Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Chevyland

Nice work, hopefully the holes stop showing up soon !
What is your plan for paint ?
Single stage ?
Are you going all the way with paint, or are you going to send it out ?

Nice work, hopefully the holes stop showing up soon !
Thanks Eric and I hope also.

What is your plan for paint ?
I have already bought the paint at the local Napa Auto paint store here in Meridian Idaho. That is where I had the dark blue matched from the radio delete plate you sent, the smaller quart can is the dark blue. The larger can is the medium blue, and thanks again for helping out!

Single stage ?
Yes, it is a single stage "Utech" by AkzoNobel. I have used this paint on a few trucks and really like how it sprays and the cost is not so bad. The DTM primer is black.

Are you going all the way with paint, or are you going to send it out ?
Yes I will do all the paintwork here in the garage

[landarts]

Took two days of rest and am now back at it. Decided to attack the last of the rust repair and metal work hopefully on the cab. I have one small spot on the door trim lip to address and a small area of the Captain's side kicker panel at the bottom.

Had a few challenges with the odd shapes and angles on this one. Then I had my welding wire issues on my new machine jamming up where it feeds to the gun on the inside. So what should have been an hour's worth of work to tackle these few turned into three to four hours. I guess it is part of the kicking and screaming these old trucks do when you are trying to bring them around.

Hopefully, after a few adjustments, I can get through the last of the metal work on the cab and finish up the last round of sanding filler on the back and corners of the cab. If it fights back today I have a new welding hose inner sleeve made for the .023 wire I am using. The new machine inner sleeve was for .030 and .035 wire.

Pic 1 -Hole in the cab to be repaired
Pic 2 -Repaired and ground down
Pic 3 -Holding the cut piece with tape, it would not set right with the magnet
Pic 4 -Repaired and ground down
Pic 5 -The mess after a few hours of work

[landarts]

Got the mess cleaned up this morning and went after the lower kick panel and door rubber trim rust. The kick panel template and the piece that is cut out and ready to go is about a half inch up higher into good metal, so that should last a minute. The lower door trim area had some waves in it and looked to be about three small holes to cut out and patch.

Well after working the waves out I found that almost the whole piece would need to be fabricated and metal worked. Busted out the metal brake and some tools and whipped one out.

Everything is ready to go so hopefully later today I can get to cutting, welding, and grinding again.

[landarts]

Was able to get out at lunch break and sand down some of the existing filler on the cab. Found a few more spots that needed filler. Also found a few low spots so round three on filler adding. Hope to get it sanded out this evening and get back on the metal repair.

Pic 1 -Received a delivery today from one of Bestview's sources, freshly printed NL2 gas tank switch stickers
Pic 2 -Filler top of the cab
Pic 3 -Filler where the metal repair was done
Pic 4 -Extra filler on the back of the cab
Pic 5 -1972 K10 that I purchased a few days ago and is being shipped to Idaho now. Original running driving K10 with 4-speed transmission, tow hooks and grill guard, 551 paint code, manual throttle, and a bunch of other nice items on the SPID.

[landarts]

Saturday morning I decided to get the last of the glaze coat on the filler on the back of the cab. Put a few more skim coats of filler in the interior and the two small screw holes I welded up on the roof next to the cab lights. Moved onto the lower Captain's side door rubber trim that I formed a few days ago. Got it all fitted and welded in without any issues. Then gave the Drinker's side upper rocker the last skim coat of the body 3M body glaze.

Then I worked on getting the inner kick panel lower section cut out prepped and welded in. While I was welding the lower section it started a small smoldering fire in the firewall kick panel area where the vented air comes out. Grabbed a bucket of water and dumped down the top of the cowl on the Captain's side and that put it out and also made a nice mess everywhere. So I decided to finish up the welding while it was still wet on the inside, then pushed the truck into the driveway to give it a good bath with the power washer. Mopped up all the water on the floor and called it a day.

[landarts]

Sunday was getting after the Captian's side upper rocker area, addressing the welds, and all of the area to be prepped for filler. I don't think I have ever seen a rocker with such deep spot welds toward the front and just rough metalwork. Anyway, I addressed the issues with a little hammer work and some grinding. Then after it was all cleaned up I applied a coat of filler, sanded then a few swipes of glaze.

Moved up to the upper windshield frame where I filled the large hole from a previous spotlight installation. Got that all sanded down and looking good for primer. Wrapped up by working the inner upper door trim frame with some filler after grinding down all the welding to fix the holes also from spotlight install. Finished up with a coat of body glaze where I had a few deep scratches and a few pin holes.

[Chevyland]

Coming along - Great work!

Do you and Kenny plan on leaving the
'Double' Bully steps on it ?

I've got those on my lifted truck,
They are very functional and look good on these trucks
In my opinion

[best view]

Tease alert lol , jim is going to put one on each side instead of the two on one side

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Chevyland

Coming along - Great work!

Do you and Kenny plan on leaving the
'Double' Bully steps on it ?

I've got those on my lifted truck,
They are very functional and look good on these trucks
In my opinion

Thanks Eric! We are going to keep them, just move one over to the other side.

[landarts]

Another side project I had to wrap up over the weekend was to modify the gantry I built last February for removing cabs and beds on these trucks. I built it out of scrap 2" thick heavy wall tubing. It was built in sections with thick wall 1 3/4 tubing sleeves so I could break it down and store it away when not in use. The only thing I had to purchase was the hand winches that were rated at 800 lbs. each, and a couple of pulleys for the metal cable. So I had about $100 into the project.

Well, the first time I used it was to pull the bed off of this truck and it worked, but not flawless. One of the winches kept jamming at the cog wheel and I had to smack it a few times with a hammer to get it to work while taking off the bed. Then when I tried to remove the cab the other side started doing the same thing. I believe the winches were not of good quality so I did some research to find better-made hand winches for the gantry. After doing all the research the winches were going to cost more than an electric winch rated at 3500 lbs., so I decided to modify the design and make it work with a removable electric winch.

I had already had some items for the winch, a few extra pulleys, and a female receiver hitch which will make it removable. It took me about an hour and a half to put it all together, weld it up, and test it. We now have a portable, breakdown gantry that can roll around and handle the task with ease. I also use this as a paint tree to hang parts from when painting.

Pic 1 -Original manual gantry
Pic 2 -Electric 3500 lbs. winch added
Pic 3 -Side view of receiver hitch to make it removable
Pic 4 -A battery tray that lifts off when not in use, had to do this so I do not have to pick up the battery every time I want to move the gantry.
Pic 5 -Gantry all hooked up and working