Project Family Chummins

[Ackattack]

Decided to start on wiring up the tach.

I found some instructions online where someone had hooked up a tach using the cummins balancer sensor. Following that I soldered in a 1k ohm resistor. The orange wire is a 12V wire, the gray wire (IIRC) is the tach signal, and the other wire is a ground. I had an old gas tach (that doesn't read acurately) and hooked it up to this to verify that I had a signal. When I hooked it up the tach read about 300 RPMS (about what is expected since there are only 2 pulses per revolution, not 4 like a V8 tach expects)



Then I ran the signal wire into the cab. I also found what I believe to be the tach signal wire that did go to the distributor (its a white wire that was marked tach, so assuming I marked it accurately when I removed the 454, this should be it) I ran that into the cab as well.

Then I hooked up my Dakota digital box and mounted on the bar that goes across the bottom of the dash. I didn't have the instructions on what switches needs to be where, so I didn't actually get the tach to work. I was getting a blinking green light which indicates it is getting a signal.



I found the instructions online for this, so I'm hoping I can get it all to work. One thing is I put a diesel guage cluster in, so its possible that the tach signal is looking for something other than what the gas tach is looking for. So that may be why it wasn't working. If I can't get that to work, I can swap in my gas instrument panel and hopefully that will work.....to be continued

[Ackattack]

Armed with the instructions for the Dakota Digital tach box, I set out to get the tach working.

Well the diesel gauge cluster just flat out didn't work. So I swapped in the gas gauge cluster. The tach worked. Now just to get it calibrated. I read through the instructions and started trying to calibrate it. To make a long story short, I think my calibration box is not working. I need it to be about 1.55x. It wouldn't got over 1x, even though according to the instructions it would. So I'll call Dakota Digital tomorrow and see what's up.

[jbmatth]

I love what you have done with this truck, it is coming along great. I'll be keeping an eye on it. As for your comment on the wiring for the alarm, my experience has been that the instructions are terrible! I have an 06 silverado and picked up one of the most common alarm/remote start/keyless entry systems I could thinking I'd be able to pull it off no problem. As you are finding out it isn't practical to do if you're not a dealer. I'm going to pay the $200 to them and drive away knowing it was done correctly. Good luck with your truck.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by jbmatth

I love what you have done with this truck, it is coming along great. I'll be keeping an eye on it. As for your comment on the wiring for the alarm, my experience has been that the instructions are terrible! I have an 06 silverado and picked up one of the most common alarm/remote start/keyless entry systems I could thinking I'd be able to pull it off no problem. As you are finding out it isn't practical to do if you're not a dealer. I'm going to pay the $200 to them and drive away knowing it was done correctly. Good luck with your truck.

Correctly NEVER involves the use of scotch-locks!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ackattack]

I called Dakota Digital and talked to one of their techs. I was not impressed. This guys seemed as though he just started and couldn't answer what one of the switches does. I'm pretty sure it should change it from the "hi" calibration table to the "low" calibration table and doesn't seem to be working. But without a wiring diagram to figure out how this box does what its doing, I'm not sure. He did say that their speedometer box (SGI-5) should be able to convert the signal. All he knew was that his notes said that it wouldn't work with a harmonic balancer trigger. My thinking is a signal is a signal, and it shouldn't matter where it comes from (as long as its the right type of signal) This box will convert the signal down, just not up (hence why I think the cal range swith isn't working)

Anyways, the SGI-5 box is on its way. I'm actually probably going to get another one of these to run the speedo off the rear axle.

In other news: I got the lift pump installed. For as simple as it is, it took me more than time expected. About 3 hours. In the process I did remove the fuel heater which apparently doesn't really help with anything and only creates problems by allowing air to be sucked into the fuel. I never did plug the fuel heater in when I wired everthing up.

[Ackattack]

Finally back at it!

Like I had mentioned before, I put the lift pump on. What I didn't mention was that after the install I was leaking a bunch of oil. The lift pump is in a place where its difficult to see, and the rear gasket had slipped off on of the bolts, therefore not sealing all the way around.

Then I went to Washington DC and NYC for a week. Then this week I've been super busy, but finally got time to correct the gasket.

I also managed to sell the dually bed today as well as make a trip to the metal recycling place where I scrapped the dodge cab and other junk. Overall I put $350 back in my pocket

[ryanroo]

Nice!

anything on the tach/speedo?

[Ackattack]

I stopped by the local cummins dealer and got 2 lift pump gaskets and got them installed. A lot easier than the first time I did it

I also adjusted the drag link so my steering wheel is pretty close to being straight now.

So tomorrow I'm driving it to work....daily driver time!

I also got a note on my door from Fed Ex....my running boards are in but they require a signature, so I have to go pick them up since I kinda work all day when fed ex delivers....kinda annoying, but I'll live.

[Ackattack]

Tonight I tackled the overhead console wiring. Basically the "conversion" overhead console had non-factory wiring. So I tapped into one wire (for the pasenger visor light) and ran another wire, hooked it all up and now my map lights work and my homelink garage door opener works!

And since we all love pictures:

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work!!

[jbclassix]

Is that homelink section removeable and independant? I have the oldschool push button pocket and would love to upgrade.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Is that homelink section removeable and independant? I have the oldschool push button pocket and would love to upgrade.

yeah, it just snaps into place of the garage door opener door thing.

you have to hook up a ground wire, constant, and ignition wire and you're in business. I got it at the salvage yard for $10 (cheaper than a new garage door remote at home depot!)

[Ackattack]

Stopped by the salvage yard today and got a "new" headlight switch plug. The one on my truck has a big wire shoved into it, a wire nut, and the plastic plug is a little melted. This then causes it to jump to another wire turning the headlights on. Hasn't really been too much of an issue, but I know it needs corrected, so now I just have to pull all the pins out of the old plug and install into the new one and then cut off the one big wire with the wire nut and connect up the new wire.

I also got a center dome light while I was there.

My next stop was by Fed Ex to pickup my nerf bars (or whatever you call them...running boards...whatever). In order to install them, I had to trip a little bit of this lip on the bottom of the rocker pinch weld (as the instructions say to do) and then drill a couple of holes through the rocker. Then they just bolt on. The way its all situated, the nuts are kind of a pain to get to, so I only got the drivers side on tonight:





These are N-fab brand and appear to be made pretty well. I really like the looks of them, and on this truck are definitely necessary.

[Ackattack]

I got the pass. side nerf bar installed tonight.

I also got the dome light installed that I picked up from the salvage yard the other day.

Finally I hooked up the speedo. Rather than messing with trying to get the transmission speedo output to work (Dodge uses 3 wires, GM uses 2) I decided to use the abs speed sensor that is in the rear end. I twisted two wires together (I think it is supposed to cancel out noise) and ran it up to my Dakota Digital box (SLG-5). Then I ran a wire back through the firewall to where the speedo use to get its signal from the ECM. Well I had 2 green wires to choose from (labeled "1" and "2"....whoever did that was a genious) I got luck and got the right one and the speedo moved. It showed about 80 rolling out of the garage . I played around with it a little more and got it to read where it seemed like it might be acurate. Well I drove around the neighborhood and I'm so close, but it's at its min. value, so as it sits right now, it reads 41 when I'm going 38. I'm going to play around with this box a little more and hopefully get it dialed in right. Then hopefully I can hook it up to the cruise control box and get that going too!!!!

[Palf70Step]

A video of you going 80 out of the garage would have been cool

[ryanroo]

I am interested in how you like the dakota stuff. i am really considering their gauge panel and a few of the add ons for my truck. its nice that you can get all the extra gauge readings without needing the actual guages.

Ryan

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

I am interested in how you like the dakota stuff. i am really considering their gauge panel and a few of the add ons for my truck. its nice that you can get all the extra gauge readings without needing the actual guages.

Ryan

Well I got the speedo dialed in to where it reads correctly. I didn't get a chance to see try the cruise control.

Also, since I couldn't get the tach to work correctly off of the factory dodge sensor (I think my dakota digital box is messed up). Anyways, I'm going to hopefully have the alternator worked on to have it interanally regulated and a tach sensor lead installed. Right now all of my lights pulse and its annoying. Hopefully an internally regulated alt will take care of this.

[Dieselwrencher]

Just replace the dodge external regulator with a ford regulator like Vman did on his 89 Suburban. The pulsating will go away. Is your balancer still 2 notches? I've had 2 more milled in to them and got the tachs to work.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Just replace the dodge external regulator with a ford regulator like Vman did on his 89 Suburban. The pulsating will go away. Is your balancer still 2 notches? I've had 2 more milled in to them and got the tachs to work.

I installed a dodge regulator....I guess maybe it just sucks.

Oh, I had read on 4btswap.com that others had their dodge alternators modified to be internally regulated and have a tach lead installed. I called all of the alternator repair shops around here and none of them said they could do it, and acted like I was stupid for asking.

[RatRod68]

sweet mother of Jesus. I am in love

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I installed a dodge regulator....I guess maybe it just sucks.

Oh, I had read on 4btswap.com that others had their dodge alternators modified to be internally regulated and have a tach lead installed. I called all of the alternator repair shops around here and none of them said they could do it, and acted like I was stupid for asking.

You can also purchase a single wire alt from destroked. I think they are $240 or $250.

[Ackattack]

Woohoo....found a guy at work that can weld aluminum for me. We're going to narrow the innercooler at the top to allow for clearance for the headlights. Right now they're pushed all the way out and interfere with the grill.

Then I'm going to get some of those clear headlights, cause mine have a horrible yellow haze over them and don't put out much light. Then I can also get a new grill (since this one is cracked and trimmed for the headlights) for when it gets painted. Also, I want to get the intercooler modified before I do my A/C.

[Ackattack]

So tonight's project: add a "w" terminal to my stock 2nd gen dodge alternator.

First, remove the alternator and put it on the bench front side down:


Next remove the cover. It requires removing about 6 small nuts and 1 larger one (on the charging terminal)


Then figure out where you want to run your wire. I looked at the cover and found one that looked convienent. Drilled a hole in the cover. I put a small terminal on a wire and put two pieces of heat shrink on it (2 layers that is) and hooked it up to one of the terminals of the stator.



Then fish the wire through the hole in the cover and put the nuts back on.



Re-install.

That's it, really easy.

I ran the wire to my diesel guage cluster and it worked. Granted, the signal I'm getting from the alternator is showing ~700 rpms when the engine is running ~960, so I'll still have to run it through a box to calibrate the signal. This was so easy, I'm not sure why people would mess with running a chevy diesel alternator on a cummins. I would imagine that with the pulley size differences, the rpms would still be off.

[Ackattack]

Just ordered a Texas Chili Dog



http://www.standardtransmission.com/dodge.html

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Just ordered a Texas Chili Dog



http://www.standardtransmission.com/dodge.html

But does it have a turbo?