'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... - Page 56 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Frizzle Fry · 09-05-2012, 12:43 PM

No ceramic yet. Know a good supplier?
Posted via Mobile Device

theastronaut · 09-07-2012, 05:10 PM

Ray's Auto in Marietta Georgia has them. He sells 50 amp dual 87 relays, relay connector kits, and ceramic H4 connector kits for DIY harnesses. Also sells complete harnesses. He doesn't have a website, but his phone number is 770-424-8620. I've got his business card somewhere with an email address, I'll dig it out and post it.

Edit: Email is: raysautohlpc@aol.com

Frizzle Fry · 09-09-2012, 04:21 PM

Nice, thanks!

67ChevyRedneck · 09-09-2012, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

well, I didn't replace or even weld up that light housing. Gotta draw the line somewhere if I ever want to drive this beast!
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah, but just think... now water's going to get up inside of there and fog up your lens and blow your bulbs...

...thinking about fixing it now, aren't you?

Just close it up with a little caulk or silicone

Frizzle Fry · 09-09-2012, 09:05 PM

Damn it man!

trixter99 · 09-09-2012, 10:15 PM

Quit firing up his ADD I want him to finish this build so he can get started on the 61 again.
Posted via Mobile Device

67ChevyRedneck · 09-09-2012, 10:30 PM

Shoot, I want to see the Tahoe finished!

69gmcc10 · 09-10-2012, 12:38 PM

I just want him to finish something!

Frizzle Fry · 09-10-2012, 09:09 PM

Hey now...

ERASER5 · 09-11-2012, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

I just want him to finish something!

He did. Frizz got married. "No man is complete untill he is married. Then he is finished."

I sorta like the long build. I get to learn more and see more cool pics!

watahyahknow · 09-11-2012, 10:48 AM

yup
finished with projects (unless it the addition to the house )
finished with hobbies (unless its carrying stuff for the wife during shopping)
finished having an opinion (unless its the same as the missus)
eeeeh

67ChevyRedneck · 09-11-2012, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Hey now...

Posted via Mobile Device

Frizzle Fry · 09-11-2012, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERASER5

He did. Frizz got married. "No man is complete untill he is married. Then he is finished."

I sorta like the long build. I get to learn more and see more cool pics!

No no no. You must be complete on your own first!

Quote:

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

yup
finished with projects (unless it the addition to the house )
finished with hobbies (unless its carrying stuff for the wife during shopping)
finished having an opinion (unless its the same as the missus)
eeeeh

Good luck with that

You guys wouldn't believe how much support I get for these projects. She's a classic car lover too! Bought her a 1968 FJ40 and she wants more!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Posted via Mobile Device

ERASER5 · 09-12-2012, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

she wants more!

So does mine, shoes that is..

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 09-16-2012, 06:34 PM

Good to see ya still pluckin away at her...

Frizzle Fry · 09-19-2012, 11:03 PM

Cooling Lines

Time to make some aluminum cooling lines. 1.25" OD X 0.058" 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Aluminum Tube does not like to bend!

It must be annealed first and even then it can be hit and miss (as you will see...).

Rubbed with bar soap and heated with a torch until the soap uniformly darkens:

I liberal amount of lithium grease applied to the bender dies and:

One end done, time to do the other end...

and ...doh! Couldn't have happened on the first bend could it

Two more sticks are on the way for remaking that one.

You may have noticed the bead rolled into the end. I made this little tool for doing those:

I'm going to add some surface area to the "saddle" to reduce the indentation on the OD.

That other line shown is for the upper coolant line. Here's what I'm going for (lower line still needs to be remade)

Clamps will all be either T-Bar or Shrink-Clamps

Frizzle Fry · 09-19-2012, 11:19 PM

Heater Lines

In related news... I put that heater line bulkhead to use. Though it is a beatiful piece, I chose to hide it as best I can. I played with a few different locations for the firewall passthru, but in the end this one won out:

Inside (not they do not interfere with pedals/feet)

and over to the heater core:

Now how do I regulate the heater temp. This Summit unit came with no provisions for regulating temp. Three fan speeds and that's it. What if i want some defrost without blasting the heat? Here's my solution:

Controlled by the existing dash lever:
Open

Closed

hgs_notes · 09-19-2012, 11:31 PM

Cool idea on the tube beader. These ones from earls seem like a simple idea that would work but you have to buy one for every size tube. If its just one size you need then ok, but they would add up fast.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...rs-Individual/

Zoomin · 09-19-2012, 11:33 PM

Now that is totally cool! Making your own tool like that.

I'm not sure where I heard this, or what material it's used on, but the myth has it that if use fill the tube with sand it won't collapse.
Posted via Mobile Device

hgs_notes · 09-19-2012, 11:38 PM

The ball valve may work, but I think it will probably feel like full on at about 1/3 open. Depends on the amount of total flow you have. Part way open on that valve may be enough to allow all the flow the system puts out. A small orifice (washer) in the valve inlet might help control it better. Another option is a smaller ball valve. You'll just have to try it out and see what you get for results.

71swb4x4 · 09-19-2012, 11:42 PM

Everything looks awesome, as usual.

Frizzle Fry · 09-19-2012, 11:54 PM

What else have I been up to..?

I decided not to run the capillary oil pressure gauge (oil line running into the car

). So in order to run an electric oil pressure gauge I've started this process. There's probably a Smiths gauge out there that would bolt right in, but what fun would that be?

Bought a Stewart Warner 0-100PSI gauge off eBay.

It has the correct 90* sweep to use my gauge face-plate

Researched the proper sending unit specs for the gauge (240-33ohms for 0-100PSI) and found this VDO unit (don't mind the exhaust wrap. It's for a future installment).

S2000's don't have an oil pressure gauge, just and ID10T light. So a T-fitting allows me to run both:

Integration of the SW gauge into the Sunbeam dash:

Upper right location in the pic is the existing oil gauge (had already attempted to use a water temp gauge with oil pressure face-plate but could not find a sender with the correct range or span)

SW gauge size reference:

Guts pulled and already clearanced as needed:

Where it's going:

Face-plate also required a little mod:

Zero-Stop post added:

Work in progress...

Tapping for stand-offs:

...and that's as far as I have pics of. I'm a little further along and it looks like it will work out very nicely.

Frizzle Fry · 09-20-2012, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Cool idea on the tube beader. These ones from earls seem like a simple idea that would work but you have to buy one for every size tube. If its just one size you need then ok, but they would add up fast.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...rs-Individual/

That's cheating

(they look nice tho)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Now that is totally cool! Making your own tool like that.

I'm not sure where I heard this, or what material it's used on, but the myth has it that if use fill the tube with sand it won't collapse.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah, I've read that too. Ice as well. The sticks I have coming have just a slightly thicker wall so hopefully I'll get it on the first one. If not I'm using frozen quick-sand on the 2nd

Quote:

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

The ball valve may work, but I think it will probably feel like full on at about 1/3 open. Depends on the amount of total flow you have. Part way open on that valve may be enough to allow all the flow the system puts out. A small orifice (washer) in the valve inlet might help control it better. Another option is a smaller ball valve. You'll just have to try it out and see what you get for results.

You may be right, but if I can control the temp at all I'll be happy. With no way to completely shut off the vent I don't want heated wind flowing through there in the summer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Everything looks awesome, as usual.

Thanks brotha!

Mal · 09-20-2012, 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Now that is totally cool! Making your own tool like that.

I'm not sure where I heard this, or what material it's used on, but the myth has it that if use fill the tube with sand it won't collapse.
Posted via Mobile Device

Dry sand will stop the tube from collapse. Pack it in tight so there is no air trapped and cap the ends. I have seen square bent into tight radias with this method.

Frizzle Fry · 09-20-2012, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mal

Dry sand will stop the tube from collapse. Pack it in tight so there is no air trapped and cap the ends. I have seen square bent into tight radias with this method.

Cap with what? Welded caps? I do have a spool for welding Al. Just need to pick up a 2nd tank...

09-05-2012, 12:43 PM	#1376
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... No ceramic yet. Know a good supplier? Posted via Mobile Device

09-07-2012, 05:10 PM	#1377
theastronaut Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Anderson SC Posts: 3,868	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Ray's Auto in Marietta Georgia has them. He sells 50 amp dual 87 relays, relay connector kits, and ceramic H4 connector kits for DIY harnesses. Also sells complete harnesses. He doesn't have a website, but his phone number is 770-424-8620. I've got his business card somewhere with an email address, I'll dig it out and post it. Edit: Email is: raysautohlpc@aol.com __________________ Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc Last edited by theastronaut; 09-07-2012 at 05:31 PM.

09-09-2012, 04:21 PM	#1378
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Nice, thanks!

09-09-2012, 09:05 PM	#1380
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Damn it man!

09-09-2012, 10:15 PM	#1381
trixter99 I have no time for this Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Fort St John B.C. CANADA Posts: 434	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Quit firing up his ADD I want him to finish this build so he can get started on the 61 again. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1986 Chevy short box ( PROJECT ) 1994 Chevy Blazer lifted 6" 2009 Gmc 2500 HD 1999 Hugger orange Camaro SS 2007 BMW X5 Sport

09-09-2012, 10:30 PM	#1382
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Shoot, I want to see the Tahoe finished! __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

09-10-2012, 12:38 PM	#1383
69gmcc10 Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Missoula, MT Posts: 934	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... I just want him to finish something! __________________ 69 GMC C10 build thread- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501676 03 Silverado build thread-http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591582

09-10-2012, 09:09 PM	#1384
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Hey now...

09-11-2012, 10:48 AM	#1386
watahyahknow Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: the netherlands europe Posts: 4,335	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... yup finished with projects (unless it the addition to the house ) finished with hobbies (unless its carrying stuff for the wife during shopping) finished having an opinion (unless its the same as the missus) eeeeh __________________ i got a job again and having fun at it too idea's for the trucks and the order of things to do are taking shape and get closer to being realized , a few more months and i be able to start building for real i complete 2 of the trucks intoo running fashion one custom and one basicly stock the thirth will be sacrificed for parts

09-16-2012, 06:34 PM	#1390
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,590	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Good to see ya still pluckin away at her... __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

09-19-2012, 11:03 PM	#1391
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Cooling Lines Time to make some aluminum cooling lines. 1.25" OD X 0.058" 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Aluminum Tube does not like to bend! It must be annealed first and even then it can be hit and miss (as you will see...). Rubbed with bar soap and heated with a torch until the soap uniformly darkens: I liberal amount of lithium grease applied to the bender dies and: One end done, time to do the other end... and ...doh! Couldn't have happened on the first bend could it Two more sticks are on the way for remaking that one. You may have noticed the bead rolled into the end. I made this little tool for doing those: I'm going to add some surface area to the "saddle" to reduce the indentation on the OD. That other line shown is for the upper coolant line. Here's what I'm going for (lower line still needs to be remade) Clamps will all be either T-Bar or Shrink-Clamps

09-19-2012, 11:19 PM	#1392
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Heater Lines In related news... I put that heater line bulkhead to use. Though it is a beatiful piece, I chose to hide it as best I can. I played with a few different locations for the firewall passthru, but in the end this one won out: Inside (not they do not interfere with pedals/feet) and over to the heater core: Now how do I regulate the heater temp. This Summit unit came with no provisions for regulating temp. Three fan speeds and that's it. What if i want some defrost without blasting the heat? Here's my solution: Controlled by the existing dash lever: Open Closed

09-19-2012, 11:31 PM	#1393
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,107	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Cool idea on the tube beader. These ones from earls seem like a simple idea that would work but you have to buy one for every size tube. If its just one size you need then ok, but they would add up fast. http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...rs-Individual/ __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff

09-19-2012, 11:33 PM	#1394
Zoomin Man of Mini-Talents Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 4,295	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Now that is totally cool! Making your own tool like that. I'm not sure where I heard this, or what material it's used on, but the myth has it that if use fill the tube with sand it won't collapse. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Steve Project - Ruth 66 Skylark Project - Lola 60 Biscayne Project - Iron Ox 54 GMC 100 Project - Darth 69 Camaro

09-19-2012, 11:38 PM	#1395
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,107	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... The ball valve may work, but I think it will probably feel like full on at about 1/3 open. Depends on the amount of total flow you have. Part way open on that valve may be enough to allow all the flow the system puts out. A small orifice (washer) in the valve inlet might help control it better. Another option is a smaller ball valve. You'll just have to try it out and see what you get for results. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff



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09-19-2012, 11:42 PM	#1396
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... Everything looks awesome, as usual. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

09-19-2012, 11:54 PM	#1397
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... What else have I been up to..? I decided not to run the capillary oil pressure gauge (oil line running into the car ). So in order to run an electric oil pressure gauge I've started this process. There's probably a Smiths gauge out there that would bolt right in, but what fun would that be? Bought a Stewart Warner 0-100PSI gauge off eBay. It has the correct 90* sweep to use my gauge face-plate Researched the proper sending unit specs for the gauge (240-33ohms for 0-100PSI) and found this VDO unit (don't mind the exhaust wrap. It's for a future installment). S2000's don't have an oil pressure gauge, just and ID10T light. So a T-fitting allows me to run both: Integration of the SW gauge into the Sunbeam dash: Upper right location in the pic is the existing oil gauge (had already attempted to use a water temp gauge with oil pressure face-plate but could not find a sender with the correct range or span) SW gauge size reference: Guts pulled and already clearanced as needed: Where it's going: Face-plate also required a little mod: Zero-Stop post added: Work in progress... Tapping for stand-offs: ...and that's as far as I have pics of. I'm a little further along and it looks like it will work out very nicely.

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