Automotive clearcoat on bed wood, how do i get the color?

[lyrikz]

Im doing my own pine bedwood and i want some red wood color to it. What can i put on the wood that will give me the color but then the automotive clear coat will stick to. I know how to paint metal, but im stumped with wood...

[stealthy '69]

You could always go with the old tried and true. Wood stain then, varnish or lacquer clear.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by stealthy '69

You could always go with the old tried and true. Wood stain then, varnish or lacquer clear.

Does that stand up like the clear would???

[BarryB]

I would say it would stndup just as good if not better that auto clear. Personally I wouldn't use auto clear on wood anyways. There are good grade stains and clears out there that will stand up under the weather and such. Like Thompson's and like such.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by BarryB

I would say it would stndup just as good if not better that auto clear. Personally I wouldn't use auto clear on wood anyways. There are good grade stains and clears out there that will stand up under the weather and such. Like Thompson's and like such.

I think im going with automotive because thats what i know.. I dont know wood.

Im going to use pine, i want a red tint to it. I was going to get a stain, stain it, then what is the stuff called that makes it water proof and super shiny?? Is that varnish???

[stealthy '69]

here is a min wax oil based urethane.

http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_b..._urethane.html

it say it's recommended for out door furniture. and you can get it in a gloss finish so I don't see why it wouldn't work.


it looks like they have a water based too if that's what you prefer.

http://www.minwax.com/products/water..._Helmsman.html

[stealthy '69]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Does that stand up like the clear would???

I'm not so sure the auto clear would stand up that well anyway. Pine is a really soft wood and if you put any thing with a little weight or sharp edges to it I would think that the clear would crack, chip or peel away, since the material under it is so soft. Wood products however are designed to soak in a little to help protect the wood. Keep in mind I'm, by no means, a wood working expert. This is just what I remember from shop class and a few small projects I done.

[suville]

If your going to stain pine (a softwood) you need to brush a coat of "Bennite" into it and let it dry then stain if you dont it will look blotchy as soft wood wont take stain evenly. I would use "Minwax" stain products and not an automotive clear. Automotive clear as well as varathane will not last long on wood, personally I would coat it with an oil type topcoat so it has a satin finish then when you need to freshen it up you just apply another coat of oil sealer or top coat. If you go to a House paint supply store I like Benjamin Moore there are others (stay away from Behr) talk to the sales people there and they can help you out another source of information is a floor refinishing business. In all my years of finishing-refinishing metal and wood I've not found any clear top coat that will stand up to what a pick up bed floor will be exposed to ( think deck on you house here) and nothing looks crappier than peeling clear coats on wood and it is a real PITA to refinish such failure. Ask me how I know!

[stealthy '69]

Originally Posted by suville

If your going to stain pine (a softwood) you need to brush a coat of "Bennite" into it and let it dry then stain if you dont it will look blotchy as soft wood wont take stain evenly. I would use "Minwax" stain products and not an automotive clear. Automotive clear as well as varathane will not last long on wood, personally I would coat it with an oil type topcoat so it has a satin finish then when you need to freshen it up you just apply another coat of oil sealer or top coat. If you go to a House paint supply store I like Benjamin Moore there are others (stay away from Behr) talk to the sales people there and they can help you out another source of information is a floor refinishing business. In all my years of finishing-refinishing metal and wood I've not found any clear top coat that will stand up to what a pick up bed floor will be exposed to ( think deck on you house here) and nothing looks crappier than peeling clear coats on wood and it is a real PITA to refinish such failure. Ask me how I know!

How the heck would you know. Just messing with ya.
Well put by the way on going to a paint store and asking someone that would have a better idea.

[jamesi20]

Take a look here...I have used these for repairs on musical instuments and they can get you to just about any color you want with a little bit of experimenting and will mix with just about any top coat you decide on. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishin...uid_Stain.html

[cdowns]

got to a boat supply place for good stuff

[suville]

jamesi20, preciate that link myself it'll come in handy (Im a picker too!)

[Fitz]

Automotive clear coat is not compatible with the resins in pine. A better choice is Sikkens Cetol Marine Gloss. It has a UV blocker in it. That's the finish used on the teak trim on most boats and it is the finish I used on the purpleheart bed of my truck. Available from any boat supply store or via internet at westmarine.com

J.E. Moshers Aniline Dye from Woodworkers Supply @ http://woodworker.com comes in every color imaginable to allow you to reproduce almost any color wood from pine or, if you have an artistic bent violet, blue, green, yellow, red and nigrosene (very very black).

[burke117]

use a marine or spar urethane on your wood. It is meant for outdoor use. It protects against water and the sun's UV rays. It is what they use on boats for that high gloss look on wood.

[mbgmike]

We usually coat them with a good urethane then follow up with automotive clear for final coats. Auto clear gives it a real nice finish.

[suville]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Automotive clear coat is not compatible with the resins in pine. A better choice is Sikkens Cetol Marine Gloss. It has a UV blocker in it. That's the finish used on the teak trim on most boats and it is the finish I used on the purpleheart bed of my truck. Available from any boat supply store or via internet at westmarine.com

J.E. Moshers Aniline Dye from Woodworkers Supply @ http://woodworker.com comes in every color imaginable to allow you to reproduce almost any color wood from pine or, if you have an artistic bent violet, blue, green, yellow, red and nigrosene (very very black).

I would wholeheartedly agree with Sikkens one of the finest finishes Ive ever used and the cetol is what I use on wood entry doors. Sorry i didnt think of it in my earlier post.

[joeelutz]

Good info here

http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by joeelutz

Good info here

http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html

I read that article a few times and im going to go with the Pelucid and the minwax helmsnam spar urethane...

I found a good place to get some inexpensive pine. Whats everyones thoughts on using walnut as a bed floor. The worst thing my bed will see is kids feet...

[burke117]

thats what i used was the Helsman spar yrethane. It looks great

[dan42]

I'm paintin' mine. It's gonna be outside anyways, and it will last a long time and still look good. Plus, I can actually use it then.

[chipflyer]

I stained my oak boards and then used Man-O-War satin spar varnish. 4 coats brushed on per side of board, lots of work but it turned out great.

Jeff

[lyrikz]

What i want to do is use a dark red stain, then add the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane over the top of that. Is that doable??? Im reading up on that helmsman now.

[joeelutz]

Has anyone tried Thomson's water seal?

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

What i want to do is use a dark red stain, then add the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane over the top of that. Is that doable??? Im reading up on that helmsman now.

Well, did some research and failed. lol. I cant tell if you can stain wood then use the helmsman. I even emailed minwax. I know you cant stain and use the pelucid from por15, but im not to worried about that... I dont trust my Lowe's employees here. They dont know much.

[chipflyer]

I wouldn't trust Lowes either. Go to a paint store and get their opinion. I bought the stain and the spar varnish for my wood at the local Benjamin Moore store. The guy even opened 3 different cans of stain and did a few scrap pieces of oak to show me how dark each got. A paint store will without a doubt tell you what products of theirs can be used over others.

Jeff