LFD's low buck truck build!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Does any one know how to properly patch a radiator leak? I have a small drip comming from a damaged fin that I would like to try patching up my self. I have a good tortch set up with small brazing tips but no idea what or how to do this. It is a very new 4 core radiator other wise I would just replace it. Any good links?

Thanks,
Kevin
LFD Inc.

I saw them put a raw egg in the radiator while the car was running on MythBusters. It worked like a charm .

[brak]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I saw them put a raw egg in the radiator while the car was running on MythBusters. It worked like a charm .

+1 on the egg, too bad it's only temporary.

can you tell exactly where it is coming from? when i was in highschool the radiator in my 280z sprung a leak, and being the dumb kid that i was, i just crimped the fin that was squirting with a needle nose pliars. whaddaya know, i drove it another two years like that.


now for a question.
The truck you are parting is the 67 right?
would 72 disc spindles work with the upper and lower control arms?
If so, i'd like to take them off your hands if they are still available.

[msgross]

if shipping happens I would be interested in the dash bezel... I need spare parts to convert to vac dash... thanks.

[gouldie]

for the leak i would try sodering or brazing it. i've never done it but it would probly work if you can get to where the leak is.

[Rokcrln]

Yes I know right where the problem is and I do want to braze or soder it but I just do not know what product to use on it. I am thinking that regular copper pipe soder is not right.

Ok I have been thinking about what to do with the parts people want shipped and here is were I am at. Most people want an item shipped and I was really hopping that more local guys would have wanted parts. I just do not have enough time to box, pack and ship these parts off. I leave at 3:30- 4:00 am and normaly do not get home untill 4-5 pm then I have customer projects to work on, a house (1928 craftsman style) I am rebuilding, a prego wife and 2-3hrs of sleep to try and get to each day. I am not trying to make excuses for not wanting to ship but this is just why I said from the start that I did not want to ship. I feel if I ship out one item then I need to ship out all of them and I know it just won't happen. Sorry but if you can find a way to get the parts another way great but all I can do at this time is offer them up to local members.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Ok I have been thinking about what to do with the parts people want shipped and here is were I am at. Most people want an item shipped and I was really hopping that more local guys would have wanted parts. I just do not have enough time to box, pack and ship these parts off. I leave at 3:30- 4:00 am and normaly do not get home untill 4-5 pm then I have customer projects to work on, a house (1928 craftsman style) I am rebuilding, a prego wife and 2-3hrs of sleep to try and get to each day. I am not trying to make excuses for not wanting to ship but this is just why I said from the start that I did not want to ship. I feel if I ship out one item then I need to ship out all of them and I know it just won't happen. Sorry but if you can find a way to get the parts another way great but all I can do at this time is offer them up to local members.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Surely there are some local members who can help Kevin get this stuffed shipped?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Surely there are some local members who can help Kevin get this stuffed shipped?

If someone has the free time and can do this than that would be great I am just over extended as it is. My wife tells me I need to start telling people NO from time to time but it is in my nature to say yes and try and help

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[kbs71]

kevin,
I've fixed several radiators before just get the big .025 Solder Rolls With Rosin Flux Center 60% Tin 40% Lead-Rosin Core. Get some acid rosin, clean the area real good with a wire brush, slap some rosin on it heat it up with your brazer tip, after it starts to turn colors (light red) move the tip away and add the solder. It should flow into the area pretty easily. If its a big hole, you may want to try and make it smaller by using needle nose pliers to crimp it down to a crack.

Hope this helps, it's worked for me several times. I did a 65 Mustang radiator back when I was 16 and it lasted for a couple of years. Then I lost touch with the car so I don't know how long it really lasted.

Here's a web site for a place in Santa Ana, but you can probably find everything you need at a Sears or other good "Hardware" store.
http://www.action-electronics.com/kester.htm#Wire

[Rokcrln]

Thanks I will be pulling the radiator on Sunday and give it a shot.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68C15]

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

[Rokcrln]

Well we made (my father inlaw and my self) progress on the truck today. We put in new plugs($16.72), wires ($34.00) and the HEI then He tuned it with a vac guage and his ear but it runs like a champ, idle's smooth, shifts hard and breaks very hard Then we put on the bumpers that had come with my 71 SWB because the ones that came with this are too nice for a tow vehical and would look so nice on my 71 with the 68 front clip. They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas? Then we replaced the tail gate latch, put in the carpet I have had sitting around for about 8yrs also out of my 71 and since it has been body dropped it will no longer work. I got one of the new mirrors on but the passenger side was miss boxed and the arm is not for this truck so I need to track down a new one. All in all it was a great day and for tomarow I plan on fixing the radiator, replacing the power steering pump, box and psi line. Then I need to build a mount for the seats and it is road ready!!

Here are a few pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $491.06
and 18hrs

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas?

How about RAM AIR intake from the holes in the bumper? I know this is just a driver so fog lights would be cool...

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68C15

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

Small world mine is a sears as well but way newer than yours (by 12yrs )

Here is what takes alot of my time and with our first kid on the way I have alot to finish like put in air and heat and other usless stuff like that. It is not going to be cheap

Here was part of this summers work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[meathead95]

my parents have a sears home as well dated back to the thirties. we found the origional blueprints and paperwork in a tube inbetween the rafters upstairs when we where remodeling it.

[kevs_c10]

Hi Kevin,
I'll take the gas tank if you've still got it and the tailgate if it isn't too far gone. I'll PM you my phone number to set up a good time to drop by.
Thanks!

[cheyenne10]

I suggestion on the parts shipping problem. I wonder if there is a local member who needs some fo the surplus parts that would trade some of his labor to box and ship stuff in exchange for the donated part(s)? They would have to make the shipping cost arrangements but maybe would feel better if tehy earned what they got.

[lamar]

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by lamar

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.

Back row of a 2005 tahoe. they are not great seats because they do not adjust at all and are kind of narrow as well but they are free so why not give them a try.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[lamar]

Thanks, I thought they were Tahoe or Yukon. May not be the best seats but they look cool!!!! thanks again, Lamar.

[PanelDeland]

Kevin,the amount of work you have done in the limited time you have been working on this along with your other obligations astounds me.I no longer have the drive or stamina to do this type of stuff.I have been following this thread and it has given me a boost in initiative to get going better on mine.Thanks for that.Now if the weather would just co-operate....

[msgross]

wait till the baby comes... momma won't let you that much time outside the house and good luck getting any sleep!

[hotrodhomi]

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

Not yet I am joing to try and see how they work. But if I change my mind I have you on speed dial

Kevin

[Rokcrln]

Ok back to the build! I got alot done today but it was very windy and that made things a pain in the a$$.

I started by pulling out the radiator and fixing the leak. I went to home Depot and come to find out here in California they do not sell Solder with Lead any more at you local places. So I just bought a kit for about $8.00 and used my MAP gass tortch that I have for doing plumbing and it worked great no leaks so thanks for the help. All in all once it was out I think I spent about 5 min cleaning, moving fins out of the way, soldering and moving fins back! Total about 1 hour to remove, fix and replace.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $499.06
and 19hrs

[Rokcrln]

Then came the PS pump ($66.98), PSI hose ($23.39), steering box (free in bed of truck ) and the rag joint rebuild kit($7.69) and about 4 hours in labor(I already had the radiator out). replacing the pump was easier just to remove the radiator and fan so you have good access. Once the pump was out you will need to remove the pully off your pump and re use it on the new one. I have a cheap kit that works well for this. It came from Napa auto parts and runs about $25.00 Then put it all back in just like it came out.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
total $596.84
and 23 hrs