Restoring Rusty

[hatzie]

If you bead the end of the tube you don't need to double clamp it.
The ATS Parker Beading Tools are darn nice but the price is pretty dear. Here they are FWIW
I have seen similar bead forming tools made from modified pipe cutters. Depends on your tooling availability and skill set.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxZTe2Rs-X8

The Earls tube beading tools work fine for a few tubes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9hTleI8a9I

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hatzie

If you bead the end of the tube you don't need to double clamp it.
The ATS Parker Beading Tools are darn nice but the price is pretty dear. Here they are FWIW
I have seen similar bead forming tools made from modified pipe cutters. Depends on your tooling availability and skill set.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxZTe2Rs-X8

The Earls tube beading tools work fine for a few tubes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9hTleI8a9I

Many of us use steel tubing for various lines. Not sure if that EZ Beader does just aluminum or if it can do steel as well.

For the part-time/shade-tree builders, brass compression fittings also work as an easy way to get it done on steel tubing w/o a bead forming tool. Put a ferrule + the male/female portions of a brass fitting together on the tube. Tighten the male/female portions to locate & 'crimp' the ferrule in place. Loosen the male/female portions. Then grind/cut the female portion off as needed using an angle grinder.

The crimped ferrule is left on the tube & the hose can be forced over it w/a single worm gear clamp to keep it firmly in place.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Many of us use steel tubing for various lines. Not sure if that EZ Beader does just aluminum or if it can do steel as well.

For the part-time/shade-tree builders, brass compression fittings also work as an easy way to get it done on steel tubing w/o a bead forming tool. Put a ferrule + the male/female portions of a brass fitting together on the tube. Tighten the male/female portions to locate & 'crimp' the ferrule in place. Loosen the male/female portions. Then grind/cut the female portion off as needed using an angle grinder.

The crimped ferrule is left on the tube & the hose can be forced over it w/a single worm gear clamp to keep it firmly in place.

I would think they could do thin wall Ni-Copp and steel brake and fuel line. Just take smaller bites at a time and lube it.

Interesting idea using ferrules as a small tube bead.
I stay far away from worm clamps on hoses smaller than 1". I use constant tension spring clamps and fuel injection clamps for smaller hoses.
I'm moving away from worm clamps to spring clamps on larger stuff like radiator hoses at this point. Toyota has been using them for a couple decades and they don't leak. I hate the locations the thoughtless line workers tend to put the ears at the factory, and I'm not the only one that does, but they can be moved to a location that's accessible so they work for fine the rest of the life of the vehicle.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I would think they could do thin wall Ni-Copp and steel brake and fuel line. Just take smaller bites at a time and lube it.

Interesting idea using ferrules as a small tube bead.
I stay far away from worm clamps on hoses smaller than 1". I use constant tension spring clamps and fuel injection clamps for smaller hoses.
I'm moving away from worm clamps to spring clamps on larger stuff like radiator hoses at this point. Toyota has been using them for a couple decades and they don't leak. I hate the locations the thoughtless line workers tend to put the ears at the factory, and I'm not the only one that does, but they can be moved to a location that's accessible so they work for fine the rest of the life of the vehicle.

Much agreed on the worm clamp avoidance when/where possible & I prefer the use of the FI style clamps. I haven't found a good local source for them in a high quality material & I have readily available access to SS worm gear hardware so it's more of a default thing.

[mongocanfly]

dang...that could have been disastrous

[daddyjeep]

I always just do a bubble flare with a normal cheap flaring tool. I even did a video on it a few weeks ago when I made new trans lines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeGM7FWQng

[Gregski]

got sum fuel filter adapter that don't suck! so that I don't have to use 9 yards of thread tape to get those black ones above to stop leaking

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

got sum fuel filter adapter that don't suck! so that I don't have to use 9 yards of thread tape to get those black ones above to stop leaking

Knowing what the proper fuel line ends should look like helps a great deal.
Russell makes some good hot rod stuff. I've used their drilled and 1/8NPT threaded banjo bolts to add an oil pressure gauge to my ATV.

[Gregski]

Gentlemen does this "brand new" Corvette Servo look brand new to you all, ladies as well

by the way the new large C clip was so rusted I ended up re using my old one (not shown in pics)

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Gentlemen does this "brand new" Corvette Servo look brand new to you all, ladies as well

by the way the new large C clip was so rusted I ended up re using my old one (not shown in pics)

I don't know much about servos, but that red yo-yo looks like an antique.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

I don't know much about servos, but that red yo-yo looks like an antique.

yeah, I wrote to the company that sold me that on Amazon, I like to do that as a courtesy before leaving negative feedback, and they wrote back and said yes it is new and that they were sorry about the poor quality and that they will talk to their "REBUILD" tech to have him do a better job

EXCUSE ME? rebuilt is not brand new, I did not want a rebuilt part! wth

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

yeah, I wrote to the company that sold me that on Amazon, I like to do that as a courtesy before leaving negative feedback, and they wrote back and said yes it is new and that they were sorry about the poor quality and that they will talk to their "REBUILD" tech to have him do a better job

EXCUSE ME? rebuilt is not brand new, I did not want a rebuilt part! wth

Wow. A response like that basically writes the review for you. And for the post above, while I understand it, there are many legitimate companies that choose to use Amazon or ebay as their vehicle for online sales. Unfortunately, sometimes it's hard to tell them from people like this outfit until you get the part. Good luck man.

[Gregski]

so got the old servo out and sure enuff the piston was loose as a goose and the "new" one seems a little bit better

mandatory stare and compare:

[Gregski]

So Good News / Bad News

the Good News is my trans shifts better now

the Bad News is the stupid clunk sound is still there

[blazer2007]

Why do you beat yourself up by ordering from Amazon. I like my parts from a tranny shop or engine shop. I,m sure you have your reason,s but I got tired of that game. Getting old so don,t like to do it more than once but that doesn,t work sometimes either .

[Gregski]

on this episode of "That's Cool, But It Still Aint Gonna Work" we try to solve a flat tire (but only on the bottom) with Windex

[Gregski]

so the truck sat in the garage for 2 or 3 weeks while I slayed it in my '54 and painted our perfectly fine oak kitchen cabinets... white! [pronounced: no time to work on the truck(s)]

and the texter side front tire went pretty much all the way flat... on the bottom

I took it off rolled it around and usually I can spot a nail or a screw somewheres in the tread section right quick, but nothing this time, checked the valve and it was tight

so after coating it in Windex and no bubbles, I took it to our vegan environmentally friendly fluid dynamics station, and still couldn't see any bubbles, what gives?

is my Ex messing with me again !!! ha ha

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so the truck sat in the garage for 2 or 3 weeks
bubbles, what gives?

Valve stem?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

Valve stem?

yup thought that as well, but it was tight and no bubbles from it

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Gregski

yup thought that as well, but it was tight and no bubbles from it

Cap on or off when verified?

I've had more than one that when the cap was tightened all the way tight, it would inexplicably slightly compress the stem allowing air to purge. Different caps solved the issue. If you can't determine anything else, it might be worth dbl checking.

[Gregski]

I think the Ol' Lady wants me to wear gloves when I wrench, she went out and got me all of these

[Gregski]

so off to the Shed Of Stuff... no [back] rest for the wicked! ha ha

[Gregski]

in order to disassemble the backrest first we must remove the 127 hog rings, carefully making sure each one is accounted for

[Gregski]

then we gently liberate the cover from the foam, taking care not to tear it

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

then we gently liberate the cover from the foam, taking care not to tear it

Hahaha!

Cool, Rusty seat fix!











subliminal message. nothing to read here. keep rusty keep rusty keep rusty keep rusty