67 long box

[Metaldoc]

I found the perfect stowage box for the bed of the truck. 40"x 22"x 15" and with patina and blue and lockable. Best part was that it was free. Yesterday I scored an old stove for 30 bucks to ceramic bake paint on my exhaust manifolds. Way cheaper than 200 bucks to get them done.

[Metaldoc]

The new used oven seems to work great. First cycle just about done and two higher temp bakes.

[Xeen]

Score!
I like the creative thinking on both the oven and the utility box.

[Metaldoc]

Manifolds turned out great , now to see how the hold up after I get it running. I used VHT header paint, cast iron.

[Getter-Done]

Looking Great.
Something to think about is keeping the oil off those Hot manifolds while setting the valves.
If you make a shield and use the two bottom valve cover bolt holes it helps.

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looking Great.
Something to think about is keeping the oil off those Hot manifolds while setting the valves.
If you make a shield and use the two bottom valve cover bolt holes it helps.

Thanks I've already set all the valves I just need to fill with oil and prime the engine. I don't set the valves while running.

[Metaldoc]

Put all the gaskets in, all sealed up. Had to make a new fuel line to the carb and it looks good.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Put all the gaskets in, all sealed up. Had to make a new fuel line to the carb and it looks good.

Tell us about the specs, did you give it a horsepower boost?

[Metaldoc]

Previous owner did some work but not good on the top end, so new stock heads with all new springs, s/s valves, seats, decked and ready to install. New cam with 442 lift on exhaust/ 420 lift on intake with 112deg split. 204/214 duration not a monster but enough. It has 10.5/1 flat tops, new double roller chain, high pressure pump, flat tappet lifters, all new rockers with new hardware. 1968 edelbrock sp2p spread bore with a rebuilt 580 cfm quadrajet from a 68vette. If I had to guess 300 to 325 Hp. I might get a set 1.6 ratio rockers if I want a little more.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Previous owner did some work but not good on the top end, so new stock heads with all new springs, s/s valves, seats, decked and ready to install. New cam with 442 lift on exhaust/ 420 lift on intake with 112deg split. 204/214 duration not a monster but enough. It has 10.5/1 flat tops, new double roller chain, high pressure pump, flat tappet lifters, all new rockers with new hardware. 1968 edelbrock sp2p spread bore with a rebuilt 580 cfm quadrajet from a 68vette. If I had to guess 300 to 325 Hp. I might get a set 1.6 ratio rockers if I want a little more.

Nice, it sounds like it will be snappy, anytime you have more than 1 Hp per cubic inch you are doing good.

[Metaldoc]

Plumbed in the PCV, vacuum advance and fuel all done and I painted them black to keep my theme. I like it.

[Metaldoc]

The good news is there is lots of room to work in here but I missed the memo to remove the rivets in the tranny x-member from the three speed before the frame is painted or assembled. I'm glad I have air and an air chisel which make the job very doable.

[Metaldoc]

Got the cross member out in just 2 pieces and put some paint over the spots. While it dries I pulled the old manual box off and installed the rebuilt power box. It was a good thing I added the cut out for the new box when I did the frame work, so just bolt it in.

[Aberdare]

Great looking build so far, Doc...

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by Aberdare

Great looking build so far, Doc...

Thanks man I gotta get my but in motion to get this all done for May 1, that's when the insurance switches back over to the road.

[Xeen]

Smart thinking to plan ahead and modify the frame for a future power steering upgrade.
At the rate you are going you will hit that May 1 deadline with time to spare.

[Metaldoc]

The box I picked up for free and is just the right size.

[Metaldoc]

Working on the hydraulic clutch linkage to have the master in the factory hole where the clutch rod went out. Going to try and cantilever the output shaft. I have the basic concept and getting about 2 inches of plunger travel so I think I'm in the ball park now.

[Metaldoc]

After some design changes and orientation changes I think it might work through the factory hole without modifying the fire wall. I need to make remake it all with proper material yet but proof of concept seams doable. Got to use my blue flame adjustable again to bend the plate. I used the holes on the fire wall in the support bracing for the brakes, just drilled through.

[Metaldoc]

Finished up as far as I can on the clutch linkage till I try it with the tranny in. Made up a template for tranny inspection cover since I can't find one. Now to transfer the template to steel and add some stiffening ribs of some kind.

[Metaldoc]

After a bit of cutting, grinding and drilling I have a cover plate.

[cornerstone]

Is there a Doctor in the house? Metaldoc to the rescue!

[Metaldoc]

Made up a new set of one inch lowering blocks to replace my two inch blocks, raise it back up an inch. So nice having a sand blast cabinet, make my pieces, toss them in the baster, hang them up and sprayed all in one shot. I've probably got 100 hours in the blaster and was the best money I spent. I had to blast and repaint the spark plug shields to match all black hardware.

[Metaldoc]

Sucks to find out after that I was using the wrong starter to make the cover plate. So on to plan "B" and just move the hole. It could have been worse if I already painted it and had to cut it up.

[Advanced Design]

The starter plate fab is a good idea. I needed one for a project and couldn’t find the right one.....some reason I never thought of making one.