"Pinché Caliché" '57 StepSide/LSx/CrownVic

[ChuckDriver]

Cool project!!!

[t-tung]

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Here's the motor mount bolted up in pieces and then finally bolted to the block. They bolted up beautifully and only needed a small amount of grinding on one corner of the Ford MM to clear the AC compressor bracket. The oil dip stick tube is going to have to be rebent to go around the bracket OR what I'm probably going to end up doing is running one of the flexible braided hose sticks from Lokar.... same thing I'm going to run for the tranny, not because I need to but because i think they look badass.
Here it is set in place. The headers clear the steering barely but you can see how much room I have to play with between the valve covers and the firewall. Also, because it's sits so low, there will be ZERO trimming of the firewall to clear the tranny. Going to use the stock "low" tranny cover in the cab too. Once I build the new brackets to move the whole assembly back 2.5", they header/steering clearance will be MUCH more manageable.
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Anyone know where I can find this steering setup?
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[t-tung]

Sorry about the big pics. Imageshack pics are way too small and these Photobucket pics are a little big. Tired of posting all of these pics to Facebook and liking them.

[Kim57]

Looks like you're making good progress.
Kim

[Spblack]

not sure if its the pictures but that engine looks too far forward. Have you tried putting the front clip on it? may not have much room for fan.

[yossarian19]

Looks good.
For grins, you might put the radiator support on the frame and measure how much space you've got for a fan. From experience I can say that it's a PITA to put a fan in front of the radiator but behind the grill. You'd do well to have at least 3" from water pump / crank pulley to radiator.

[t-tung]

It is definitely too far forward. That's what I was explaining that I had to build another mount to move everything back another 2.5". Then everything will be peachy.

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Looks good.
For grins, you might put the radiator support on the frame and measure how much space you've got for a fan. From experience I can say that it's a PITA to put a fan in front of the radiator but behind the grill. You'd do well to have at least 3" from water pump / crank pulley to radiator.

That's what I was figuring. I picked up a fan and shroud from the junkyard for really cheap but I think it's going to be too deep. May end up buying a slim one. I'm going back in with the original radiator

[yossarian19]

Gotcha.
If you plan to run a column shift for the trans, might I recommend using a cable kit instead of a linkage? Moving it back, you may run into valve cover clearance issues. Ask me how I know.
Anyway, probably enough armchair hot rodding from me. Carry on

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Gotcha.
If you plan to run a column shift for the trans, might I recommend using a cable kit instead of a linkage? Moving it back, you may run into valve cover clearance issues. Ask me how I know.
Anyway, probably enough armchair hot rodding from me. Carry on

No I appreciate the input. The donor Tahoe comes with a cable operated shifter. I figured the linkage type would be a headache to fit AND get geometry right. Eventually I'll go with a nice Lokar floor shifter but for right now, I'll be shifting from the column.

[Spblack]

I have those same dingo motor mounts. they are adjustable. just slide your motor back. it should eliminate the oil line issue as well as giving you room for your radiator.

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by Spblack

I have those same dingo motor mounts. they are adjustable. just slide your motor back. it should eliminate the oil line issue as well as giving you room for your radiator.

They are slid all the way back. I could run them backwards on the wrong sides, but I'd have to get rid of A/C which I'm a little reluctant to do here in south Texas. 100*+ with 80% humidity can be miserable with no A/C.

[t-tung]

A little update with pics. Got the tranny crossmember fabbed out of some 1/2" x 3" strap and installed along with new rubber mount (couldn't find a poly one in my short look locally).
Hacked up the brake bedal assembly/bracket and got it mounted along with the booster.
Tore the steering column apart to remove the shifter mechanism. I decided to same myself the headache of jacking with the stock cable and went with a 23" Lokar floor shifter. It already came in and looks bada$$. Now I'm just waiting on my raw Lokar window cranks and door handles so I can blue them all. I cut the original e-brake and dash support bracket out of the truck. I'm either going to mount it on the floor next to the shifter or hang it vertically to the left next to the wall of the cab. Anyways, I cut the mounting brackets off of the steering column and bolted them to the firewall and bottom of the dash (after a lot of cutting and grinding on the firewall). Then I clamped the clean column in place and tacked it....checked clearance and straightness then unbolted it and welded it up. Next I'll get the steering shaft fabbed up, gas pedal installed, and then pull it all out and paint the brackets and column with Chassis Saver along with the firewall.

I forgot to get pics of the relocation mounts I made for the motor but it set the valve-covers a little over an inch from the firewall. I'm happy with it.















Oh yeah, already dreaming about my next project. Thinking about a D-Max/Allison with a flatbed to lug my welding machine around on and tow my jeep with. Maybe a 6BT/NV4500 since it already has a straight-6 in it. The engine compartment looked really narrow

[t-tung]

Tow/haul will be mounted on the dash with a lighted push-button or toggle.

[Kim57]

Nice progress.
Nice job on the trans cross member.
Kim

[t-tung]

Well I found my new LEAST favorite thing to do....stick welding sheet metal. What made it worst is it seems like the donor bed I chose is some sort of alloy. It came out of a 94 Z71. If I had to do it again I would have picked an early 80s bed. I started out with 1/16" 6013s. They did alright but burned REALLY fast. Ended up with some 3/32" 500 series rods I bought some time ago for welding stainless and dissimilar exhaust pipe. Turned the machine way down and it seemed to weld a lot better. It looks like hell but after beating on and around the welds they are staying put. I'm going to touch them up with a flapper wheel and having a bedliner shot heavy over it. Anyways it was nice to finally get the bed "on" to see what it is going to look like. I still need to notch the middle crossmember on the bed to accommodate the "humps" in the frame above the axle.



Got the DBW gas pedal re-wired (took length out of the harness), mocked up and then hacked the offset bar off and made a straight one with the stock pedal and spring. I think it looks badass.

[Kim57]

Nice progress.
Part of your welding problem could be because it looks like you didn't clean the metal around your joints. Rust and paint are going to cause some problems.
Kim

[t-tung]

Yeah I think you're right. I don't think I cleaned a big enough area around it. When we first tacked it in, the welds were popping. Went back and cleaned it and re-tacked it and they held. One of the biggest problems was getuing a good tight fit. Any little gap would blow out.

[yossarian19]

Ride height looks very nice - like it's still a truck but it might make it around a corner without your palms sweating, too.

[OneOffStroker]

Bed looks good. I'd like to think I provided a bit of inspiration for that one. I can't wait to get back to the US so that I can get jamming on my '57 again.

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker

Bed looks good. I'd like to think I provided a bit of inspiration for that one. I can't wait to get back to the US so that I can get jamming on my '57 again.

Thank you. Can't wait to get the bedliner sprayed in it. Yessir, you did. And if I had to do it again I would have take metal out of the middle like you did instead of cutting the tubs out completely and refitting them. Would have been much easier. I was just worried about having an odd sized rib right down the middle of the bed. I've just had it in my mind for a while about how I was going to do it. Lesson learned. Next one I do I'll have a little MIG and I'll split it down the middle.

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Ride height looks very nice - like it's still a truck but it might make it around a corner without your palms sweating, too.

Thanks. It would t hurt my feelings if it were a hair lower but I like how it looks. The extra heights will leave room for the side exit exhaust I have planned for it. I don't have room to go over the rear axle and I don't really want to dump it.

[yossarian19]

Going full side pipes or just dumping it there?
Also - if you think of it - can we get a sheet metal to ground or hub center to fender measurement?

[t-tung]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Going full side pipes or just dumping it there?
Also - if you think of it - can we get a sheet metal to ground or hub center to fender measurement?

To the bottom of the step it's right around 11.5-12"...... That's with a 30.5" tall tire. It should be perfect with about 6-7" clearance under the 3 1/2" pipe poking out under the step.

[t-tung]

Haven't posted in a while so figured I'd give a little update. I've got the motor and trans in for HOPEFULLY the last time. Had to notch the frame on the passenger side to give the header a little extra room for when the motor torques. Cleaned up the firewall too before I put everything back in. It's amazing what a little CLR and elbow grease will do. Sprayed a clear enamel over it.




I hacked up a C4 tranny pan to cover up the unsightly hole in the firewall where the battery tray heater blower motor was. Cut a 2" hole in it, ran the PSI harness through it into the engine bay and wired up the engine. It seriously only took 20 minutes to wire the whole engine bay. I was blown away at how easy it was and how well the harness was laid out. I'd definitely recommend them for anyone looking to swap an LS motor in their ride.




I've run the fuel line from the motor to the filter and pump under the cab. Just waiting on some fittings and hose to run it from the pup to the fuel cell in the bed and run the return line along side it from the motor to the tank.

Moving inside, I'm wiring up everything under the dash. I've got the ignition harness figured out, but I'm stuck on the wiper/cruise/blinker harness. None of the diagrams or color charts have been any help at all. I tried hooking up power to the red wire and checking each wire with a test light for power while going through all of the functions with no luck. I know none of them will work without keyed power on but I'm not getting any to go hot with any switch functions. I've gotta be missing something or going about it all wrong. This is what I've got. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm pulling all my hair out.


Also working on wiring and mounting the dual brake switch from PSI. Mounting is proving to be a b-i-otch. There's gotta be an easy way to do it.