Would a tow bar be safe? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Longhorn Man · 09-20-2006, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 84 400

Well if it is neutral then it would not be in the lock position.

Couple things on that... most of us have the 67 - 72 trucks... esp since this is that segment of the board... and our columns don't lock.

Plus, onless you have a stick, you need to remove the drive shaft anyways.

I got my first one at wall mart for 100 bucks, but most wallmarts stopped selling them (check the RV section)
You can look in your yellow pages for trailer repair/sales/supplies store. Not semi trailers, but the ones ppl haul cars or lawn mowers on. You can look up RV dealers, or just go online and get one. E-bay has them, overstocked.com used to have them all the time, reese .com has them..

I would not recomend tellin U-haul you are using there junk to tow a bug... first, i wouldn't recomend renting there junk at all.

jimfulco · 09-21-2006, 01:44 AM

Make sure everything's tight before you leave, then stop after 100 yards or so & retighten. Check it again after a mile or so, then again after a few more miles. Stuff jiggles loose.

69face · 09-21-2006, 02:22 AM

safe enough i towed my little brothers truck 80 miles at 55mph.

red71cheyenne · 09-21-2006, 12:18 PM

I think I got mine at Wally world too Andy, and it was like $50. Towed the Blazer from Puyallup to Bremerton behind the Suburban. About 60 miles all told. No problems. I tied up the steering wheel though, should have went with it loose. Made those tires drag that way. No worries, just do it! And be careful....

Longhorn Man · 09-21-2006, 04:54 PM

man, on passenger vehicles on public roads (excluding millitary stuff) I have tow bar'd;
one stripped truck, only bed and rolling frame with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the straight forward position, pulled with a SWB 69 GMC,to the junk yard, 10 miles

Pulled the 69 SWB GMC with a 25 foot moving van 1200 miles from tx to oh.

Pulled a ranger 3 times locally, ending up at the junk yard... 20 miles or so total, pulled with the 69

pulled the 70 one ton longhorn from PA.. 50 miles west of Philly to here... 650 or so miles, towed with an 87 k/5.

Parts truck (again, rolling frame and bed, and also with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the forward position) 10 miles to the shop to cut it up.

Dragged an S-10 from fort Wayne to Here with the 69, can't even remember the miles on that one.

All this with only that one incident I mentioned earlier, and it was easy to steer and throttle out of trouble.

72swbcamo · 09-22-2006, 11:51 AM

For ChevyBill, and LomghornMan, or anyone else who might be interested:
The reason the towed vehicle does not have to have the steering wheel tied or locked is that the front suspension on cars and trucks has geometry build into it what will make the tires try to stay straight or track during turning. When you have your front end aligned the technician checks and/or adjusts as necessary the caster, camber, and toe-in of the front end. The caster of the front end is the degree that the front wheels are tilted off the vertical. This angle causes the front tires to want to stay straight. The principle is similar to the front wheels on a shopping cart, (caster wheels), they will track straight going straight or track the towing vehicle in a turn. Hope this explanation help.

Blue85 · 09-22-2006, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sneakysnake

Nothing like a chain and piece of pipe for brakes and a pair of "vise grips"for a steering wheel.LoL

More details on this please, could be a good idea for yanked vehicles around the farm, pretty sure i'm redneck enough to do it lol!

**sneakysnake** · 09-25-2006, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue85

More details on this please, could be a good idea for yanked vehicles around the farm, pretty sure i'm redneck enough to do it lol!

Take a piece of pipe 6-8' or so run a chain inside it(take the hook off one end if need to) then chain it between the two vehicles, this keeps there from being any slack and as you slow down it stops the tow vehicle.just watch for (Z)ing of the pipe or you will kiss bumpers And vise grips on a steering shaft make for a handle to hang onto, just dont try to take a curve a 60mph.LOL

**StingRay** · 09-25-2006, 04:44 PM

Around here if the towed vehicles not registered and insured you're not legal and have no liability coverage on either vehicle with a tow bar.

Fred T · 09-25-2006, 10:23 PM

Have to agree that if I was towing a vehicle 5 miles I would use a chain or strap. But, since you're not comfortable about that, here's my advice. I've towed everything from garden tractors to semis with a pickup and a chain, have even used a bar a few times.

Towbars are wonderful. Dad and I weren't afraid to use them and go fast. We even pulled a 68 Dodge Polara 200 miles at 80 mph. But we did something most people don't do. Dad drove the towing vehicle, I rode in the vehicle being towed. Hands off the steering wheel, which took some getting used to. But I did run the brakes and turn signals. That way we didn't have to run any wiring for lights, and we had brakes on the towed vehicle, which made it a whole lot easier tow. Most vehicles don't have enough brakes to handle another 2 tons, and you can get in trouble if the brakes get hot.

As for using a pipe and a chain, it's okay for short, slow tows on vehicles without brakes. But I have seen more than one bent pipe. You have to know the lmits.

A few 72's · 03-19-2007, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

one stripped truck, only bed and rolling frame with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the straight forward position, pulled with a SWB 69 GMC,to the junk yard, 10 miles

Parts truck (again, rolling frame and bed, and also with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the forward position) 10 miles to the shop to cut it up.

Do you think it woud have been a problem to pull either of them 100 miles? Looking at pulling a LWB rolling frame no bed, cab, motor, trans. All freeway 60-65 MPH.
Shan...

bad_turbo · 03-20-2007, 02:20 AM

does the driveshaft need to be removed before towing a rear wheel drive truck?

cruisinlow67 · 03-20-2007, 02:35 AM

^^^^ no just put it in neutral. we towed my 67 10 miles with a tow bar. no problems.

CrashEd · 03-20-2007, 02:49 AM

Fred your dad and my dad must be related LOL!!.

Longhorn Man · 03-20-2007, 05:47 AM

if the truck is an automatic, and you are going over 25 MPH, and more than 5 miles, yes, you must drop the saft, or you can ruin the tranny.
It'll be spinning with no lube since the pump is friven by the converter, and the converter will be standing still.

texanidiot25 · 03-20-2007, 10:26 PM

Been there, done that.

If you dont have an engine in the towed truck, the front tires will tend to screech on some sharp corners, because the tires turn as the truck swivles on the hitch. And with no weight over the front, the tires are light.

But if your gonna go freeway speed, you gotta take out the drive shaft w/ auto trans. Unless you like buying a new transmission...

herb101 · 03-21-2007, 12:33 AM

Hmmm - wonder if I should not have done my flat tow September before last. Pheonix to San Antonio with a 1/2 ton 97 Ford shortbed 2wd pulling a 51 Willys Wagon with full running gear. It did help that the Willys had lockout hubs on all 4 corners - ultimate neutral.

Herb

grayw0lf · 03-21-2007, 04:54 PM

So, the next question...

Where is a good place to buy a tow bar?

herb101 · 03-21-2007, 05:16 PM

Pep Boys sells the Valley brand unit for about $100 to $125 I think. Most are universal and adjustable and come with brackets and safety chains. You have to install the brackets on the towed vehicle, which can be fun on non-flat bumper faces. I'd stick with the "known" brands of towing gear like Reese, Draw-Tite, Valley, and so forth.

Some vehicles, like Jeeps, have parts available specifically for tow bars. Con-Fer (I think) makes tow bar shackles for Jeeps where the front shackle contains the bar mount - as an example.

Herb

A few 72's · 03-21-2007, 06:06 PM

Looking at pulling a LWB rolling frame no bed, no cab, no motor, no trans, "No Front Springs", does have steering gear box. All freeway, 60-65 MPH, 100 miles or so.
Can I get away with using the towbar to pull the rolling frame?
Shan...

davidh · 03-21-2007, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A few 72's

Looking at pulling a LWB rolling frame no bed, no cab, no motor, no trans, "No Front Springs", does have steering gear box. All freeway, 60-65 MPH, 100 miles or so.
Can I get away with using the towbar to pull the rolling frame?
Shan...

Think you'd be fine with some springs.

flatheadnut0 · 03-21-2007, 07:13 PM

Hey Longhorn,
you are right, back n the day, that's all we had except for the "RN" chain and pipe. And yes I am over 60.
Ol Flatheadnut

LonghornJeff · 03-21-2007, 08:55 PM

Andy is right they are safe......(87 K5 blazers are best for towing

mine has towed three 67-72 trucks.)

Longhorn Man · 03-21-2007, 10:15 PM

Yeah jeff, but they handle a little funny when you strap a one ton truck with stiff steering on there though.

skchevota · 03-21-2007, 10:59 PM

I used to tow my jeep all over with a tow bar, it was great. I had it bolted to the jeep insted of that chain strap thing, but for what you are doing, I wouldnt even wory about lights, just put on the flashers, or get someone to follow you.
As for the tow dolly Question, I towed my 70 3/4 ton loaded full, I mean full of stuff on a dolly behind a 26ft ryder moving truck from cali to colorado with no trouble. The weight stamp on the dolly said 3500# but looking how over built the U haul dolly was I figured that I had 3500# on it and probebly 7k total and it was fine. I even had my truck on it backwords, because even with stock tiers and rims the front axle was to wide to fit on the dolly, but the rear is 3" narrower. I even towed a car about 2 miles with a chain once, by my self! dont ask.

09-21-2006, 01:44 AM	#27
jimfulco Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Shreveport LA Posts: 3,170	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Make sure everything's tight before you leave, then stop after 100 yards or so & retighten. Check it again after a mile or so, then again after a few more miles. Stuff jiggles loose.

09-21-2006, 02:22 AM	#28
69face Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: northridge Posts: 534	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? safe enough i towed my little brothers truck 80 miles at 55mph. __________________ ""A bagged vehicle is only as good as it's wheel/tire combo!" -getlowness! my build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=223747:metal: I'M SO SO CAL!

09-21-2006, 12:18 PM	#29
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? I think I got mine at Wally world too Andy, and it was like $50. Towed the Blazer from Puyallup to Bremerton behind the Suburban. About 60 miles all told. No problems. I tied up the steering wheel though, should have went with it loose. Made those tires drag that way. No worries, just do it! And be careful.... __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

09-21-2006, 04:54 PM	#30
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? man, on passenger vehicles on public roads (excluding millitary stuff) I have tow bar'd; one stripped truck, only bed and rolling frame with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the straight forward position, pulled with a SWB 69 GMC,to the junk yard, 10 miles Pulled the 69 SWB GMC with a 25 foot moving van 1200 miles from tx to oh. Pulled a ranger 3 times locally, ending up at the junk yard... 20 miles or so total, pulled with the 69 pulled the 70 one ton longhorn from PA.. 50 miles west of Philly to here... 650 or so miles, towed with an 87 k/5. Parts truck (again, rolling frame and bed, and also with no steering gear box and the wheels bolted in the forward position) 10 miles to the shop to cut it up. Dragged an S-10 from fort Wayne to Here with the 69, can't even remember the miles on that one. All this with only that one incident I mentioned earlier, and it was easy to steer and throttle out of trouble.

09-22-2006, 11:51 AM	#31
72swbcamo Active Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Waterbury, CT Posts: 591	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? For ChevyBill, and LomghornMan, or anyone else who might be interested: The reason the towed vehicle does not have to have the steering wheel tied or locked is that the front suspension on cars and trucks has geometry build into it what will make the tires try to stay straight or track during turning. When you have your front end aligned the technician checks and/or adjusts as necessary the caster, camber, and toe-in of the front end. The caster of the front end is the degree that the front wheels are tilted off the vertical. This angle causes the front tires to want to stay straight. The principle is similar to the front wheels on a shopping cart, (caster wheels), they will track straight going straight or track the towing vehicle in a turn. Hope this explanation help. Last edited by 72swbcamo; 09-22-2006 at 11:56 AM.

09-25-2006, 04:44 PM	#34
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Around here if the towed vehicles not registered and insured you're not legal and have no liability coverage on either vehicle with a tow bar. __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

09-25-2006, 10:23 PM	#35
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Have to agree that if I was towing a vehicle 5 miles I would use a chain or strap. But, since you're not comfortable about that, here's my advice. I've towed everything from garden tractors to semis with a pickup and a chain, have even used a bar a few times. Towbars are wonderful. Dad and I weren't afraid to use them and go fast. We even pulled a 68 Dodge Polara 200 miles at 80 mph. But we did something most people don't do. Dad drove the towing vehicle, I rode in the vehicle being towed. Hands off the steering wheel, which took some getting used to. But I did run the brakes and turn signals. That way we didn't have to run any wiring for lights, and we had brakes on the towed vehicle, which made it a whole lot easier tow. Most vehicles don't have enough brakes to handle another 2 tons, and you can get in trouble if the brakes get hot. As for using a pipe and a chain, it's okay for short, slow tows on vehicles without brakes. But I have seen more than one bent pipe. You have to know the lmits. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

03-20-2007, 02:20 AM	#37
bad_turbo turbo enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: carmichael, ca. Posts: 1,826	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? does the driveshaft need to be removed before towing a rear wheel drive truck? __________________ "But daddy, I didn't hit them all with a stick"...what my 6 year old tells me when I pick him up from school early for fighting "

03-20-2007, 02:35 AM	#38
cruisinlow67 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: victoria tx Posts: 70	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? ^^^^ no just put it in neutral. we towed my 67 10 miles with a tow bar. no problems.

03-20-2007, 02:49 AM	#39
CrashEd 72 chevy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Central Il Posts: 725	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Fred your dad and my dad must be related LOL!!.

03-20-2007, 05:47 AM	#40
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? if the truck is an automatic, and you are going over 25 MPH, and more than 5 miles, yes, you must drop the saft, or you can ruin the tranny. It'll be spinning with no lube since the pump is friven by the converter, and the converter will be standing still.

03-20-2007, 10:26 PM	#41
texanidiot25 Eat My Rust Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cypress, Texas Posts: 3,362	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Been there, done that. If you dont have an engine in the towed truck, the front tires will tend to screech on some sharp corners, because the tires turn as the truck swivles on the hitch. And with no weight over the front, the tires are light. But if your gonna go freeway speed, you gotta take out the drive shaft w/ auto trans. Unless you like buying a new transmission...

03-21-2007, 12:33 AM	#42
herb101 Used Register Join Date: May 2005 Location: Live Oak, TX Posts: 379	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Hmmm - wonder if I should not have done my flat tow September before last. Pheonix to San Antonio with a 1/2 ton 97 Ford shortbed 2wd pulling a 51 Willys Wagon with full running gear. It did help that the Willys had lockout hubs on all 4 corners - ultimate neutral. Herb

03-21-2007, 04:54 PM	#43
grayw0lf Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Clanton, AL Posts: 1,253	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? So, the next question... Where is a good place to buy a tow bar? __________________ 85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal!

03-21-2007, 05:16 PM	#44
herb101 Used Register Join Date: May 2005 Location: Live Oak, TX Posts: 379	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Pep Boys sells the Valley brand unit for about $100 to $125 I think. Most are universal and adjustable and come with brackets and safety chains. You have to install the brackets on the towed vehicle, which can be fun on non-flat bumper faces. I'd stick with the "known" brands of towing gear like Reese, Draw-Tite, Valley, and so forth. Some vehicles, like Jeeps, have parts available specifically for tow bars. Con-Fer (I think) makes tow bar shackles for Jeeps where the front shackle contains the bar mount - as an example. Herb

03-21-2007, 06:06 PM	#45
A few 72's Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Alabama Posts: 705	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Looking at pulling a LWB rolling frame no bed, no cab, no motor, no trans, "No Front Springs", does have steering gear box. All freeway, 60-65 MPH, 100 miles or so. Can I get away with using the towbar to pull the rolling frame? Shan... Attached Images __________________ 1972 C10 SWB 350 / T400 1972 SWB GMC 350/T350 1972 Cheyenne 20 super "long horn". 402BB / T400 1972 Suburban C10 Deluxe 350 / T350 and a few more.. http://www.myspace.com/afew72s Last edited by A few 72's; 03-21-2007 at 06:08 PM. Reason: add pic to show how low with out springs.

03-21-2007, 07:13 PM	#47
flatheadnut0 New Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: nebraska Posts: 18	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Hey Longhorn, you are right, back n the day, that's all we had except for the "RN" chain and pipe. And yes I am over 60. Ol Flatheadnut

03-21-2007, 08:55 PM	#48
LonghornJeff EZEKIEL 25:17 Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Springfield IL USA Posts: 984	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Andy is right they are safe......(87 K5 blazers are best for towing mine has towed three 67-72 trucks.) Attached Images __________________ 68 CHEVELLE(HORSESHOE) 69 LONGHORN 396 70 NOVA 454(FOR SALE) 71 SWB 307 71 EL CAMINO 383 72 GMC JIMMY 350 87 BLAZER 350 WIW? http://blog.360.yahoo.com/blog-r5CJt...9_6Orzim4L5uWM Gun control, the theory that 110lb. women have the "right" to fistfight with 210lb. rapists. The reason animal rights activists are more passionate about fur than leather is because it's safer to harrass rich women than bikers...

03-21-2007, 10:15 PM	#49
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? Yeah jeff, but they handle a little funny when you strap a one ton truck with stiff steering on there though.

03-21-2007, 10:59 PM	#50
skchevota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Evans, Colorado Posts: 530	Re: Would a tow bar be safe? I used to tow my jeep all over with a tow bar, it was great. I had it bolted to the jeep insted of that chain strap thing, but for what you are doing, I wouldnt even wory about lights, just put on the flashers, or get someone to follow you. As for the tow dolly Question, I towed my 70 3/4 ton loaded full, I mean full of stuff on a dolly behind a 26ft ryder moving truck from cali to colorado with no trouble. The weight stamp on the dolly said 3500# but looking how over built the U haul dolly was I figured that I had 3500# on it and probebly 7k total and it was fine. I even had my truck on it backwords, because even with stock tiers and rims the front axle was to wide to fit on the dolly, but the rear is 3" narrower. I even towed a car about 2 miles with a chain once, by my self! dont ask.

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