Drug a 4 Eye Home.

[uncle]

Not a lot of rust but plenty of dents. 327/glide with ps,pb and a/c.

[uncle]

2222

[uncle]

3333

[uncle]

4444

[68Gold/white]

Since I'm not a GMC nerd (Have only had Chevrolets) what year??? I know it's not a 67...

Very nice!!!

[BROWN 70]

hi, dig the gmc. welcome to the 4 eye club. 1968? with air. how cool BROWN 70

[weq92f]

.

Nice truck!

Flip fa ya...

-klb

[Old_Gold]

Love it, and great to see another 4 eye!
Plans for it??

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks pretty good in the pics. Congrats!

[special-K]

Yep, '68. Same trim, hood, and mirrors as 67/68 Chevy. That has my all time favorite best engine in there, if it's original and my seat of the pants says it is.

[uncle]

It runs but needs brake work. Gonna do brakes,seat,a/c and try to fix some of the dents.

[68Gold/white]

LOL, every pre-71 chevy pickup needs brake work, specifically DISC brake work...

I like it!!!

I have read here that AC on a 67 or 68 is highly uncommon!
When you do get the AC going, I'd like to know what you had to go through to make it function.

You plan to take the seat to an upholstery shop???

What does the SPID look like???

[nikwho]

Congrats! I think that the '68 GMC's have the best look, of all of the 67-72's! Good score! I was hoping my '68 GMC had its original 327 when I bought it. It turned out to be a 305, so I did the only reasonable thing; swapped a 427 big block into it! Sweet find. Have you decoded the engine numbers yet?

[uncle]

Thanks for the flip. Not sure what I’m going to do with the seat since I don’t think you can get an original cover. Seat needs a lot of work. As far as the air conditioning goes it still has the belt on it so I’m just gonna try to put a little r12 to see what it does. The truck has been sitting in a barn for 25 years. As far as I know it is the original 327 that has supposedly been rebuilt about 25 years ago. It does run so that’s a plus. If it’s like anything else it will be a slow process for me.

[67_C-30]

Nice score! It kinda reminds of that one you sold Red!

[kidatheart]

That's one of the best colors, in my opinion.

[54blackhornet]

I don’t understand why the GMC gets so little love ? They where more expensive, fewer built and now much rarer then the C10. All those statistics should make them more desirable but they seem to be not...?

[shoveldug]

Nice!

[kazoocruiser]

1:24 PM 5/15/2019
[QUOTE=uncle;8534863]As far as the air conditioning goes it still has the belt on it so I’m just gonna try to put a little r12 to see what it does. /QUOTE]

Before you do that, in case you have a leak, this step might save you some time, expense and lost refrigerant.

First, take a test light and see if you have power through the low pressure switch. It is located on the accumulator / dryer. If you don't have power through the switch, the compressor will not cycle. If the light does not come on at all, checking the fuses and related wiring will need to be done. The low pressure switch is designed to prevent compressor cycling and damage if refrigerant gets low from a leak.

If your AC system got low, it would have allowed normal air into the lines, accumulator, condenser, evaporator, and compressor. With the entrance of the humidity with the air, the moisture combines with the R-12 and creates corrosive compounds, which will make short work of the aluminum parts internally. I did a search for "what happens chemically if R-12 combines with water".

If you depress one of the Shrader valves, with the engine off, it will give you an idea if there is any refrigerant in the unit at all. You could do this with gauges to see what is actually in the system. AC gauges are available as part of Loan-a-tool programs at auto-parts stores.

Reach inside while the engine is off, and see if the clutch (inside part) to the compressor will rotate freely. If it's locked, it is counterproductive to add refrigerant at this point. I still have a belt on my 1981, with a locked compressor, but the next project is pulling a vacuum after I replace the compressor that is definitely bad on my truck.

If you have to invest in the parts to repair your truck, and you do have some residual R-12 in the system, there is no telling if someone added a wacky-charge of something other than R-12. Atmospherically venting a chemical that has been discovered to be as dangerous to the environment as R-12 is really not a good idea. There are "pop-bags" that can be hooked into the Shrader valve that will capture whatever needs to be removed safely.

Letting people vent on the imaginary Internet is safer than venting R-12 in the world we live in. Future grandchildren will appreciate one less R-12 fart bubble.

If you do have to replace parts, 134a conversion is a lot less expensive if other parts fail and cause loss of refrigerant after repair work was done to replace one failed componant.

Hope this helps.

[68Gold/white]

[quote=kazoocruiser;8535135]1:24 PM 5/15/2019

Originally Posted by uncle

As far as the air conditioning goes it still has the belt on it so I’m just gonna try to put a little r12 to see what it does. /QUOTE]

Before you do that, in case you have a leak, this step might save you some time, expense and lost refrigerant.

First, take a test light and see if you have power through the low pressure switch. It is located on the accumulator / dryer. If you don't have power through the switch, the compressor will not cycle. If the light does not come on at all, checking the fuses and related wiring will need to be done. The low pressure switch is designed to prevent compressor cycling and damage if refrigerant gets low from a leak.

If your AC system got low, it would have allowed normal air into the lines, accumulator, condenser, evaporator, and compressor. With the entrance of the humidity with the air, the moisture combines with the R-12 and creates corrosive compounds, which will make short work of the aluminum parts internally. I did a search for "what happens chemically if R-12 combines with water".

If you depress one of the Shrader valves, with the engine off, it will give you an idea if there is any refrigerant in the unit at all. You could do this with gauges to see what is actually in the system. AC gauges are available as part of Loan-a-tool programs at auto-parts stores.

Reach inside while the engine is off, and see if the clutch (inside part) to the compressor will rotate freely. If it's locked, it is counterproductive to add refrigerant at this point. I still have a belt on my 1981, with a locked compressor, but the next project is pulling a vacuum after I replace the compressor that is definitely bad on my truck.

If you have to invest in the parts to repair your truck, and you do have some residual R-12 in the system, there is no telling if someone added a wacky-charge of something other than R-12. Atmospherically venting a chemical that has been discovered to be as dangerous to the environment as R-12 is really not a good idea. There are "pop-bags" that can be hooked into the Shrader valve that will capture whatever needs to be removed safely.

Letting people vent on the imaginary Internet is safer than venting R-12 in the world we live in. Future grandchildren will appreciate one less R-12 fart bubble.

If you do have to replace parts, 134a conversion is a lot less expensive if other parts fail and cause loss of refrigerant after repair work was done to replace one failed componant.

Hope this helps.

Good info, Kazoo!!!
I work on AC stuff on school buses, am not an expert but have learned a lot...
When you buy a new compressor, the manufacturer recommends to stand the compressor on it's end...for some amount of time. I'm sure so that the seal has oil on it when first cycled???
I wonder if the same would apply to a compressor like this??? Sitting for too long, with no oil on the seal.
Then I wonder if sitting too long causes the deal to dry out, would that contribute to the loss of refrigerant???

Can R134 be used in a system with the old style POA valve still on it??? Reason I asked, I've seen new POA valves advertised for sale for both R12, and R134???

[kingsolver72]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

I don’t understand why the GMC gets so little love ? They where more expensive, fewer built and now much rarer then the C10. All those statistics should make them more desirable but they seem to be not...?

I think part of the answer to your rhetorical question you answered with “more expensive, fewer built and now much rarer than the C10” I’ve never owned a 67-72 GMC mostly because I haven’t had the opportunity to purchase one.
Perhaps if the car shows did GMC restorations they’d be more “desirable” to the folks that want in on the latest trend.
If you own one count your blessings.
I get your premise for sure.

[uncle]

Thanks for the a/c advice. I guess I should’ve been a little more detailed than just saying I’m going to add some R12 but again I appreciate all the advice. Also can anyone tell me what this color interior is called on a 68? No spid. I think I have what is a correct seat material for a GMC custom in the following pictures.

[uncle]

1111

[uncle]

2222