Door Seal Opinions Please

[cebra]

Did some searching around but seeing a lot of mixed responses. My doors are adjusted all the way out but I still have to slam them to close and my locks are extremely difficult to turn due to the seal pressure on the door. If you aren't ready for it stand back when you push the plunger as they are coming open hot. Also, on the passenger door if you press the door handle button the door is now locked in place and you have to get a couple people to push the door in to unlock the door with the key...more than slightly annoying. They are Precision glue on seals. I am going to bite the bullet and pay the $100 for Steele seals, should I get glue on or press on? Also, is there anyone else that sells non-Precision seals that work, $100 is pretty rich for door seals in my opinion. Thanks.

[cebra]

I am considering push on because my glue on ones constantly fall off due to slamming the doors and I have a boatload of 3M weatherstrip adhesive on them.

[LockDoc]

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Have you seen this thread?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=741910

Pretty much need to read it all the way through....

LockDoc

[cebra]

Done, thanks.

[MDPotter]

I installed the Honda seals on mine and it still takes force to close them, but not nearly as much as you've described. Doesn't yours have the air pressure relief valve in the driver jamb? I thought those were a 71-72 improvement. I had my doors adjusted really nice during bodywork which leads me to believe there just isn't much room for a weatherstrip between the door and cab. My 2016 has a seal on the door and on the cab, so it's a rubber-on-rubber seal, not rubber on steel and I think most modern vehicles are this way.

My doors are easier to close with a window down a little, but that's not a good solution for security and weather.

I'd like to see how these trucks were from the factory - how flush the door was to the cab and fender, how hard the door was to close, how well the weatherstrip sealed the door, etc.

[maverickmk]

I put the Civic seals on mine yesterday and they are absolutely perfect. I am in awe at how perfect they fit. Doors shut like a new truck now. Almost too nice for "The Turd."

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I installed the Honda seals on mine and it still takes force to close them, but not nearly as much as you've described. Doesn't yours have the air pressure relief valve in the driver jamb? I thought those were a 71-72 improvement. I had my doors adjusted really nice during bodywork which leads me to believe there just isn't much room for a weatherstrip between the door and cab. My 2016 has a seal on the door and on the cab, so it's a rubber-on-rubber seal, not rubber on steel and I think most modern vehicles are this way.

My doors are easier to close with a window down a little, but that's not a good solution for security and weather.

I'd like to see how these trucks were from the factory - how flush the door was to the cab and fender, how hard the door was to close, how well the weatherstrip sealed the door, etc.

You can also leave one of the fresh air vents open just a little to relieve the interior pressure and make the doors close easier, if that is the problem.

LockDoc

[randy500]

Read the link in my signature line on the door locking problem, easy fix is buy a new repro latch for $40 or so. Used latches are all junk.

Your weatherstrip is too thick or firm for the space it occupies. There isnt a solution for this other than thinner seals, the Honda seals are either thinner or pre-collapsed from years of use.
Buying new seals of a different brand isnt necessarily a cure.

You could selectively pull the seal off the jamb to see where its binding and see if you can make more room or cut the seal thinner in those areas.

[randy500]

I have new press on precision seals on all 4 doors of my crew cab and the doors shut nice. New repro latches or carefully tested used latches and each door locks without issue.

On my K10 that i restored i used precision glue on seals. Before paint i made sure i had a wide seal gap during door fitment, bent the pinch weld in a couple areas for clearance.
Drivers door shuts very easy, pass door shuts good but not as good as the drivers side.
On this truck I carefully ground the locking pawl in the used latches so they lock properly, i explain how to do this in my door locking problems thread.

[randy500]

I will also add this...
Your door latches are clearly worn out.
Worn door latches require the door to be slammed because all the internal parts of the latch are moving around, instead of rotating and latching. Internal latch movement makes it so you have to compress the seal even further than necessary to complete the latch cycle.

[cebra]

The door latches and the relief vent are new. There is just a ton of pressure on the door from the seals as you have to slam them and when you open them you need to be ready as they are coming open with serious velocity. I am out of adjustability at this point and ordered the Civic seals which were quite expensive but if it fixes the issue then it will be worth it before someone takes a door to the face not expecting them to pop open.

[maverickmk]

I got my Civic seals from someone local on craigslist that was parting out his Civic, paid $40.00 for both doors.

[tim_mc]

Love my Civic door seals. I'm thinking of adding a cab pressure vent.

[randy500]

Since your changing seals anyway, figure out where the seal is binding and carefully cut away the rubber to see if you can get the doors to shut better.
Then look at the door to cab clearance where you cut it away and determine if ANY new seal will fit the gap.
Figure out a way to make more clearance...sometimes there isnt a solution that doesnt involve cutting and re welding the part that is too tight.

[c60clf]

Civic seals worked probably better than new on my trucks. I had to do a lot of adjustment, one truck required making 1/4" shim out of flat stock,placed inside hinge at door post. If your door is still jumping after installing Civic rubbers you are likely binding on a pillar.
Hope this helps, PAT

[derotoreut]

Went with new push on door seals from Brothers for my '71 SWB. Didn't work out. Went with Civic seals.

[Joesjunk]

I have had hard door closing problems in the past with precision brand. I’m told OER seals are a perfect match to the originals and don’t cause door closing problems. I haven’t tried them, just passing some info along.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I bought my press on seals from Wes at Classic Heartbeat I think they were Precision. They were a little tight at first but loosened up pretty quickly. I don’t think they were that expensive either but I don’t remember what I paid now.

[cebra]

Let us know how the OER ones work out. I ordered the Civic ones and from everything I have read I expect them to fit pretty well but will update if not. I felt like I gave my Precision ones plenty of time to break in especially considering I live in a warm place and open/close my doors multiple times per day. I felt they never changed as far as the pressure they were putting on my doors. If I can, I will get a video of how fast my door pops open due to the pressure on them (adjusted all the way out), I suspect it is enough force to break a nose.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

I bought my press on seals from Wes at Classic Heartbeat I think they were Precision. They were a little tight at first but loosened up pretty quickly. I don’t think they were that expensive either but I don’t remember what I paid now.

I got my press fit Precicision seals from Wes as well. They fit my 1972 perfectly and I have had no issues with them for the 4 years they've been on my truck. I think I paid around 70 bucks for the pair.

Gary

[cebra]

Related to the Civic door seal, does anyone know what trimming is necessary to use the stock stainless threshold trim (door sill plate, unsure of proper name)?

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by cebra

Related to the Civic door seal, does anyone know what trimming is necessary to use the stock stainless threshold trim (door sill plate, unsure of proper name)?

There was no trimming at all. They fit the entire door frame - all the way around - perfectly.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by maverickmk

There was no trimming at all. They fit the entire door frame - all the way around - perfectly.

They fit under the stainless threshold as well (if equipped) without trimming?

[Andy4639]

I used GMC Paul's on my 68 and was very pleased with them. My doors shut great and both lock like they are suppose to. Getting the doors adjusted and installing new latches is the key to a good shutting door!

[slikside]

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