My '84 'old yella' build

[ronnieb]

Didn't want to highjack anyones thread so I started this one.

I'm an old school guy and have done several early swaps from the '50's and 60's. Pretty easy stuff, this is my first attempt at doing late model FI stuff, wrench turning is the easy part, but I am scratching my head alot on some of the electrial and fuel system. Hope you guys can help me out?

My '84 had an 305/700r4 that wouldn't pass a gas station. I wanted to do a swap/upgrade and after several days spent here reading threads I settled on a 5.3/4l60e.

Glock and Fred was an insperation behond words and what I'm doing is modeled after Fred.

I aquired a '04 5.3/4l60e from a Tahoe complete with everything with around 90k miles.

'old yella' is in pieces now and following in Freds footsteps I have changed the tanks(2), new sending units, intank pumps, selector valve and when I started to plum everything is when I realized I had a problem. Fred was a returnless system from the engine. Mine is not so the corvette filter/regulator won't work, I am also keeping the emisions in tact, so I have the vent from the tanks that will go to the EVAC valve on the intake.

Question is, since mine is a return system from the manifold do I need a regulator or is that part of the manifold.

Second question, I have the fuel lines from the Tahoe that come off the manifold and across the top of the trans. I would like to use these if I can but don't have a clue as to type of fittings to convert or can I just cut the lines and slip the rubber FI hose on them?

Third question, did anyone ever see the template that Glock was doing for the passenger side engine stand, as I want to do the samething and keep the a/c compressor in the OEM location?

I guess that's all for now. As this will keep me busy for awhile.

[glock35ipsc]

Damn, this dude busted me bigtime!! Found me clear over on the other side of the hobby spectrum....... on a golf forum!

To answer a few of your questions Ron...

Question is, since mine is a return system from the manifold do I need a regulator or is that part of the manifold.

The regulator in in the fuel rails on this system. So there should be 2 lines coming off the fuel rails; one is a feed and the other (the smaller one) the return.

Second question, I have the fuel lines from the Tahoe that come off the manifold and across the top of the trans. I would like to use these if I can but don't have a clue as to type of fittings to convert or can I just cut the lines and slip the rubber FI hose on them?

You can reuse them. You can cut them where needed and use AN type fittings to reconnect. With fuel pressure of close to 60 psi, you won't be able to just slip on any fuel line and clamp it. Somewhere ( ) in my thread is a parts list that should point you in the right direction to the fuel line fittings.

Third question, did anyone ever see the template that Glock was doing for the passenger side engine stand, as I want to do the samething and keep the a/c compressor in the OEM location?

Let me take a look in the shop, I should still have a template made for that extension piece.

[ronnieb]

Thanks Bob, that's why I hunted you down. and good luck with the practice area. Wish I had enough room for something like that.

[ronnieb]

Everyone is always harping about not posting pictures, so I figured before that happens I better post these.









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[ronnieb]

Today a slow day, ordered the rest of the fittings for the fuel system and the adapter for the temp sensor. Drilled and tapped the boss for the oil pressure sensor and installed that.

Started tracing wires for the fuel sending units and pumps and found I can use the wires already there and just splice in the new pumps, I will add a relay under the dash for the pumps.

In trying to get this thing done I forgot to trace the wires on the new sending units before I installed the tanks, I really don't want to drop a tank to figure out the colors and what they go to. The sending units are for an '87 has 3 wires, 1 ground, 2 in a weather pack, hope somebody can help me out.

I also decided to pull the instrument cluster and trace the circuits for that, which I did but only after I had to pull the fuse box, split the harness from the box to the headlight switch, I had 3 burnt wires, not a good thing.

I was also under the hood seperating what wires I need and don't and scratched my head when I got to the plug the was going a sensor that was located just above the oil filter on the old 305, 1 wire also went to the choke, do I need this.

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[ronnieb]

Well i removed all the burnt wires now I'm waiting on parts to do the repair. Of all the auto electrical stuff I have I didn't have any of the blade connectors . They'll be here Monday, then I'll have a bunch, they come in a box if 25.

Finished doing the repin on the instrument cluster connector. I know that when I get the engine harness back it will have a wire for the speedo but what about the service engine soon? Also after those are hooked in I'll have 3 wires left over, 2 black, 1 pink w/bl stripe, does thatsound right?

Hers a pic of the crispy wires.



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[ronnieb]

YEAH!!! got a ton of stuff done over the last couple of days. Engine and trans in. Strange though the trans crossmember bolted to same place on the pass side but an inch and half back on the driver side. Everything is in the right place, wasn't expecting that, but it works.

Fuel system is all done now I'm just waiting on the computer and harness, but that will be next month, budget.

Here is some pics of what I've done.

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This one has me puzzeled, how much can I take out of the frame to clear the exhaust header?

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[glock35ipsc]

No need to cut the frame there. Cut the pipe off the flange, then turn it about 180 degrees. It will kick the outlet more towards the center and let you run it down with out any interference. Of course, as with everything else, test fit everything before you weld it back together.

EDIT - Looked back through some notes. I flipped the piece of pipe I cut off, not turn it. Either way, cut it off, bolt up the flange, then crawl underneath and twist and turn it until it clears. Then mark it, and weld.




Looking good!

[ronnieb]

Thanks Bob, I really didn't want to take a big chunk out of the frame in that particular location. I was going back through my bookmarks for Fred, I must have missed this one on the exhaust. Working late the next few days so it won't get done till the weekend, but that's ok, I'm tired.

[ronnieb]

HELP!!!!!

Well I finally got the harness and computer installed. I'm missing half the harness from the throttle control box to the throttle(tbw). Found the connector on the web and ordered it, be here on Tues I hope. I was able start the motor, after several attempts finally determined that the injectors were stuck, small hammer and a long screwdriver and a few love taps, it started. Won't come up to an idle and only runs for about 10secs. I'm hoping that when I get the throttle hooked up it will straighten out.

Now my real problem. I changed out the instrument cluster, used a 90 burb, I made a diagram of the old connector, pin and wire colors, and traced the circuits on the old cluster. Went to the new cluster and traced the circuits and repinned the plug, all good right, wrong. I hosed it, first thing after I applied power I noticed that the right turn light was on, all the time, when I moved the turn signal to the right the brake warning light comes on, move it left and the seatbelt light comes on, no fuel gauge, and no speedometer. Alt and oil pressure worked. Fixed the turn signals, now the brake warning light stays on and still no fuel gauge and speedo.

I guess my tracing skills are not what they used to be or maybe it's the trifocals now, but at any rate, I'm stuck. Does anyone have a pin out for that plug or a schematic for a 90 burb cluster???

Any suggestions would help.

[ronnieb]

Additional question, to what pin does the wire from the ECM to OBD go to?