Project: 1966 Stepside LWB

[b2948kevin]

Here are some pictures of the engine compartment right now without the engine.

[b2948kevin]

Here are some pics of the SBC 350 that I picked up. I am going to spend some time making it look nice. I am also going to be checking some wrecking yards for some nicer parts for this. I would like to get an aluminum intake manifold, and some decent valve covers.

Anyone suggest that I pull the heads as a precaution to double check the engine condition?

[b2948kevin]

I know I need to get some motor mounts for this. The pics below show what I have. Will I need anything different for this?

Edit: I just realized that Captain snuck a reply in there while I was uploading all of these pictures. I will keep the question here for others, if they have other feedback. Thanks for the quick reply!

[CVA59]

I went with the original 64-66 283 V8 mounts on mine. That way you can use the original mount perches.

[b2948kevin]

So, it sounds like I don't really need anything in the way of motor mounts for this. I will be experimenting with these tomorrow.

I will be calling around for a Flywheel for the 1 piece rear main tomorrow.

Question for Captain: I see that LMC sells a full clutch kit with everything I will need for the clutch, throwout bearing and bushing here:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=79

I assume I will need the 12 inch kit for the 327?

[b2948kevin]

Just a quick note that I have a starter for a 168 tooth flywheel. I will be calling around for a 168 tooth flywheel for a 1 piece rear main today.

Also, my original flywheel is 168 tooth also, so bummer that the inside bolt dimensions don't match up.

[Captainfab]

I would suggest getting a clutch kit at your local auto parts store. It isn't anything special because it is going into a '66 Chevy truck. You just need a basic clutch kit for a '63-'87 truck. As for what size to get, I would wait until you locate a flywheel and see what size it is drilled for. An 11" clutch will work just fine for what you're doing.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

So, it sounds like I don't really need anything in the way of motor mounts for this. I will be experimenting with these tomorrow.

I will be calling around for a Flywheel for the 1 piece rear main tomorrow.

Question for Captain: I see that LMC sells a full clutch kit with everything I will need for the clutch, throwout bearing and bushing here:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=79

I assume I will need the 12 inch kit for the 327?

[b2948kevin]

Thanks for fielding my noob questions, Captain

I went and bought a flywheel and clutch kit from O'Reilley auto parts down the street today. They had everything in stock ready to roll. I ended up with a 12" clutch, and I brought my flex plate from the 350 in to double check that the bolt patterns would line up.

I did an engine degrease treatment to the 350 today on the stand in my garage. It was messy, but I think it will be helpful in the long run.

I also tried to do a compression test on the engine. I pulled all the plugs, hooked my tester up, and turned the motor clockwise using the bolt on the main pulley (harmonic balancer ?). I couldn't get a single reading on any of the 8 cylinders. Anyone have a similar experience? I am told that the engine hasn't run in 6 months when the truck it came out of was pulled into the yard and parked. (I know, I know...)

Am I hosed? Do I need to pull the heads, or am I doing something wrong?

[Captainfab]

I have not tried to do a compression test by turning the engine by hand. I think you need to spin it faster, as in with the starter. If it has only been sitting 6 mos, it should be fine, as long as it was when it last ran.

One thing I forgot to mention. You are going to need longer flywheel to crank bolts. The flexplate bolts won't be long enough.

[b2948kevin]

Hey guys, I wanted to put in a quick post to let you know that pictures are coming. I got the 350 in place finally, but I don't have the pictures yet. Stand by.

Also, the sock exhaust manifolds didn't fit, so I am looking at getting some Hedder 69260s per CaptainFab's recommendation in the thread below. Anyone have other suggestions, or are these what I should be going with?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=headers

[Captainfab]

The Hedman 69260's will be a quick and easy install. The Hedman 69090 and Hooker 2452's will fit also, but will require a little work with the clutch linkage. Nothing too serious though.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I'm overdue for an update.

About 3 weeks ago a friend of mine and I attempted to put the engine in. We put the new flywheel, and clutch kit on, then lifted the motor, dropped it in the engine bay and tried to get it fitted up to the bellhousing and transmission which we hadn't pulled. We got it really close, but something was off. We couldn't get the engine to bolt up quite right, so the next weekend we pulled everything back out, including the transmission, and discovered that the starter that came with the 350 was too big. I swapped it out with the old one that was on my old 250 core and everything bloted up. We then dropped the engine + trans into the engine bay and got everything bolted back up.

One tip: make sure to loosen up the engine pillars before hand as you will most likely need the extra wiggle room to make sure that things will fit after all the heavy stuff gets let go.

[b2948kevin]

Captain, thank you for the recommendation. I bought the Hedman 69260's and they came in yesterday. I didn't get a chance to install them yet, but they look good. I plan to get these fitted up tomorrow sometime.

[Captainfab]

Yeah, you can't use a style of starter other than the bellhousing mounted starter if you use the original style bellhousing. Glad you figured it out and got your engine installed. You will want to remove those plug wire shields, and the spark plugs before you install the headers.

[b2948kevin]

Yeah, the pics are actually before we pulled the engine again. I was going to use the stock exhaust manifolds, but they didn't fit. I have pulled the shields and the plugs since then.

Tomorrow I plan to get the clutch linkage and headers on.

What should I use for a carb and radiator? I need to get busy looking for these. My radiator isnt in great condition and I want to make sure I have one that will cool the new power plant.
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[Captainfab]

If you're keeping the cast iron intake, you would be best off with a older Quadrajet. If you would like to change to an aluminum intake, then you would want a 600 cfm either Edelbrock or Holley carb.

As for a radiator, I would check your local auto parts store for an original replacement for your truck with a V8, ie: 283 or 327. You will want a 3 row core radiator. Then next you will need an original style fan shroud. They aren't exactly cheap, but well worth the price for not having cooling issues. Those can be found at most of the usual truck restoration parts suppliers. I prefer dealing with Classic Parts. If you can't get a radiator thru your local auto parts, Classic has them as well. Another option is several guys here on the forum have had good luck with the aluminum replacement radiators found on ebay. They can be purchased as just the radiator, or as a package deal with either single or dual electric fans.

[smilts60]

I would more than slightly suggest you go with a new aluminum intake and 600cfm carb as Captain Fab suggested. the edelbrock performer series is fairly cheap. heck if you were closer I have a couple of extra 600cfm carbs laying around.

[b2948kevin]

Hey Smilts, there you go twisting my arm...

Ok, I have decided that I need to get an Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. Here's the problem: I don't know what year my engine is. It's between 86 and 94, but it looks like a lot of the Chevys were running TBI during these years. I don't want to buy something that doesn't fit.

Can anyone help me to identify which Edelbrock Performer Intake and Performer carb numbers I should be using for this?

The casting number on the block is 14101148, which a google search indicates 86-94 year 350, 4 bolt main with a 1 piece rear main seal.

[Captainfab]

By looking at the pics, I would say your engine is an '86. That is because it has the perimeter bolt valve covers. So you should be able to use the Edelbrock Performer #2101 which fits '55-'86 heads. To verify this, look at the 2 center bolts on each side of youe current intake manifold. If they are sitting flat against the intake just as the other 8 are, then you have the '86 and older heads. If the center 2 bolts on each side appear to be at a different angle than the other 8, then you have the newer heads, and will need the Edelbrock Performer #2104. As for a carb, a 600 cfm will be plenty for your engine.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

Hey Smilts, there you go twisting my arm...

Ok, I have decided that I need to get an Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. Here's the problem: I don't know what year my engine is. It's between 86 and 94, but it looks like a lot of the Chevys were running TBI during these years. I don't want to buy something that doesn't fit.

Can anyone help me to identify which Edelbrock Performer Intake and Performer carb numbers I should be using for this?

The casting number on the block is 14101148, which a google search indicates 86-94 year 350, 4 bolt main with a 1 piece rear main seal.

[b2948kevin]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

By looking at the pics, I would say your engine is an '86. That is because it has the perimeter bolt valve covers.

That's what I suspected! I did a bunch of research on the differences and how to tell them apart and one of the differentiators that came up is the "Canted Center Bolts" on the intake manifold.

Here are some additional pictures as a confirmation that the bolts are not at a different angle:

[b2948kevin]

Here are some pics of the new headers and fuel pump. I bolted the passenger side headers in good, but I am leaving the driver's side only mocked up for now until I get the clutch linkage installed. I suspect that I will be pulling this to get into that area. Clutch linkage rebuild parts are scheduled to be in tomorrow.

I also put a new dipstick in to replace the really long one that was on this setup.

BTW, I know that the engine compartment looks like trash. The first place I am driving this is to the carwash to powerwash everything.

[b2948kevin]

So, as you can see in a prior post, I pulled the intake manifold today. Here are some pics of the inside.

There's some dirt and grime in this area. I will clean it out. You should have seen the radiator when I dumped it out.

Speaking of radiators, I have the original Harrison 3 core 24" (for the V8 if I am not mistaken). I dropped it off to a radiator shop today to get it tested and see if I can get it in better condition. I should hear sometime tomorrow.

[b2948kevin]

Here are some pics of the intake that came off of it. I believe that the loop that you see in the center cavity is a heated choke. Can anyone confirm? I'd like to go with an electric choke on the carb I put on.

[smilts60]

Looks like your on the right track with everything. Those headers look good to. The Edelbrock parts will take care of everything def for the 86 btw..
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[Captainfab]

OK, so the Edelbrock 2101, or any '55-'86 intake will work for you. And that 'loop' in the original intake is the heat tube for the original style choke. If you want an electric choke, that isn't a problem. If the aftermarket intake you choose doesn't have the blockoff for that port, you can purchase one or make your own. That engine looke really clean inside, aside from that little bit in the valley. That should clean right up. I see that engine also has the provisions to run the factory roller cam, should you choose to.

Looking at your electric fuel pump, is that for carburated applications or EFI? It is possible you will have to plumb in a fuel pressure regulator, to keep the fuel pressure down to an acceptable level for carburators. Especially if you go with an Edelbrock carburator.