1967 Chevy 327 Alternator Setup

[Chaparralman1974]

Good morning everyone!

Does anyone have any pictures of the proper alternator setup for a 1967 Chevy 327 with no A/C or powersteering? My K20 had a motor from a 68 chevelle or other car at some point grafted into it. My water pump pulley (short pump) is a dual groove pulley that is not correct as far as I know. My 327 has no accessory holes in the heads and I am running what I think is the stock rams horns manifolds with the mounting bolt holes that face foward. The challenge that I have is that the alternator pulley doesn't seem to line up with the water pump and crank pulley. It is off by about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Additionally, the upper brace doesn't have enough travel in it to properly adjust the belt tension. Also, the alternator only has a small amount it can move forward due to the valve cover. Can anyone shed some light on this?


Thanks, Clay

[67C10Step]

Interesting. What you have in your photos looks just like the setup in my 67 with stock 283. I'd guess the setup would be the same since you have the short water pump. I can get some photos of mine if you would like.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Interesting. What you have in your photos looks just like the setup in my 67 with stock 283. I'd guess the setup would be the same since you have the short water pump. I can get some photos of mine if you would like.

If you could, that would be helpful. I would imagine that the 283 and the 327 were the same mounting-wise. Also, on yours, does the lower bracket that attaches to the water pump do so with a stud or with a bolt. When I use just a bolt, it looks like it makes the bracket slightly cockeyed. I am wondering if that is the problem with my pulley alignment?? If there was a stud there in place of the bolt, then it would push the bracket out by 3/16" or so. I have been looking on the internet for pictures, and I see that some used bolts and some used studs.


Thanks, Clay

[MySons68C20]

I don't know if this is helpful but I bought mine from Alan Grove.

https://alangrovecomponents.com/index.htm

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

I don't know if this is helpful but I bought mine from Alan Grove.

https://alangrovecomponents.com/index.htm

These are interesting....If I can't figure out the alignment issue, then maybe this is the route to go.

Thanks!
Clay

[54blackhornet]

As far as the alternator belt issue, you could get a shorter belt or shorten the adjustment arm and re drill it.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

As far as the alternator belt issue, you could get a shorter belt or shorten the adjustment arm and re drill it.

The problem is that I would actually need to lengthen the upper brace. I only have about 1" of travel between the alternator hitting the valve cover and the end of the groove in the brace where you put the bolt. It is almost as if the arm is too short for this setup. But I can't seem to find an arm with the same radius as this one but longer than 14" if that makes sense.


Clay

[67C10Step]

Here is the best photo I got from my setup, which I have to believe is stock as everything else under the hood was when I go the truck.

The lower bracket does connect to the water pump with a stud and my digital caliper showed 0.214" from water pump face to backside of bracket. The alternator belt looks like it is not running square but I think that is just an oddity of the angle of the photo. I've driven this truck over 3000 miles since getting it running with this setup.

You will also notice my truck has power steering. That was a recent addition with and Alan Grove power steering pump bracket and add on crank pulley. I'd recommend Alan Grove as everything fit like a champ.

If you need more measurements, let me know.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Here is the best photo I got from my setup, which I have to believe is stock as everything else under the hood was when I go the truck.

The lower bracket does connect to the water pump with a stud and my digital caliper showed 0.214" from water pump face to backside of bracket. The alternator belt looks like it is not running square but I think that is just an oddity of the angle of the photo. I've driven this truck over 3000 miles since getting it running with this setup.

You will also notice my truck has power steering. That was a recent addition with and Alan Grove power steering pump bracket and add on crank pulley. I'd recommend Alan Grove as everything fit like a champ.

If you need more measurements, let me know.

Thank you much!!! This helps a ton! I also found a water pump stud in my spare parts can....I don't know where it came from but it measures what you have verified.

If you don't mind, can you tell me if there is any kind of washer or spacer or anything that sits in between the bracket that bolts to the manifold and the alternator itself? This is on the lower alternator mount where it bolts into the boss that is part of the casting on the manifold. I think that the alternator just goes in between the bracket and the cast iron of the manifold boss, but wanted to verify.


Thanks, Clay

[Chaparralman1974]

For clarity, here is what I am referring to. I put a few washers in there to shim it back and forth as I play around with the bottom mounting, but it does not seem right to me.


Clay

[67C10Step]

You are correct on the mounting to the manifold. No extra spacers, directly bolted to the manifold. You can see the bottom bolt in the photo. The upper goes through the alternator into the upper threads on the manifold.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

You are correct on the mounting to the manifold. No extra spacers, directly bolted to the manifold. You can see the bottom bolt in the photo. The upper goes through the alternator into the upper threads on the manifold.

That is what I thought. Thank you! My alternator has a bunch of play at the bottom. Upon closer inspection, I did see that the lower alternator bracket was welded at some point, so I suspect that it broke and was repaired. Corvette Central has a replacement, so I will likely get a new one. I am replacing the alternator as well, but have been mocking everything up to ensure I get it correct.


Thanks, Clay

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I have the same setup with AC and PS. A lot of folks with neither seem to mount the alt on the right side instead, so if you have to fab/order a bracket anyway, maybe look at that option

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

I have the same setup with AC and PS. A lot of folks with neither seem to mount the alt on the right side instead, so if you have to fab/order a bracket anyway, maybe look at that option

I was thinking about that, but I will be adding A/C in the future, so I am thinking that the driver side will probably remain for my truck. The alternator is still awful close to the valve cover, but until I get a new belt and check it, I am just guessing as to where it needs to be.


Clay

[67C10Step]

One thing for sure, getting it sorted with the front clip off is the way to go. You can get up close with ease.

I’d bet a new lower bracket will solve some issues. I can measure the length of my upper bracket if you think that would help.

[dmjlambert]

What type of alternator is it, or can you show a picture of the back of the alternator?

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

One thing for sure, getting it sorted with the front clip off is the way to go. You can get up close with ease.

I’d bet a new lower bracket will solve some issues. I can measure the length of my upper bracket if you think that would help.

If you could, I would appreciate it. Mine brace is about 14". and that is not measuring the curve.


Clay

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

What type of alternator is it, or can you show a picture of the back of the alternator?

It is an externally regulated one. Here is a picture of it.


Clay

[dmjlambert]

OK regarding "upper brace doesn't have enough travel in it to properly adjust the belt tension," that is a 10DN alternator clocked to 12:00. When they are clocked to 3:00 as in the factory setup, it will get quite a bit closer to the valve cover. That is what that huge indentation in the side of it is for, allowing it to hug the valve cover. Example of 3:00.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

OK regarding "upper brace doesn't have enough travel in it to properly adjust the belt tension," that is a 10DN alternator clocked to 12:00. When they are clocked to 3:00 as in the factory setup, it will get quite a bit closer to the valve cover. That is what that huge indentation in the side of it is for, allowing it to hug the valve cover.

THANK YOU!!!!!!

Now it makes sense! I couldn't for the life of me understand how this was so close. The original valve covers were smashed in when I got the truck, so I just figured that someone put an aftermarket brace on it and beat the hell out of the valve cover.

I am going to get an internally regulated alternator as an upgrade. I am assuming that I can just unbolt the alternator housing and clock it properly??


Clay

[dmjlambert]

Yes, I think so but I haven't done one. Clocking will be useful just for the external regulated alternator. When switching to the internal regulator type such as 12SI, it doesn't have the indentation and clocking won't matter, and you'll be back to having just a short adjustment span.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Yes, I think so but I haven't done one. Clocking will be useful just for the external regulated alternator. When switching to the internal regulator type such as 12SI, it doesn't have the indentation and clocking won't matter, and you'll be back to having just a short adjustment span.

Ok, that makes sense. I will likely stay with the externally regulated one for now. I found a video on YouTube that shows how to clock it. I will try it and then report back.


Clay

[54blackhornet]

I apologize for the thought about shortening the upper adjustment arm. Not thinking correctly.

[dmjlambert]

I don't know if it applies only to other engines with accessory holes in the head, but I have seen posts here on the forum about the 1972-only upper alternator bracket being longer and different shape that allows for more adjustment room.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

I apologize for the thought about shortening the upper adjustment arm. Not thinking correctly.

I was willing to try anything to see if it would work. :-)


Clay