grrr, valve cover leaking oil

[67Fleet]

I just replaced the gasket on my driver side valve cover because it had been spitting oil onto my intake manifold. It's still doing it!!! I spent about an hour cleaning the bottom of the valve cover yesterday of the goop and then went to get some nice Felpro valve-cover gaskets (the rubber ones). I installed and put the valve-cover back on. It was a total PITA because they make the gaskets slightly smaller than the cover so I had to use a little gasket spray adhesive to get it to stay long enough to flip it over and stick on the head. Took it out and drove it up to my buddy's shop to help one of my club members bag his S-10. As I was driving home, I got on it a little and then smelled some burning oil. WTF??? Got home and its still spitting on the intake and also looks like down the backside of the motor. The cover doesn't look warped, and I can't see any of the gasket sticking out anywhere. What should I do? Could it be a leak from somewhere else?

[rage'nrat638]

the oil pressure sender or oil pressure line (depends on if you have a gauge or a light) is right there behind the valve cover on the drivers side might just be leaking there

[bmartin9122]

When I had my heads rebuilt, they discovered an odd valve cover oil leak on the passenger side, which required two gaskets to plug up. Of course, I have a high-pressure oil pump, so that may be to blame, also.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by rage'nrat638

the oil pressure sender or oil pressure line (depends on if you have a gauge or a light) is right there behind the valve cover on the drivers side might just be leaking there

Nope, checked that and it looks ok. I have an Edelbrock intake manifold and it's got areas just above center of the valve cover where the oil is pooling a little, so it's gotta be from the valve cover, and I thoroughly cleaned these areas after I put the new cover on, so it had to get there after I ran the truck with the new gasket in. Is there anywhere else it might of come from though?

BMartin brings up a good point also though. I may have a high pressure pump as well, although not sure if the PO put one in or not. I've got a 80lb gauge and it runs up close to the high mark when getting on it.

[cdowns]

sounds like when the intake was installed you didn't use any thread sealant on the bolts a common cause for oil leaks

[stope4]

I second oil coming up through the intake bolts. Remove carb, remove all bolts, clean threads, install thread sealer on threads, bolt down and torque per intake bolt tightening and torquing sequence.

[Longhorn Man]

why does the carb have to come off?

[AesC10s]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

why does the carb have to come off?

it makes it easier to get the 4 bolts on the intake out if ur using a socket.

[BobbyK]

After the eng warmed up for the 1st time,did you retorque the valve cover bolts?

I used the rubber Fel-Pro's on my new Valve covers and needed to retourque the bolts.




Warm it up,retourque,then let eng. cool completely.
Warm it up angain and check tourque on bolts again.
I believe it only 12in/lbs you need to tourque them to.

And if you haven't done so...put a little gasket goop on the bolt threads.

[67Fleet]

Thanks for rubbing that LT1 in there Bobby. Nice motor! I've got later model Vortec heads, and so I have centerbolt valve covers. I am running those t-handle valve-cover bolts. Maybe I should use something else. There's no way to get an accurate torque rating with those since they are tightened by hand only.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by cdowns

sounds like when the intake was installed you didn't use any thread sealant on the bolts a common cause for oil leaks

Great point, and definite possibility. The PO installed the intake, so who knows what he did. I'll check those tonight. Thanks!

[Gray Ghost]

I never have leaks anymore. I RTV both the gasket and the valve cover. The gasket gets installed first, RTV side down, then the valve cover goes one with RTV around the lip...creates a good seal. It doesn't take much RTV either.

Studs help and are better than the bolts. When I replace my intake and carb soon, the bolts will go away and studs will be installed.

[70rs/ss]

I am thinking through this process and not coming up with a leak, high pressure pump does not equate to crankcase pressure, so high pressure oil pump will not cause an oil leak, unless you have no breather, but that is a fault of the crankcase pressure (blow by) not high oil pressure. The center bolt valve covers should be super easy to seal, that is why GM went to them, but pull the spinners off and use the factory style bolt or a stud and nut. The motor up top is a TPI, not LT1, it is still purty, I especially like the vavle covers, what'd they set you back, not to jack the thread, and if you don't mind me asking?

[67Fleet]

Just got back from the local speed shop and picked up some ARP stainless hex head bolts. It will make it a lot easier to get those to the set torque spec w/ my torque wrench. I'm also going to pull the intake bolts and put some thread sealer on them. Will locktite do? I think I have the red kind and believe that is the non-permanent type.

[cdowns]

lochtite is not a thread sealer get thread sealer i use a white paste type of stuff that has teflon in it works good make sure to clean threads with solvent b-4 applying

[BobbyK]

The wife got the covers for me for x-mas.She got ripped as she went to a dealer to get them.
I believe they can be picked up for about the $200.00-$300.00 mark...expensive...I know.
Summit has them for $279.00.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I used black RTV on each side of the rubber Fel-Pro gaskets and a dab on each bolt.

I also switched to the ARP 12 point bolts.Just's looks better to me...plus ,you know I'm all about the "Bling"

[70rs/ss]

that's about what I thought they would cost, I love cork-period. I have had no love from rubber. I use headliner grade spray adhesive on the gasket only, let it tack and glue em to the valvecover. They never leak, and if I have to pull the valve cover the gasket comes with the cover and never breaks or sticks, just my opinion. I am doing a 383 stroker LT1 into my 70 Camaro and putting the tko 600 tranny behind it, do you like the TPI for driveablility and mpg?

[BobbyK]

Drivability is great,my milage needs work.I need to mess with the chip and get my fuel tables into line.
I have an R/V cam in and I'm running VERY rich with the stock fuel tables.

[70rs/ss]

What harness did you use? I just bought a 6.0/4l80e trans and it has the factory wiring, but I keep hearing that I should throw it away and buy painless or any of the others, what did you use?

[67Fleet]

:tj:

[70rs/ss]

I offered up some advice above, his motor was so purty I couldn't ignore......uh yeah, back to leaky vavle covers.......carry on!!

[slamedchevyman]

I've had problems with those cheap chromed steel valve covers leaking no matter what i did. So i replaced them with some nice polished aluminum valve covers that are alot thicker not like those flimsy steel ones that can bend and get out of shape easy. It helped stop the leaks.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by slamedchevyman

I've had problems with those cheap chromed steel valve covers leaking no matter what i did. So i replaced them with some nice polished aluminum valve covers that are alot thicker not like those flimsy steel ones that can bend and get out of shape easy. It helped stop the leaks.

If these new bolts don't do the trick that's what I'm doing. It's a good excuse to spend some more money!

[BobbyK]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

:tj:

I was waiting for that.
70rs/ss,P/M sent.

[72armyswbtruck]

GRRRR, I hate those darn valve cover leaks