interested in rust prevention than beauty. A shiny, perfectly painted frame is a thing of beauty, but unless your building a trailer queen, how long will it stay that way? The first time I got caught out in the rain, it would look like every other frame on the road.

I wouldn't sand blast before using POR-15 as it actually needs a little rust for proper adhesion. If you're going to put it on bare metal, you need to apply an etching material first. If you spray it, you need to wear an organic vapor particulate respirator.

Here's my frame after applying POR-15 with a brush:

------------------
72 Sierra Grande - "Maych"
sierraG on some boards

If a man speaks in the middle of a forest and there is no woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?

Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.

Maych Home Page

slam33 · 05-01-2002, 10:01 AM

I used GM Resto Black over red oxide primer, turned out great. You can get a gallon of it for around $35. It's that egg shell black that looks factory.

------------------
71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

</A>

darrel_s · 05-01-2002, 10:10 AM

Just finished sandblasting to bare metal and putting two coats of por-15 on mine. Going to wet sand and top coat soon. Looks great. I would use a sprayer. GIves a little more even coat.

------------------
http://www.forsakenproductions.com/1971_K5

**MJN** · 05-01-2002, 10:59 AM

Try Eastwood Rust encapsulator with Chassis Black on top. www.eastwoodcompany.com I have heard good things about this stuff and am applying it to my frame this weekend.

dubie · 05-01-2002, 11:09 AM

I am going to affordable way. I will be using a wire wheel on my grinder to buff the rust off, spray it with a metal primer (red oxide) And then rattle can with some Rustoleum or Tremclad black.

------------------
72 C/10 LWB 2wd
250 inline 6, 3 speed column shift. Soon to have a total facelift.

BubbaGreen · 05-01-2002, 12:55 PM

anyone try 'zerorust'
I purchased some spray cans (black) from
their website www.zerorust.com
The stuff goes on nicely and dries to a
very durable satin black. I am going to
have my frame sandblasted very soon and
have been thinking of using this stuff,
should be very easy to touch up.
I painted my entire front end components
with POR-15 and it looks great, brushed it
on, those warnings about how toxic POR-15
had me a little scared to even think about
spraying it on. another note about POR-15,
is states on the can to recoat within 3-5hrs
or else you should scuff it up and apply
their top coat paint...this seems like it
might be difficult to touch up down the road
if need be. Anyway, my thoughts are to
clean up the frame with sandblasting, give it
one coat of the red oxide color and come back with a second coat of the black.
Comments anyone?

------------------
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

texnician01 · 05-01-2002, 01:02 PM

I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer on mine after sand blasting it. then painted it with flat black and smoke gray rustoleum. I'm not sure how well it will hold up though cause I havn't had it on the road yet.

Nathan

------------------
1969 C-10 292 I-6 4 spd in the middle of a restoration. going to get a 327 and 3.07 gears but keeping all of the original parts so I can put it back to original later on down the road.
55 chevy 4 door 150
47 Willys CJ-2A

diggin69 · 05-01-2002, 01:11 PM

You could try this wire brush or sand blast..primer, then spray it with epoxy paint you can pick it up at a hard ware store.. I used this on my 69... on the core support, head light rings, & the frame it is the same stuff they use on washers&dryers..& fridges.... I have dropped thies part, knocked them off benches & non of them ever chipped...it does a great job & is glossy it sprays great ....I never had 1 run or sag...

Diggin 69

bluec10 · 05-01-2002, 08:50 PM

Go Por-15 all the way. The stuff a tough clean-up, but their claims of being "hammer tough" are true all the way. I pressure washed my frame, cleaned it with solvent, and applied two coats of por-15 with a brush. I looks great and you don't see any brush marks.

------------------
Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4
Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope.

Sledge · 05-01-2002, 09:26 PM

I tried POR-15. I scrubbed most of the frame spotless then solvent cleaned it and brushed on 3 coats. Looked good for almost a year, after which the stuff just pulled off in sheets. I think I over prepped the surface because it stuck well to the hard to clean spots. If you go that route, be aware that it can be finicky about prep (both too much & too little).

Be *very* careful if you spray it, it's hardened with isocyanates just like Imron (and other urethanes) so you should have a supplied-air respirator.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 05-01-2002, 11:41 PM

I use Hammerite Rust Cap. It is extremely hard when cured and is UV proof. It was designed for outdoor rod iron fences and steel yard furnature so it has proven itself for many years. I have had it on a frame that has sat outside in the weather for almost 4 years and it looks great still. You can buy it at your local hardware store also. It cost about $11.00 a pint here. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

------------------
Click (Here) to visit our on-line catolog.
E-mail me WEHEPP@attbi.com
72 BB Chevy Blazer
72 BB Chevy Short Fleet
72 SB 3/4 Ton 4X4
72 SB 1/2 Ton SWB 4X4
70 BB Chevy Short Step
70 SB Chevy Short Fleet
69 SB Chevy Short Step
68 SB Chevy Short Step
68 BB GMC Long Fleet
67 GMC 1/2 ton Panel
"Founder" Classic Heartbeat Pickup Club
Olympia, Washington's "Home For Wayword Chevys"
www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

WK Irish · 01-03-2003, 08:15 PM

Seanh71:
Guess you've seen just about every possible recommendation from your fellow forum members, which is good!
I'd like to simply followup on Bubbagreen's comments that he'd tried Zero Rust on his project and has also used POR products.
Take a look at a side-by-side test of these two products on an ocean going rig by going to:
http://zerorust.com/aubodystorepics.htm which test Len Stuart of www.autobodystore.com did to satisfy himself and his many forum members as to the ability of ZR to withstand some nasty conditions.
ZR's Ease of use, inexpensive, aerosols or bulk, can be brushed, rolled or sprayed, UNLIMITED shelf life, No Isocyanates to complicate your life, 2000+ hour salt spray cabinet test results and most importantly for DIYer's who don't have ownership of the latest & greatest shop equipment, it is not finicky as to the amount of prep work required. Neither do you need to suit up with a fresh air supplied paint suit to protect yourself as one should do when spraying most if not all two component paints and the POR products as they DO contain Isocyanates!
There's also a product review that John Milliman wrote up some months ago on his stovebolt site at:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru...ust_review.htm .
Check us out as an alternative...
HTH
WK Irish

RED72blazer · 01-03-2003, 08:50 PM

Wes is right!! I used Hammrite on the frame of my gto and a bunch of small parts. Its sat outside for a year, After i cleaned all the dirt off, it looked like brand new!

RED72blazer · 01-03-2003, 08:53 PM

not that their is a right answer to this question, but hammerite works very good.

**Palf70Step** · 01-03-2003, 09:06 PM

Mine isn't a frame off, but I am wire wheel/brushing it. Using a rust encapselation. then I'll be doing glossblack rustolium. Like Johnnyp said, if its a driver, I'd worry more about protection and durability, then the slick look.
Mine is getting the economy man's treatment until it's day of frameuping....many moons from now I hope.

our64 · 01-03-2003, 11:19 PM

I used hammerite on my streetrod after cleaning well and lightly blasting some and wire brushing some. It is 4 years old now and still looks great..Thats if you are willing to get underneath and spend hours cleaning the frame after each time you get caught in the rain. I will be using it again on my 64

04-30-2002, 09:44 PM	#1
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,483	Painting Frame, what paint to use? i know this comes up alot, what paint do i use for my frame, i am getting it blasted and i want a durable shiny black paint to paint it with, VHT chassis black?, i was told this was a good paint, just curious to what yall used?i will be spraying it myself with a hvlp spray gun, will it spray, or will i have to reduce it? __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

04-30-2002, 11:36 PM	#2
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	Your best bet would go to an auto paint store and get some black enamel, or a chassis paint. This way you could get about a gallon in bulk and save some money. ------------------ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER. See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/ Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky. Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8 My Dad's projects: 72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super 72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super Both 350 autos restored original __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

04-30-2002, 11:59 PM	#3
stmoore Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: South Carolina Posts: 129	first spray it with epoxy primer, then with a single stage urethane black. It will be really durable. You won't need to sand the primer as long as you paint it within the time window (usually 7 days). __________________ steve moore

05-01-2002, 01:08 AM	#4
JW Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Carmichael, Ca Posts: 67	If you are doing a frame up, try this. Steam clean all parts, scrub with solvent, apply a metal etcher, sand blast. Priner with and epoxy primer. For the finish coat use "Emron" (not sure of the spelling)paint. Emrom is a very caustic paint, use a mask. Have used this on my Corvette race cars, last forever, even brake fluid will not damage or peal this paint. Or have it powdercoated. ------------------ 72 Cheyenne Super, Fleetside, Shortbed, Original Owner, Special Ordered 350ci/340hp, Auto Trans, 3:70 Posi, Tow Package Northern Calif __________________ 72 Cheyenne Super, Fleetside, Shortbed, Original Owner, Special Ordered 350ci/340hp, Auto Trans, 3:70 Posi, Tow Package Northern Calif

05-01-2002, 01:58 AM	#5
sevenwonder Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Shady Spring,WV Posts: 37	por-15,, lot of guys here tell me to use it says it rock hard and looks good.check out the web site for the www.por-15.com I think it is. Think I'll use it. Starting the frame off job myself. __________________ 70 short,step on a 72 frame.

05-01-2002, 04:56 AM	#6
RAGIN68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Houston Posts: 28	I just painted my frame with por-15 and it does come out nice but I would recomend spraying it instead of brushing it. Also they are not lying about getting this paint off your hands. It doesnt wash off. You have to wear it off. ------------------ 68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/??? 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs __________________ 68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/????.... 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs

05-01-2002, 08:11 AM	#7
Bernie Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 516	Be very careful indeed if you use Imron. Use a fresh air system rather than a mask even when mixing it. __________________ Bernie

05-01-2002, 08:34 AM	#8
johnnyp Keepin' It Stock Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Grand Island, Nebraska, USA Posts: 554	I went with POR-15. I was more interested in rust prevention than beauty. A shiny, perfectly painted frame is a thing of beauty, but unless your building a trailer queen, how long will it stay that way? The first time I got caught out in the rain, it would look like every other frame on the road. I wouldn't sand blast before using POR-15 as it actually needs a little rust for proper adhesion. If you're going to put it on bare metal, you need to apply an etching material first. If you spray it, you need to wear an organic vapor particulate respirator. Here's my frame after applying POR-15 with a brush: ------------------ 72 Sierra Grande - "Maych" sierraG on some boards If a man speaks in the middle of a forest and there is no woman around to hear him, is he still wrong? Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time. Maych Home Page __________________ 72 Sierra Grande - Maych Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.

05-01-2002, 10:01 AM	#9
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	I used GM Resto Black over red oxide primer, turned out great. You can get a gallon of it for around $35. It's that egg shell black that looks factory. ------------------ 71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A> __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

05-01-2002, 10:10 AM	#10
darrel_s Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Denver, CO, USA Posts: 212	Just finished sandblasting to bare metal and putting two coats of por-15 on mine. Going to wet sand and top coat soon. Looks great. I would use a sprayer. GIves a little more even coat. ------------------ http://www.forsakenproductions.com/1971_K5

05-01-2002, 10:59 AM	#11
MJN Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn Posts: 2,965	Try Eastwood Rust encapsulator with Chassis Black on top. www.eastwoodcompany.com I have heard good things about this stuff and am applying it to my frame this weekend. __________________ '51 South Bend Model "9A" '56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO '74 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20-restored on 37's '72 GMC Sierra Custom K2500- in progress '08 GMC Envoy Denali '12 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali '17 GMC Yukon XL VCCA member #58596 http://www.nohrco.com

05-01-2002, 11:09 AM	#12
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	I am going to affordable way. I will be using a wire wheel on my grinder to buff the rust off, spray it with a metal primer (red oxide) And then rattle can with some Rustoleum or Tremclad black. ------------------ 72 C/10 LWB 2wd 250 inline 6, 3 speed column shift. Soon to have a total facelift. __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

05-01-2002, 12:55 PM	#13
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	anyone try 'zerorust' I purchased some spray cans (black) from their website www.zerorust.com The stuff goes on nicely and dries to a very durable satin black. I am going to have my frame sandblasted very soon and have been thinking of using this stuff, should be very easy to touch up. I painted my entire front end components with POR-15 and it looks great, brushed it on, those warnings about how toxic POR-15 had me a little scared to even think about spraying it on. another note about POR-15, is states on the can to recoat within 3-5hrs or else you should scuff it up and apply their top coat paint...this seems like it might be difficult to touch up down the road if need be. Anyway, my thoughts are to clean up the frame with sandblasting, give it one coat of the red oxide color and come back with a second coat of the black. Comments anyone? ------------------ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73 See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

05-01-2002, 01:02 PM	#14
texnician01 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: 12 Miles South of Des Moines, Iowa Posts: 359	I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer on mine after sand blasting it. then painted it with flat black and smoke gray rustoleum. I'm not sure how well it will hold up though cause I havn't had it on the road yet. Nathan ------------------ 1969 C-10 292 I-6 4 spd in the middle of a restoration. going to get a 327 and 3.07 gears but keeping all of the original parts so I can put it back to original later on down the road. 55 chevy 4 door 150 47 Willys CJ-2A __________________ 69 C-10, 340HP 327 55 chevy 4 door 150 47 Willys CJ-2A 05 Harley Night Train 06 1200 Sportster (Wife's bike) 70 Honda CL350 OIF2 & OIF7 Veteran Nathan & Tiffany

05-01-2002, 01:11 PM	#15
diggin69 Southern but in Ohio!!!! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Eaton,Oh. 45320 Posts: 467	You could try this wire brush or sand blast..primer, then spray it with epoxy paint you can pick it up at a hard ware store.. I used this on my 69... on the core support, head light rings, & the frame it is the same stuff they use on washers&dryers..& fridges.... I have dropped thies part, knocked them off benches & non of them ever chipped...it does a great job & is glossy it sprays great ....I never had 1 run or sag... Diggin 69 __________________ 1969 C/10 3/4 ton 4x4 longbed custom, frame made from a 79 1972 custom-10 half/ton longbed 1980 1/2 ton 4x4 all original 350/350/205 with air Eaton,Oh rebelryder@hotmail.com



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05-01-2002, 08:50 PM	#16
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Go Por-15 all the way. The stuff a tough clean-up, but their claims of being "hammer tough" are true all the way. I pressure washed my frame, cleaned it with solvent, and applied two coats of por-15 with a brush. I looks great and you don't see any brush marks. ------------------ Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4 Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

05-01-2002, 09:26 PM	#17
Sledge Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 21	I tried POR-15. I scrubbed most of the frame spotless then solvent cleaned it and brushed on 3 coats. Looked good for almost a year, after which the stuff just pulled off in sheets. I think I over prepped the surface because it stuck well to the hard to clean spots. If you go that route, be aware that it can be finicky about prep (both too much & too little). Be very careful if you spray it, it's hardened with isocyanates just like Imron (and other urethanes) so you should have a supplied-air respirator.

05-01-2002, 11:41 PM	#18
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	I use Hammerite Rust Cap. It is extremely hard when cured and is UV proof. It was designed for outdoor rod iron fences and steel yard furnature so it has proven itself for many years. I have had it on a frame that has sat outside in the weather for almost 4 years and it looks great still. You can buy it at your local hardware store also. It cost about $11.00 a pint here. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com ------------------ Click (Here) to visit our on-line catolog. E-mail me WEHEPP@attbi.com 72 BB Chevy Blazer 72 BB Chevy Short Fleet 72 SB 3/4 Ton 4X4 72 SB 1/2 Ton SWB 4X4 70 BB Chevy Short Step 70 SB Chevy Short Fleet 69 SB Chevy Short Step 68 SB Chevy Short Step 68 BB GMC Long Fleet 67 GMC 1/2 ton Panel "Founder" Classic Heartbeat Pickup Club Olympia, Washington's "Home For Wayword Chevys" www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

01-03-2003, 08:15 PM	#19
WK Irish Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 7	Zero Rust Seanh71: Guess you've seen just about every possible recommendation from your fellow forum members, which is good! I'd like to simply followup on Bubbagreen's comments that he'd tried Zero Rust on his project and has also used POR products. Take a look at a side-by-side test of these two products on an ocean going rig by going to: http://zerorust.com/aubodystorepics.htm which test Len Stuart of www.autobodystore.com did to satisfy himself and his many forum members as to the ability of ZR to withstand some nasty conditions. ZR's Ease of use, inexpensive, aerosols or bulk, can be brushed, rolled or sprayed, UNLIMITED shelf life, No Isocyanates to complicate your life, 2000+ hour salt spray cabinet test results and most importantly for DIYer's who don't have ownership of the latest & greatest shop equipment, it is not finicky as to the amount of prep work required. Neither do you need to suit up with a fresh air supplied paint suit to protect yourself as one should do when spraying most if not all two component paints and the POR products as they DO contain Isocyanates! There's also a product review that John Milliman wrote up some months ago on his stovebolt site at: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru...ust_review.htm . Check us out as an alternative... HTH WK Irish

01-03-2003, 08:50 PM	#20
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	Wes is right!! I used Hammrite on the frame of my gto and a bunch of small parts. Its sat outside for a year, After i cleaned all the dirt off, it looked like brand new! __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

01-03-2003, 08:53 PM	#21
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	not that their is a right answer to this question, but hammerite works very good. __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

01-03-2003, 09:06 PM	#22
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,644	Mine isn't a frame off, but I am wire wheel/brushing it. Using a rust encapselation. then I'll be doing glossblack rustolium. Like Johnnyp said, if its a driver, I'd worry more about protection and durability, then the slick look. Mine is getting the economy man's treatment until it's day of frameuping....many moons from now I hope. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

01-03-2003, 11:19 PM	#23
our64 http://public.fotki.com/street Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Canada Posts: 169	I used hammerite on my streetrod after cleaning well and lightly blasting some and wire brushing some. It is 4 years old now and still looks great..Thats if you are willing to get underneath and spend hours cleaning the frame after each time you get caught in the rain. I will be using it again on my 64

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