1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build

[Xeen]

The good news is this isn't the space shuttle so there isn't millions of parts, there is more like a couple hundred and the vast majority of parts can only be installed one way so it's nearly impossible to screw it up so no worries there.
You are going to be learning things about the k10 pickup that you never knew and may not have wanted to know but you will know it all by the time you are finished.
Go slow, take your time, watch videos, ask questions, learn as much about it as you can and you will do fine.
If you have never been an overachiever in life now is the time to start, do the best job you can on everything you touch.

[litew8]

Great suggestions and comments by all.

[0311Chevy8152]

I have been spending my efforts removing bed bolts. Man are they fun! I have all of the passenger side out and started working on the driver side. It's just as enjoyable as the passenger side. I figured no one wanted to see bolt holes so I've attached a picture of the rear end and the front end. The rear has a Dana 60 with a ARB air locker. The leaf springs are sitting on approximately 4" blocks. I want to get rid of the block, I believe unless someone says not to, and just have leaf springs equaling 6" of lift. The front end has a Dana 44 with limited slip. It has leaf springs with what I think is an ORD shackle flip equaling 6" of lift. There is also 2" of body lift for a total of 8". On the front I want instal an air locker and new shocks front and rear.

[ol'blu72]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

I have been spending my efforts removing bed bolts. Man are they fun! I have all of the passenger side out and started working on the driver side. It's just as enjoyable as the passenger side.

I used an air chisel on my bolts, they were way to rusted to get out. First tried a grinder but the air chisel was quicker and easier and less collateral damage. Got it a harbor freight for like 20-30 bucks, worth every penny. I just knocked the heads off from the top and knocked the bolts out.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by ol'blu72

I used an air chisel on my bolts, they were way to rusted to get out. First tried a grinder but the air chisel was quicker and easier and less collateral damage. Got it a harbor freight for like 20-30 bucks, worth every penny. I just knocked the heads off from the top and knocked the bolts out.

Thank you for the advice. This might sound crazy but I'm using this as a workout as well as a truck build. I have been sitting on my butt waiting for the VA to fix me for two years. So this is my first attempt at using my new hip and hopefully loosing some weight. So no power tools yet except I used a screw gun to take out a screw.

[0311Chevy8152]

I would have the bed off by now if it wasn't for three bolts seized with rust inside of the body lift blocks. I have them soaking in wd40 hopefully I'll get them to break free. If you have a way for dealing with them I'm all ears.

[First c10]

Milwaukee sawsall with a long metel blade?

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by First c10

Milwaukee sawsall with a long metel blade?

If I could get the blocks to move down a little from the bed I could fit a blade but right now it's sealed pretty tight. I guess I could saw through the plastic but it would be a mess.

[litew8]

They'll (bushings) need replaced anyway? PB Blaster is another good product.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by litew8

They'll (bushings) need replaced anyway?

Yes. I plan on replacing everything I can. I really do not want to have a body lift but either I go with larger leaf springs to compensate for the loss of 2" or go to a smaller tire. I think I'm going to go with a smaller tire from 37 to 35.

[First c10]

A complete body lift costs about 70$ I would just cut the block & bolts and be down. But that's me.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by First c10

A complete body lift costs about 70$ I would just cut the block & bolts and be down. But that's me.

I'll give it till tomorrow and then bring out the saw. Running a saw could be good stress relief. Anything negative about having a body lift? I grew up with a negative impression of them but that might because of how they were used in the wrong way.

[First c10]

I had an 85 Chevy k10 step side with 17/40 Dick Cepeks with 15x14 Alcoas. I had 8" of suspension lift and 3" body. The big Problem I had was getting the bumpers right and hiding the gap under the bed. You could see through the beds for the frame at the rear fender wells. Other than that No problems they give you clearance for cheap.

[Xeen]

The easiest way to get it out would be a jack if you can manage to get some sort of extension on there at an angle.
If that fails you could drill out the rivets for the leaf spring mounting brackets to gain direct access to the bolt.
You could also center drill the head of the bolt from the top and then take a punch and hand sledge and drive the stud down and out.
Are you sure the heads of those bolts aren't spot welded?
There is 100 different ways to skin this cat, try some of them.

[0311Chevy8152]

Brian I was thinking the exact same thing, using a bottle jack. I wish I had one. I checked the heads of the bolts and they are not welded. I can get them to spin but the block spins as well. I tried to hold the block and spin the bolt to break it loose but I'm not able to hold onto the block and I do not have a tool big enough to get around it. I tried using a oil filter wrench but couldn't get a tight enough grip.

[First c10]

So I Looked at the picture closer and noticed that you have taken the nut off holding the bolt to the frame... Correct? Does the bed and body lift block lift up together? The PO may have bolted the block to the bed. So you may have to lift
The bed off to get to the nut holding the block to the bed bolt.... Not sure just throwing it out there. If you cut the bolt and block in half you should be able to separate.
Keep us posted..
Scott

[0311Chevy8152]

Well I've got through one and a half so far with the saw. On the half the blade has become to dull and the enemy revealed itself. It's fun watching beams turn to dust.

[cmabolt]

Yikes... Time to order some parts. Keep plugging away. The sooner it's apart, the sooner it can start going back together.

Chris

[DWilbur]

If you have a long bed I have a floor in good shape. just has some small holes that need to be welded. PM me and I will send you some pictures.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

If you have a long bed I have a floor in good shape. just has some small holes that need to be welded. PM me and I will send you some pictures.

Awesome will do.

[0311Chevy8152]

I dun did what I had to do and it's ugly. Almost looks like someone saw that the rail was rusted where the bolt hole was and moved it over to be away from the rust but didn't do anything about the rust. Took one blade per bolt but they are all disconnected. Now I hope to pull the bed back a few inches so I can take off the sides. I made nice straight cuts. The indentations are not from me.

[0311Chevy8152]

Just saw this truck that was built for SEMA. It was wrapped but I like the color. They called it chocolate brown metallic in a matte finish. Looks like it would go good with some ghost painting.

[Xeen]

Good deal, bang those war drums because the battle is just beginning.

[First c10]

Well getting that block out of the way was the plan. Now get the floor or possibly a new bed. I am sure you will be relieved to have that repaired or replaced.
When I see a problem it bugs me and I can sleep after I repair it.
Keep up the good work!!!

[Xeen]

From what I can tell the interior bed floor is in decent condition but I can't see very much detail from that picture.
If the metal in the bed floor isn't pitted beyond reasonable repair then the bed floor cross sills can be repaired and or replaced easily.
You can buy the bed floor cross sills just about anywhere that sells 67-72 pickup parts.
If you don't need to replace an entire cross sill you can cut out the cancer then you can buy a repop cross sill and cut it in sections to replace the damaged area.
If any of the reinforcing strips are rusted out you can buy those as well.
Here are some links so you can check them out.

Cross Sills
http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VW6dws9VhBc

Reinforcing Strips
http://www.classicparts.com/1960-72-.../#.VW6eC89VhBc