So how the heck do you get a wrench on the front bleed screws?

[jdarren]

I'd like to change the brake fluid in my '69 C-10...if only I could get a @#$% wrench on the front bleed screws! Never mind an open-end wrench, a socket, or a bleed screw offset wrench. There's simply not enough room between the screw and the wheel structure (or whatever you call it!) to get a wrench on it.

So how do I turn that screw?

[67-72freak]

Taking the tire/wheel off helps gain access to the screw, at least that worked out for me, hope this helps.

[jdarren]

Thanks for your reply, freak!

I can access the screw, which is definitely easier with the wheel off, but I can't get a wrench to seat on it.

[67-72freak]

I had to bend my open wrench a lil, didnt mind since it was a cheap harbor freight one, I guess GM had a special wrech for the job back in the days.

[Mister-B]

If yours is anything like mine was, it'll be cemented on. I was able to figure out how to get grip on it, but guess what? The damn thing broke off because it was cemented on. You may have an easier time and in all honestly ultimately need new wheel cylinders anyway, which then come with new bleeders that aren't rusted on.

[jdarren]

Thanks for the note, Mister-B! How did you get a grip on the thing?

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by jdarren

Thanks for the note, Mister-B! How did you get a grip on the thing?

Well, I first tried a flare wrench, but it wouldn't budge, so I used a socket on it, which obviously isn't the proper tool, but it wouldn't budge (and ended up breaking in half), and I'm convinced never would have come loose. The wheel cylinders and bleeders were just way too old and rusted.

Go to NAPA, and behind the counter, they have individual high end flare nut wrenches. I can't remember what size it takes, but the entire wrench is only like maybe 6" long, and will run you about $20. Skip the cheap Harbor Freight flare wrenches that will just flex and break and round off the fittings. At least then you'll have the proper wrench for bleeding after you replace the wheel cylinders.

[motorcritter]

After assessing the situation (nasty old corroded and decrepit bleed screws), I soak them in penetrant- shot them several times and scrub off rust and debris, as possible. Inserting a snug-fitting drill rod or hex key in the hole helps stabilize the whole mess. I usually use a six-point box end wrench to loosen them. If they break off anyway, it was probably time for new wheel cylinders or calipers. A pencil torch can help, but can do more damage than help.
I just pulled the drums off a '35 Plymouth- you don't even want to know what vile conditions I found there! Cool part was that the drums were OK, everything else- junk!
Working on the Chevys is so simple, in comparison.

[brad_man_72]

A little heat goes a long ways in freeing up stuck bolts. The great thing about these trucks is that a new wheel cylinder is about $5 more than a new bleeder screw.