How to create older restoration quickly

[lupo]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Here’s some info from a restoration shop very close to me on chemical stripping and e coating: https://www.musclecarrestorations.com/ecoat.html

That's quite a process. I imagine that would be very effective. I think it could be a little above my budget. If you don't have dip tanks acid prep the car with rust remover/metal prep solution then prime it with 2 coats of Aluminum pigmented permanent rust sealer./primer Make sure that it is the non-leafing. This formulation dries toothy for body filler and surfacing primer to stick to it. The leafing formulation is a finish paint.Here's a picture of a Mustang thats preped in this fashion from the Mastercoat website gallery.

[lupo]

Have you ever wondered why we put between 7 and 12 coats of paint on the outside of the car but only one or 2 coats underneath? Another question why would you use a coating system that failed the 1st time. The one that is available today in most cases is not is good as" we had in the past.. Think about it.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by lupo

Have you ever wondered why we put between 7 and 12 coats of paint on the outside of the car but only one or 2 coats underneath? Another question why would you use a coating system that failed the 1st time. The one that is available today in most cases is not is good as" we had in the past.. Think about it.

Yes I have.
You can pay attention to what you can see.
Much less of attention is paid to what you can not see.










.

[lousyflyer]

I had a car buddy and his brother worked in a refinery (PPG I think) in Lake Charles, La and he was painter. Part of his job included trucks used only in the refinery, and the environmment was extremely corrosive. They hit everything with Ospho after removing loose scale, then primed and painted with enamels. He said it worked quite well. It was my first exposure to phosphate treatments. I've only used phosphates on really rough metal, nothing above the floorboards.

Rustoleum paint has an interesting story. The use of fish oil in primers resulted from areas on fishing boats that did not rust because the fish were cut and processed by hand back then and these areas always had fish guts on them. The Rusty Metal Primer does work.

[richards72chevy]

Originally Posted by lupo

My purpose is to try to educate younger people because a lot of things I read on the Internet is misinformation. When I started to do bodywork did not use body filler. It was a pick hammer and a file. We welded patch panels in with clothes hangers and acetylene torches..

Alkyd paint is the most inexpensive coating that industrial coatings company sell ,generally as a maintenance paint. you'll find mostly hardware stores for Joe the homeowner not bad stuff it doesn't last too long. In 1978 I accidentally used a zinc rich Vinyl primer on an old LaSalle that was inside out. That car is for sale today and the owner thinks that is the original paint. I have been using industrial primers ever since.

The best way to treat seams is give them a good soaking with a rust remover metal prep solution that contains zinc or a rust conversion coating. Soak it for a couple of days after it dries up then seal it up

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought most industrial coatings were meant for stuff that doesn't flex as much as thinner metal.I know at my job we were coating stuff in an epoxy paint.The reps with epoxy paint said it was all about mill thickness.We recently changed paint companies and now are using an enamal paint and primer.We could load a scale up the next day with the epoxy paint drag chains across it and it would just scuff the paint .The enamel paint can sit on there for a week and will peel off where we drag chains across it.

[lupo]

Excellent point. A year after I painted this car I get bit in the trunk.

[lupo]

This is where a good quality rust remover is used to soak the seams and then coat: with the quality sealer. As for flexibility industrial coatings to have flexibility everything moves in one way or another

[special-K]

I have been getting powder coat done by an industrial coatings specialty company for a long time. I mostly had heavier metal powder coated, but they use different products for different uses. For instance, epoxy. I really wanted that because epoxy is better, right? Turns out that depends. They only use epoxy for interior pieces and use poly-based for exterior. For UV resistance but also temp variation. The epoxy doesn't react to temps the way metals do. It made sense to me because I used to paint the shocks on my lifted 4wds with epoxy paint and without fail that would crack and pop off in shards. That's with sandblasting first.

[lupo]

Originally Posted by special-K

I have been getting powder coat done by an industrial coatings specialty company for a long time. I mostly had heavier metal powder coated, but they use different products for different uses. For instance, epoxy. I really wanted that because epoxy is better, right? Turns out that depends. They only use epoxy for interior pieces and use poly-based for exterior. For UV resistance but also temp variation. The epoxy doesn't react to temps the way metals do. It made sense to me because I used to paint the shocks on my lifted 4wds with epoxy paint and without fail that would crack and pop off in shards. That's with sandblasting first.

Hello special K there are so many different formulations for epoxy it is amazing. Today the industry goes more for polyurethane type coatings. Epoxies generally are good for immersion service like underwater. I generally put urethane primer down 1st then a epoxy surfacing primer over that and that worked well. Most paint jobs the exterior will last for years. What I wanted to address was inside, underneath, backside of the panels.