EagleChief's 1971 Build Thread

[notsolo]

Fuel line is usually tucked in behind the compressor, or in front of passenger head. Hard area to get a pre bent in. You might be able to make some minor bends, get it close and work on either end.

[Syclone3Mt]

Maybe your intake gasket is bad causing some coolant issues? LS Swaps are always a fun option

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Fuel line is usually tucked in behind the compressor, or in front of passenger head. Hard area to get a pre bent in. You might be able to make some minor bends, get it close and work on either end.

Yea, it is going to be interesting trying to figure out where to run my fuel hose. I have the general idea - and I'm temporarily going to use rubber fuel hose, until I figure out if I have to rebuild the motor. If I can determine that the motor is ok for now, then I'll switch over to a mechanical fuel pump and use the hard fuel line from there. But, I don't want to go through that trouble if I'm going to have to get the motor redone.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Syclone3Mt

Maybe your intake gasket is bad causing some coolant issues? LS Swaps are always a fun option

Didn't think of the intake gasket. My mind automatically has gone to head gaskets, but hopefully it's easier than that.

[clay68c10]

It would be worth putting a pressure tester on it and see what happens. Try it with the engine warm and cold. Cold engine shouldn't lose much pressure at all. Warm will lose some pressure as it cools. Coolant leaks can be hard to spot sometimes.

[EagleChief]

I decided to take the chance and drive the truck into work today!!

But first... I got the fuel hose done. Finally got rid of the secondary fuel pump in the engine bay and the multiple spliced pieces of fuel line. I ran one line from the frame up behind the components and over the top of the engine. Added a metal fuel filter at that point, then on to the carburetor. It literally had 6 different hoses that were all spliced/joined together to make the same run. Now, I have 2!!

The drive in to work is 24.7 miles (one way). 90% of that is highway @ 65mph. The truck ran great! I was a little hesitant at first to really get it up to speed, so on the city streets and the county section road, I didn't get over 50mph. But once I got on the highway and the truck was warmed up, I decided to try it out at 65mph and it was just fine. I've only had it up to that speed for just a few seconds, so a longer duration had me a little nervous - especially with the disappearing coolant issue.

The truck ran great the whole trip. I kept an eye on the temperature and the oil pressure, and everything held steady! My temp never rose above 190F. I just went out and check the radiator to look at the coolant level... IT'S STILL FULL!!!!!!!!!!!! Now, that being said, I am parked on a slight downhill slope in our parking lot. BUT, previous drives at shorter distances have shown considerable loss of coolant in the radiator. Right now, it's at the same level as when I left this morning. I'm stoked right now!! But, at lunch I'll get it out and drive it again and see what happens. Then on the drive home I'll have to keep an eye on things. I'll report back with findings later.

[EagleChief]

Haven't done too much to the truck, except for drive it! I keep adding and topping off the radiator, as I'm still loosing coolant in the motor. But, my oil pressure and temperature stay constant all the time.

I did replace the headlights this past weekend, and added the LMC headlight harness. I have yet to drive it with the harness installed. I added the lights this past Thursday night, but didn't have them aimed correctly. Driving home from a cruise night, I couldn't see sh*t and was thinking I had messed up by getting the lights I bought. But, when I pulled in to my neighborhood, I realized my lights were shining on the neighbors' roofs! No wonder I couldn't see! haha So, I adjusted them down. Still going to have to take it out and line them up better.

[EagleChief]

Next is to order the drop kit - Still trying to decide on brand and budget. I want to do the drop kit correctly, which from reading is by using drop spindles. But, I'm also on budget and don't have a whole lot to put into it right now. Can anybody guide me on what all I need to do? Do I need shock relocation kits? Do I need panhard bars or track bars? I've tried reading all of the threads, but it gets so confusing, I have no idea anymore.

I've attached a little spreadsheet that I've made up of different kits and their options.

[EagleChief]

So, after some considerations and some talks with my finance manager (wife ), I didn't order the drop kit. It is still a priority on the list, but there are some other issues that are probably going to have to be taken care of first. Mainly, the motor issue. So, we'll save the budget for that big chunk of cost. I'm going to try and get some new tires (hopefully this week) mounted on the new wheels, which, it appears I forgot to mention.

I finally got my wheel replacements! They are an aftermarket set of Corvette Rally's. I bought them used, so I have no idea what brand they are - if that even matters. Anyway, I had them sandblasted and painted here at my work. They were different colors, and some of the paint was starting to peel. So, a new finish was needed. They are 15x7 for the front, and 15x8 for the rear. Here's a couple of pictures of the "in process" wheel finish. I just realized I don't have a picture of the finished product. I'll have to get one.

[EagleChief]

Ordered the window channel replacement parts - rubber, felt, etc. - for both doors. My wing window seals look pretty good, so I just went with the main window stuff. Bought it from ECE. Hopefully it's good stuff. I've heard bad things about LMC, so was looking at ECE, Brothers, and Classic Heartbeat.

Eventually went with ECE only due to the fact that I was buying LED taillight boards from them as well, so I only paid 1 shipping charge. Heard good stuff about Wes @Classic Heartbeat, but convenience took over for me. Maybe the new channel rubber/felts will cut down on some of the wind noise I'm getting. Plus, it will keep the windows from rattling while going down the road. My current stuff is toast - half gone, the other half rotting out.

[EagleChief]

Anyone know what these wires are supposed to go to? I have the wiring diagram, but I get lost trying to figure out the harness connection points. So, I'm not sure what I have here.

[EagleChief]

Received my shipment from ECE last week. Had a spare 2 minutes when I got home from work, so I swapped my taillights with the ECE LED taillights. Easy, plug and play board. Works great! Fills the whole lense and is very bright. I'm perfectly happy with them. Now to slowly start Channing out the rest of the lights. ��

[cornerstone]

Pretty cool you can blast at work! In regard to lowering the truck, there is always the free way. I ran around on heated springs for a few years and had zero problems. I used a torch, and carefully watched the amount of drop as the springs got hot. I alternated the heat on both sides of each spring to try and reduce total collapse of one side on the spring. I did the rear first, checking to make sure it was level before I went to the front. Obviously this isn’t the best way, but it rode the same, the alignment didn’t change, and I suddenly liked the way the truck looked. And it was free. I only lowered my truck 3 in the front and 4 in the back. I did mention free, right? No “finance manager” involved

[Barnfind46]

I was reading your thread. How much coolant are you loosing?Does your truck have a catch can on the radiator? These older systems will loose a little coolant when you shut the engine off due to expansion. Also,have you tested the cooling system for pressure? you can buy or borrow a system pressure tester to see if it maintains pressure over a period of time. While the truck is cold before you start it you install the proper adapter to your radiator. It replaces your cap and has a place to hook a hose. You hook the hose and pump it up while watching the gauge. You stop pumping at 8 or 10 psi. Leave it alone and watch to see if you loose pressure. If the gauge stays where its at for 5 or 10 min. you are good. If you loose pressure then you may have an intake seep,radiator hose leak,head gasket problem or radiator issue. The radiator will have a damp spot even if it is very small. Intake is a little harder to tell. Head gasket should be apparent with a lot of coolant loss,steam in the exhaust and overheating. I hope this helps. I would rather get to the fun stuff but working out the mechanical issues makes more since and the sooner the truck is driving well without brake down the better the wife will like it.Good luck!

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by Barnfind46

I was reading your thread. How much coolant are you loosing?Does your truck have a catch can on the radiator? These older systems will loose a little coolant when you shut the engine off due to expansion. Also,have you tested the cooling system for pressure? you can buy or borrow a system pressure tester to see if it maintains pressure over a period of time. While the truck is cold before you start it you install the proper adapter to your radiator. It replaces your cap and has a place to hook a hose. You hook the hose and pump it up while watching the gauge. You stop pumping at 8 or 10 psi. Leave it alone and watch to see if you loose pressure. If the gauge stays where its at for 5 or 10 min. you are good. If you loose pressure then you may have an intake seep,radiator hose leak,head gasket problem or radiator issue. The radiator will have a damp spot even if it is very small. Intake is a little harder to tell. Head gasket should be apparent with a lot of coolant loss,steam in the exhaust and overheating. I hope this helps. I would rather get to the fun stuff but working out the mechanical issues makes more since and the sooner the truck is driving well without brake down the better the wife will like it.Good luck!

I agree with Barnfind...My 68 would always drip a bit out of the overflow after a drive. I added a summit catch can and no more drips and the coolant stays full!
If your upper radiator hose stays firm overnight I suspect a head gasket issue.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Pretty cool you can blast at work! In regard to lowering the truck, there is always the free way. I ran around on heated springs for a few years and had zero problems. I used a torch, and carefully watched the amount of drop as the springs got hot. I alternated the heat on both sides of each spring to try and reduce total collapse of one side on the spring. I did the rear first, checking to make sure it was level before I went to the front. Obviously this isn’t the best way, but it rode the same, the alignment didn’t change, and I suddenly liked the way the truck looked. And it was free. I only lowered my truck 3 in the front and 4 in the back. I did mention free, right? No “finance manager” involved

I've thought about that. Could do it here at my work. But, I'm not really sure if I want to go that route. I know it's been done a bunch, by a lot of people. I'm not sure if I can do that, though.

I'm thinking I may just go with drop spindles up front and then some springs in the back. Maybe try that to see what it looks like and hold me over until I can start rounding up everything to get the final drop.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Barnfind46

I was reading your thread. How much coolant are you loosing?Does your truck have a catch can on the radiator? These older systems will loose a little coolant when you shut the engine off due to expansion. Also,have you tested the cooling system for pressure? you can buy or borrow a system pressure tester to see if it maintains pressure over a period of time. While the truck is cold before you start it you install the proper adapter to your radiator. It replaces your cap and has a place to hook a hose. You hook the hose and pump it up while watching the gauge. You stop pumping at 8 or 10 psi. Leave it alone and watch to see if you loose pressure. If the gauge stays where its at for 5 or 10 min. you are good. If you loose pressure then you may have an intake seep,radiator hose leak,head gasket problem or radiator issue. The radiator will have a damp spot even if it is very small. Intake is a little harder to tell. Head gasket should be apparent with a lot of coolant loss,steam in the exhaust and overheating. I hope this helps. I would rather get to the fun stuff but working out the mechanical issues makes more since and the sooner the truck is driving well without brake down the better the wife will like it.Good luck!

It depends on the day. One day I'll drive it to work and will have lost quite a bit, the next time I drive it, not so much. I did add a temporary overflow reservoir. I've had days where it's 1/3 full of coolant, and days where there isn't much in it. Even with adding that back into the radiator, after it cools down, I'll still have to add some water to it - and that varies each time.

I was seeing white smoke/vapor out of the exhaust during most of the spring. Now that it's warmed up (consistent 90's), I don't see it as much. But, that's probably more because of the humidity and outside temps. I'm not overheating. My temps stay between 180-190, even with the hotter outside temps. I drive it work, 50 mile round trip, at 65-70 mph without any issues.

I have not done a pressure test on it. I need to. I've been wanting to do a compression test as well. Thank you for your reply!

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

I agree with Barnfind...My 68 would always drip a bit out of the overflow after a drive. I added a summit catch can and no more drips and the coolant stays full!
If your upper radiator hose stays firm overnight I suspect a head gasket issue.

I do have an overflow reservoir attached for now. It catches quite a bit on some days, then others not so much - just depends on the day.

I haven't checked the upper hose. I'll try that after my next drive. So, drive it, get it up to temp. Then, check the hose after it cools down, or the next morning?

How does that tell tale sign work, exactly? Is it because the leak is not allowing the coolant to leave the hose due to backing up, or suction?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Anyone know what these wires are supposed to go to? I have the wiring diagram, but I get lost trying to figure out the harness connection points. So, I'm not sure what I have here.

Fat purple wire is for the starter. Don't know about the other two.

[EagleChief]

Finally got a chance to take my truck up and get the new wheels and tires on!!! Went with Cooper Cobra's - 255/60 up front, 275/60 in back. I got them at Discount Tire for a heck of a deal - at least to me. My neighbor's son works there, so I got the "family discount".

Here's a few pics of the install and the after shot. I did get the front center caps on today - I had to finagle the dust covers a bit to get them on.

[EagleChief]

Well, time for the next part replacement, or upgrade - the steering gear box. Mine is leaking pretty bad, but still works well. I can fill the power steering fluid, and within the day, it has leaked out to a certain level, and seems to stay at that level.

When I look at, say Advanced Auto, there are a couple of options that show up. I just need to make sure I'm getting the correct replacement part. Here are a few pictures of what I'm looking at.

[clay68c10]

She’s a leaker for sure.
Get the box for a 70s square body, they are less turns from lock to lock. I think around a ‘76 will work. Someone will chime in with the right year, it’s been a while since I’ve done this.

[clay68c10]

Here ya go, 76 should do it for ya

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=769904

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Here ya go, 76 should do it for ya

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=769904

Awesome! Thank you. I did see another thread where it was mentioned using the later 70's version. I guess '76-'78, it probably doesn't matter much, huh?

[EagleChief]

Been a while since I've updated here, obviously. I haven't done too much to the truck as of late. I have bought a few parts, though.

I did relocate my overflow tank to sit on the driver side of the radiator. Bought a new radiator cap. Now, I finally seem to have the overflow issue addressed. Now, it seems to recycle the fluid that flows into the overflow reservoir. Finally.

I'm starting to redo the front brakes. Last couple of times I drove it, it sounded like the front passenger side was grinding. So, I jacked it up and got the wheels pulled off. Only had time to pull the driver side caliper off. The pads were toast. I got the passenger side bolts loosened up, but didn't have time to pull it. I'm hoping I can find some time in the next few nights to pull the rotors. Going to bring them into work and have them turned in our machine shop.

After that, I'll redo the back brake pads, but I've never messed with drum brakes before. So, that's going to be a learning curve, and plenty of YouTube watching to figure that out.

I did go ahead and purchase a steering box to replace my leaking one. Picked it up from RockAuto - a LARES power steering box for a '76 model. I have 6 months to get my core charge returned, so I'm hoping I can get it replaced before then.