Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck

[ATVYP]

Sorry for the delayed postings. I'm not sure where I left off.

I had been shopping around for the serpentine belt / power steering pump / AC compressor assembly. On my "wish list" was a TPI fuel injection assembly. Wow did I hit the jack pot! While searching for the front assembly, I found the entire 1989 5.0 HO IROC Camaro engine - the ENTIRE engine. The car had been sitting in someone's yard and they where parting it out. I purchased the ENTIRE engine for less than I could find just the power steering / belt assembly.

[ATVYP]

I know that I've probably gone a step too far sometimes, and there is a fine line between "trailer queen" and "fun driver" but I really hate cutting corners. So I took the die grinder to all the parts, shaved all the casting flaws off of almost everything I can find, and it really looks good. It is LOTS of work and takes LOTS of time, but I still believe it's worth it.

The plan is to assemble the entire truck, make all the cuts / welds / brackets necessary, and then take it back apart to paint it. For right now, I just plan to paint the aluminum pieces. My overall dream would be to chrome most of it, but I can't afford that and I don't want to spend the time polishing all that aluminum right now. Down the road it will be very easy to take pieces off and individually chrome or polish as necessary.

[ATVYP]

I hope I'm not breaking any rules, but I thought it may be pretty fun to post a few pics of my some of my peer-group's rides.

Roger Hogan is the pastor of a neighboring Free Will Baptist Church. He is a great guy, has been a great source of advice and counsel through the years, and he won the Goodguy's Truck of the Year last year! He had to place top in several of the major district car shows to qualify to enter the major one in Texas. He has the nicest truck I have every seen, a 55' Ford F100. This thing is like a Picoso - you can't really understand how breathtaking this truck is without seeing it in person. I know this is a Chevy Truck forum, so sorry for posting a pic of a Ford, but this is one cool ride. If you would like to see more pics of it, look at: http://www.rkmotorscharlotte.com/sal.../133293/190102

Next is another good friend's two AMAZING rides. The first is Ted Tenholder's Mustang. Sorry, I don't remember the year, I think it's a 69' - but I'm sure everyone else will definitely know. If I could have any car I wanted, this one would be on my top 5 list for sure. Secondly is his (70' or 71') Dodge Challenger RT. I believe there where only about 2000 true RTs made that year, and this is one of them - and it is PERFECT!!! Just like it rolled off the showroom floor. They do amazing and professional work. He and his buddy Clay are just finishing up the last few details, and I believe this thing is worth between $100,000 and $125,000. It has the 340 with 6 packs, 4 speed - this is basically a factory race car.

Again, I apologize if I broke any rules posting Ford and Chrysler pictures on a Chevy Truck website, but I thought it would be beneficial to show some of my network's cars.

[ATVYP]

One last thing tonight. I wanted to run all the parts possible within the frame rails. I know many caution this, but if done right there is no problem. Roger Hogan's main advice was to either hide things or make them stand out. He has always given me great advice.

It took the majority of a full day's work and much time thinking, but I mounted the 2 residual valves back to back, and the proportioning valve behind. Getting the brake lines plumbed correctly, safely, and functionally was some work, but I think I got the job done!

If you are interested, the residual valves should be used when mounting the master cylinder low, like under the cab. You should run 2 psi for disc brakes, and 10 psi for drum brakes. This keeps the fluid from returning all into the master and then prevents a low brake pedal. The proportioning valve controls the delay of the rear brakes. 70% of the braking power is from the front brakes, and if not adjusted correctly the rear brakes won't do much or they will lock up too soon. I've seen lots of guys cut corners here, and I just don't feel that is wise. My proportioning valve also has a brake light switch in it. There are ups and downs to a pressure-controlled brake switch, but it will work well for my needs. The disadvantage is you must actually have brake line pressure to activate the lights, so tapping the pedal to knock off cruise isn't as easy. However, this way EVERYTHING is hidden and easy - no need for a complicated micro switch I have to mount somewhere and then repeatedly adjust. Pretty trick stuff.

It's a shame I don't have better pictures, and recent. I guess you can't ever take too many! I also have 2 DOT approved stainless brake hose that connect the pass-through connector in the boxing plate to the brake master. I'm still trying to figure out what thread / flare style a 93' Corvette brake master uses. I keep reading conflicting info, and I've ordered parts 3 times to no avail - but I guess practice makes perfect!

[ATVYP]

Here is a picture of the TPI Harness schematic I modified to help me trace down wires, troubleshoot, and remember how I did it. Also, a GREAT resource for TPI wiring is at Hot Rod Handbooks. The website is:
http://www.hotrodhandbooks.com.au/eBooks/TPI/IX.html

Or the pdf. can be found at:
american-dreams-racing.com/files/TPI%20Handbook.pdf

Another great resource is this guy at ChevyThunder.com
http://chevythunder.com/since_its_inception_in_1985.htm

There are many more - too many to mention right now. Attached are my notes, so far... I had to convert from a .docx to a .rtf, so I apologize if something doesn't look right or is missing. I'll also try to update it when necessary.

[ATVYP]

The wire harness is turning out very well. I set the entire harness on the engine, plugged in all the wires to sensors and aprox locations, then zip tied them together in a neat and straight manner with cheap little ties. Then I was able to set the harness on the floor and work on soldering wires at night when time allows. The harness starts at the front of the engine at the alt and AC compressor, then runs down the center of the manifold under the upper plenum. All the sensors, and wires plug into the 1 wire that runs to the back of then engine, down the transmission, and into the cab under the seat where the ECM, all the relays, and the fuse panel will all be located neatly and clean.

The steering column turned out very well also. The column drops about 1/2" below the bottom of the dash, and this appears to be perfect ergonomics for the seat / cluster / pedal locations. The column is tilt and telescopic, so it is adjustable in many ways to compensate for driver preference.

[ATVYP]

I took these pics before going home to visit my parents for Thanksgiving. Cont...

[ATVYP]

I ordered 1 single 3/4" DD steering u-joint (good up to 30 degree bend), and then I took the original upper steering joint and shaft off the 93' Vette door parts and modified the shaft to work. At first I was concerned that the aluminum would be too soft to be used in the DD joint, but as I began to cut and file the shaft, it was more difficult to cut than many steel components. I could not believe it! I cut the shaft, then filed in the 2 DD flats so they fit exact. It worked out very good, but I must admit I've never worked with "air craft aluminum" used on these Vettes, and this material is the lightest and toughest stuff I've ever seen. It is incredible. I plan to raise the carrier support bearing about 1/2 up. The current angle is 29-30 degrees, which is safe, but I have the room to raise it and drop the angle pitch enough that it may help with longevity and steering effort. I'm not positive, but it's worth the effort to be safe.

[ATVYP]

This finishes up the progress up to Thanksgiving 12'. Looking back 1 year ago, at times it feels I should be done, but in other ways I am VERY pleased how much work has been accomplished, and the quality of work.

I am glad I took the time to do everything right, and held to the higher standard. There are definitely times I must intentionally resist the temptation to move too quickly. I encourage others to take their time and do it right - it's always worth it in the end.

[fishmunger]

wow, amazing work and really coming along! Nice attention to detail. Cool that you get to work with your boys as well.

[67cheby]

WOW, i havent checked in in a while , looking GREAT !

[old yelr]

Are you using the factory cab mounts with the wood blocks etc, or something else?

[ATVYP]

Originally Posted by old yelr

Are you using the factory cab mounts with the wood blocks etc, or something else?

We are not using the factory wood blocks for cab mounts. This is something that my dad figured out during the first build, and he did a great job. For the front pads Dad used a very thick piece of rubber that was cut in the same fashion as the original pad (but perhaps a little bigger), but it matches the thickness and general idea of the original deteriorated front. We are using a rubber mount with a thick washer used as a shim so the thickness matches the factory block thickness. This worked out very well, and looks good too. The rubber mounts look very similar to the radiator mounts used by several semi truck manufactures (like Freightliner and Kenworth), when the large radiators set on the two mounts with 1/2 bolts. I'm not sure the specific application Dad used, but that's what it looks like to me. I'm really pleased with how they appear, meaning it does not look hacked or cobbled together, and actually performs better than the factory wood blocks.

I have heard from many people that the trick polyurethane mounts may work well, but are notorious for endless squeaking and noise that consistently return, even after using some of the tips and tricks to keep that from happening. I personally really like the polyurethane, but I also know the body mounts are hidden (for the most part) and it would be a pain in the neck to re-lubricate them after a noise develops (or that fantom squeak from nowhere appears that we have all hunted down for months and sometimes just learned to live with...). I really like the way these rubber mounts look and work, and would feel comfortable advising others to use at their discretion.

If it will help, I'll try to take some pictures of them.

[docrock]

Great project and excellent pics. Do your side windows have frames or are they all glass? If they are all glass what did you use for regulators and bottom of window track? Thanks

[ATVYP]

Originally Posted by docrock

Great project and excellent pics. Do your side windows have frames or are they all glass? If they are all glass what did you use for regulators and bottom of window track? Thanks

Sorry about the late reply, friend. At this time the windows are all stock and run the stock metal frame. I have not taken them apart or looked too closely at them since Dad put it together 20 years ago, but I'm sure I will want to see your progress to get good ideas about what way I should go when that time comes!

[ATVYP]

It has been a difficult season of life the last few months, but amongst life and ministry’s events I was able finish some side work and collect a bunch of parts. If anyone needs help turning up a mid 90’s 12-valve Cummins with the P7100 Inline Bosch let me know because I can offer some great tips. Today I was able to start back doing some things.

I originally ordered a set of C4 stainless braided brake lines, but the front lines where about 4” too short. After measuring and re-measuring again I ordered 2 18” DOT approved brake lines from JEGS. There are many non-DOT approved brake lines available, but it was worth the peace of mind and a few bucks to order them. I’ve looked at 100s of pictures of other Flatout Engineering and other various IFS swaps, but I’m not always pleased with how the front lines are routed, and that balance between looks and safety. Some are just plain silly the way they are ran, but others just cosmetically look off or distracting. It was very important to me to run everything as hidden but accessible as possible, yet safe and practical. I believe I found the perfect balance, but time will tell. I drilled the front holes (I believe 5/8” holes) behind the cross member, and on the right side it is above but in line with my fuel bulkhead pass-through fittings. I split the difference between the back of the welded cross member and the frame recess. It appears to have proper clearance and length with the wheels turned either direction, with suspension compressed or free.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Looking pretty great man KEEP it UP !!

[tires2burn]

You have done a lot of very nice modifications on your truck. The first time you take it out you will be all smiles. Keep it up.

[ATVYP]

My crazy season of church camps and non-stop activities is nearly over. Updates soon!

[fabguy]

Your truck is looking great, I really love the vette suspension and plan to use it in my next build. Keep up the great work
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[BOXER957]

Fantastic build! Great pics! I have a 46 that my dad bought 44 years ago with the intention of leaving to me....well he did. He tore it apart ,every nut and rusty bolt, then gave it to me and moved to Fl. I'm sloooowly building it as $$ and my body permits (I'm disabled, 14 messed up discs) so working on it is a slow process. I know mine won't come out nearly as nice as yours, but it's great to see the pics so I can kinda get an idea of how it's supposed to go back together. Fantastic job, thanks for the pics, once I get a little more accomplished I may do a similar thread but the other end of the spectrum, a 46 on a low$ budget.

[ATVYP]

I have much to update, so will have to do over a few posts. Here are a few pictures that I will go back and explain. These are the Camara V8 T5 transmission with the S10 Tail Shaft housing.

[ATVYP]

I have modified the transmission crossmember, and it turned out good, but I guess I don't have any pictures of it yet.

[ATVYP]

I fill in the details soon, but had time to post a few pictures before teaching tonight.

[ATVYP]

To those who may have been following this build, I apologize for not updating more regularly. I get tired at night sooner that I use to! I have been working pretty solid on things when able to (been doing lots of side work too, to pay bills), but I don't have pictures of everything. I'll do my best to fill in details. If I missed anything or skipped anything you need to know, just ask.

I finished welding up and installing the master cylinder access plate in the floor under the seat. I don't think I have all the pictures necessary, but I will post more soon. Very pleased how it turned out. Also, I had fought finding correct adapter fittings for the C5 master cylinder / AN fitting, so I figured something else out that worked well. I tapped the hole for NPT, then purchased a second tap, cut the end off, then tapped clean to the end where the NPT threads are large enough that the fitting could enter the full way into the whole, rather than sticking out. I used a heavy duty lock tight style thread sealer. I hope I never have to pull it out, but it will be permanently sealed.

I have also finished modifying / grinding / working on the several of the parts, including the engine brackets in the front.