the bad, then the good

[SeanB242]

Couldn’t resist. I’m glad I’m way past this point in my welding skills. Lol

[Steeveedee]

I've made some "bird droppings" welds in the past, but just wow. Note that you can always grind' em down and make yet another pass.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

yea you was way COLD on welder setting there and wire size is too big. .023 is for thin sheet metal with 75/25 gas of course

[SeanB242]

Yeah I’m going to grind and repair. I was NOT the one that did this. I just wanted to show what I was going to have to fix.

[SeanB242]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/260964991565 I was looking at this for my sons truck. He just bought his wheels last year so I want a kit that will work with 15” wheels. I messaged this seller and ask if this will work with his wheels but they didn’t answer. Anyone know of a similar kit that will work with 15” wheels and keep the 6 lug? Thanks

[SeanB242]

This was bolted to the frame on drivers side. Had a piece of cable looped through it that I removed. Looks factory. Anyone know what it was for?

[jjzepplin]

It was a cable to hold the motor in case the mount broke. The mount could break and the solid carb linkage would gun the motor and boom!

[SeanB242]

Dang. I was right. Just never seen one before from the factory

[SeanB242]

Delivery day. CPP disc kit from Summit. Summit brand master/booster and a CPP proportioning valve. From unboxing to setting front end on ground roughly 2 hours. If you are familiar with front end workings then this kit don’t need directions. Only thing I had to look up was which way the dust shield went. This kit was for the regular 12” rotor and just barely clears with the spoke steel wheels he had bought. 1 complaint, after starting the install we were shorted upper ball joint bolts for 1 side. Went through all the boxes and trash 2 times to make sure it wasn’t me? Still not 100% sure if it was my fault. Anyway, also short a zerk fitting and couple cotter pins. In the end I would definitely buy this kit again. 4 day weekend so should be no problem getting the master/booster installed.

Can’t get pics to upload. Will try again when I get home

[Artofdeath]

I like how your avatar pic is sideways, lol. Great work Sean!

[SeanB242]

Lol. Idk how to fix it.

[SeanB242]

Finally working. Except there upside down��

[cornerstone]

I had to learn this too. I assume you are using a smart phone like so many do these days... if so hold it sideways so the home button is on the right side and that took care of it for me. Voila, picture correct. BTW, keep them coming!

[SeanB242]

Thanks I’ll try that. Of course I had the home button on the left. Haha

[SeanB242]

Update. Cab is back on mounts but left them loose. Core support is in place and snugged down. Waiting to get more work done around the front end while it’s open and easy to get to. Then plan on setting fenders in place before tightening cab mounts, maybe easier to get things lined up? Just my thought as I’ve never had one tore down this far before. My boy got the inside of the cab sanded,cleaned and painted. Thursday I got the sound deadener put back in and started on the wiring since the dash is still out. This old man is all about smarter not harder anymore so laying on my back trying reach under the dash is not how I want to spend my time HA HA.

Added a new wiring harness last year before the accident but with all the cutting and splicing and connecting and reconnecting things didn’t look as nice as I wanted but was in a hurry to get it running. So I’ve basically relabeled everything and cut it back apart so I can get it nice and tidy. Plus a couple new options added so that will be taken care of now also. Added some small LED lights under dash that I’m wiring into the dome light. For some reason I find soldering wires relaxing so I enjoy doing that, I just hate trying to figure out where everything goes.

The radiator that was in it was beat up and patched and showed signs of still seeping so we are replacing it. Being on his student budget we are trying to source some things on a budget, I just hope it don’t bite us in the butt. Picked up a new aluminum radiator with fans off eBay for 150 bucks. I’m kinda using him as guinea pig to see if I buy the same thing for mine one day. HA. I’m not a fan of mounting fans with the cheap mounts that run through the fins that they provide cause they are cheap I assume. Planning to build some sort of shroud to mount them to and maybe direct more air through the center of radiator.

Also got the Summit booster and master put on. Have to get some brake lines to go between the master and CPP proportioning valve. With the dash out I also added the new dash pad, man that is a lot easier with it out. I know the old patina is all the rage or maybe even past it’s prime, but my boy decided he liked the look and did his own version on the dash. It actually looks pretty unique, so we are going with it at the moment.

Also picked up the Intellitronix digital dash but it hasn’t arrived yet, and I’m waiting on it to reinstall the dash, as I mentioned not wanting to lay on my back to work under dash, I installed the fan controller in the glove box for easy access to fine tune the temp.

At this point everything is time consuming so lots of time spent but don’t look like much is done so here are some pics of the progress with lots of updates left to come. And now, back to the garage.

[Artofdeath]

Nothing wrong with that fan set up, I use one for my 502 BBC. It's a high compression motor and stays cool. Use an adjustable temperature controller for the fans. You can adjust what temp the fans come on, off.

Looks awesome! I wish I had as much help as you have, that or I was 20 years younger! Just can move like I used to. Parts hurt, and I'm not talking about the truck, lol.

[SeanB242]

Yes I have the fan controller in the glove box. I’m not worried about the fans cooling well enough I just don’t like the mounting method they alway provide. I’m building a shroud to mount them to take any stress off the fins and tubes.

Yeah, seems I have the knowledge and he has the youth to bend like a pretzel. Lol. I usually supervise while he does things but sometimes I can’t help myself and just have to do it myself. Haha.

[SeanB242]

Dash reinstalled. Built fan shroud out of plexiglass as that’s all I could find. Will replace with some abs at some point.

[SeanB242]

Dome light issues. I have power out of fuse panel which splits into brake switch and dome light and orange wire in headlight switch. White wire out of headlight switch to dome light. I have power going through the circuit but no dome light. Put a test light on the white wire on HL switch and it lights up. Test light on orange wire lights up. Pull domelight bulb and no light at white wire on HL switch. I know it’s something simple and I just can’t wrap my head around it.

[jjzepplin]

Door activator switches hooked up? I think they are on the negative side and provide the ground.

[SeanB242]

No I don’t have those. Just the headlight switch to turn it on. I don’t think the white wire should have power to it but I don’t know. I get power to the orange and white wire but the bulb don’t light up. And if I remove the bulb the white wire don’t light up the test light. If I hook the bulb up at the battery it works and testing continuity it works?

[SeanB242]

Anyone? I’m in holding position until I get this figured out

[jjzepplin]

The door switches are on the negative side and connect and un-connect the negative to make the circuit. Your bulb is simply not grounded.

[SeanB242]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

The door switches are on the negative side and connect and un-connect the negative to make the circuit. Your bulb is simply not grounded.

I don’t have door switches. I thought it was a ground issue. I just can’t figure out why. My wiring looks like the factory diagram. I can’t figure out where it should be grounded.

[SeanB242]

Just as I figured. Something stupid. I had the headlight switch out of the dash so it wasn’t grounded.